Enter the Matrix
Enter the Matrix
Odyssey to expand with nacho concept at Lincoln Center; how to reinvent your bar every three months; José's celebrates 50; My Cellar Wine Bar opens + more food & drink news
Odyssey Gastropub’s owners Jenny and Tyler Sherman (who are Side Dish Dozen members) are ready for their next big journey via another restaurant concept. The two had prior expanded to create The Bench in south downtown, but opted to close it in mid 2021 after three years in business. Now, they’ve started work inside the spot formerly hosting The Roswell at the Lincoln Center, with a plan to open Nacho Matrix around mid June, tentatively.
Playful tagline: “Nacho typical Mexican restaurant.”
“We won’t be serving only Mexican nachos,” says Jenny, “but also plates like bánh mì nachos and Italian nachos — plays on all types of cuisines, on nachos.” And not always corn chip nachos, but wonton nachos and other types that remain in development with Odyssey’s Executive Chef Andrew Borek. “The ‘Matrix’ part is kind of a sushi-style menu, with the different kinds of chips, or you can get a lettuce bowl, with choice of proteins and sauces and toppings for a build-your-own,” she says.
She says Nacho Matrix will be friendly to all dietary restrictions and include ample vegan options. It’s uncertain at this time (due in-part to very limited storage on site) if the eatery will venture into other entrées of any sort, but they are planning some apps and to serve pozole daily. They envision fast service with a focus on quick to-go for neighboring Goat Patch Brewing patrons and folks on the move. To that end, they’re going to offer both table service and an order-and-pay-by-phone option to be texted when you’re food’s up.
Expect a full bar with high-quality tequilas and some non-traditional margaritas, plus a few to-be-determined beers on tap. And they’re working on a cocktail list to pair with the eats.
I ask Jenny “why nachos?” and she says her family orders nachos a lot when they go out and find it an easy-to-share item and “a great plate for people to gather around while having cocktails with friends.” While there’s taco spots galore, she feels nachos often get treated as a throwaway item on menus. “We feel like they deserve to be the focus.” She shares an investor prospectus of sorts with me (a lengthy outlining of their vision) and the line that stands out to me is: “Nacho Matrix envisions revolutionizing the nacho experience, transforming this ubiquitous appetizer into a culinary masterpiece.”
They’ve had this concept in the their back pocket, seeking the right space, for 10 years, she says. I inquire what makes the Lincoln Center feel right, and she says it’s partly the “funky school” vibe plus industrial feel to their unit, with exposed ceilings and concrete floors. “It’s the right atmosphere to match theme.”
Digression: It’s worth noting that my former review of The Roswell in the Indy is still among the top 3 most talked about stories of my food writing career. People still bring it up with me today. It wasn’t a favorable review. That eatery lasted four years and closed at the end of 2023.
Use your Allusion
Our latest tap&table episode is live, with Ryan and I sitting down inside Allusion Speakeasy (currently set to look like Monica’s kitchen from the TV show Friends) to chat with co-owners Inez and Sean Fitzgerald and co-owner/chef Mark Henry. We find out how they manage to re-stage their bars, both located inside Wobbly Olive locations, every three months to create elaborate, theme-driven experiences for drinkers and diners. We also talk about past failures — “we’ve closed more places than we’ve opened” Sean says — and how the partnership we see today took shape. And, something I’m pretty sure you won’t see elsewhere in the marketplace: They’ve focused on lowering prices across the board without compromising quality, to better position themselves as a regular destination versus only a special-occasion spot. Hear it all from their mouths and give us a listen — and make sure to make it to the end (or fast forward if you must, and seek to break our hearts) to watch Sean sip from a nipple mug in slow motion. It’s a tribute to Chandler’s third nipple, or “nubbin” — so I’m told, because I never watched the show — and you too can drink from said mug when you visit Allusion this month. Also, mark your calendar for May 16, 6-9 p.m., for my next Sip with Schnip event, held this month at the Wobbly Olive downtown (next to Four by Brother Luck and Josh & John’s), as the company is my featured Side Dish Dozen member for May.
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Join us for the next Sip with Schnip at The Wobbly Olive Downtown, with a special Rooster’s Ramen revival
We’re still finalizing details, but mark your calendar for Thursday, May 16 (anytime 6-9 p.m.) for the next Sip with Schnip pop-up at The Wobbly Olive Downtown. What I do know is we’ll have cocktail specials (at a happy hour-like price) and a retro Rooster’s House of Ramen special menu for one night only. Stop by for a bite (er, um, slurp) and sip and good times with good people. I hope to see you there.
Ranch Foods Direct — Chuck roast Seco de Carne
“This dish is about the building of flavors. We build layers of flavor, and once we have a strong foundation, we complete the dish.” That’s Chef Luis Pagan detailing part of his Seco de Carne recipe, our featured May collaboration recipe with Ranch Foods Direct and The French Kitchen. Chef Pagan is one of the culinary instructors at TFK, and in this short video I shot of him preparing the dish for my photo shoot, he explains the dish’s history, preparation and technique. Give it a quick watch and stop by one of RFD’s retail markets for key ingredients you’ll need to make this dish, which is definitely something you should do sometime this month. Consider it culinary and cultural exploration, with a delicious payoff.
José’s celebrates a half century
José Muldoons is celebrating the big 50 with anniversary week specials May 14-18. That includes half price tacos on Tuesday, a charity day on Wednesday, half-off margaritas on Thursday, 74 cent canned beers on Friday and a Bristol Brewing promotion on Saturday alongside live music from Craig Walters, who performed at Jose’s “back in the early days” according to co-owner Luke Travins.
I spoke to Travins earlier this week. Now 54, he started with José’s parent company Concept Restaurants (which also owns Mackenzie’s Chop House) in 1991, having moved from New York to train at the Olympic Training Center, competing in team handball. He says in that era most athletes worked around town in bars and restaurants because their $200/month stipends weren’t enough to get by on. So he took a job as a doorman and moved his way up to serving and bartending before taking the GM position (and beginning to buy into an ownership stake) at The Ritz in 1996. (The Ritz has since become Colorado Craft/The Archives but Concept still owns the space.)
Travins’ partners at Concept are Frank Day and Dave Lux. “Frank is about to turn 93 and he’s still doing deals,” says Travins, explaining that Day had come down from Boulder in the early 70s, eyeing the Springs as a good market to enter at the time. Lux, now in his early 70s, was working for Day at the time as a carpenter, but he entered the industry and also worked his way up from dishwashing and bartending to a management and later ownership role. He moved to the Springs after graduating CU Boulder to run José’s for Day.
So, amazingly, these 50 years later, the founding crew is still in action, even though these days they mainly oversee their real estate holdings. That includes the former José’s East location off Powers Boulevard, which they elected to close in January of this year. “Post-Covid we were really strong, but 2023 was really soft for us,” says Travins. “We know what was working out there and what wasn’t.” He says they were regularly receiving unsolicited offers to buy the property and decided “it was the right time to pivot.” They’re under contract to sell, currently, but he’s not yet able to disclose who the buyer is and whether it will remain a food/drink establishment.
But back to the downtown OG location — which, fun fact, has been renovated and expanded three times since 1974, once to overtake a former bookstore in the front — I ask Travins how the menu has changed over the decades. He says it has evolved “to become more Tex-Mex focused, whereas 50 years ago it was more Southwestern, blue corn focused… as trends changed, we changed with them.”
The longtime bestsellers have been cheese enchiladas, ground beef tacos and fajitas. Travins adds “we’re known for our chile con queso.” Modern adaptations have included the addition five or so years ago of vegan items like a popular vegan green chile. I inquire if any recipes/dishes remain untouched after a half century and he says both the queso and cheese enchiladas with red sauce are intact from day one, as well as the Torito (now called the ‘74 Torito to honor the founding), which is a loaded burrito smothered in warm salsa.
On the bar side, the margaritas too have adapted to the marketplace over the years, but the Alamo remains an OG marg that calls for Grand Marnier and Cointreau, plus Sauza Conmemorativo as the base tequila currently. “We have tried some of the craftier tequilas but they don’t sell like the big brands… Mezcals haven’t really caught on for us either; we carry some, but don’t feature them. He says they use a go-to sweet and sour mix, though some cocktails have a fresh juice approach.
Given the predominance of newer Mexican restaurants leaning heavier on the craft side, I ask Travins about José’s ethos today, as a town grandfather (opening just a few years after Señor Manuel on N. Nevada Ave.). “We’re very large, and high volume,” he says. “Our menu items have to be able to be produced quickly and efficiently. If you want some craftier things, we have some options, like carne asada dishes and some high end, more hand-crafted margs. But we aren’t a 15-table, mixologist-driven type place. That’s not what our consumer base desires.”
My last question: What’s the significance of turning 50, how does it feel?
“We are looking to have this celebration with the community — this isn’t for us,” he says. “We’re slashing prices for the week because we want people to celebrate with us. We want to say hi to people we haven’t seen in a while. This is about goodwill for our community, and downtown. Our excitement mirrors that.”
My Cellar Wine Bar opens off Briargate
My Cellar Wine Bar recently soft opened near Dave & Buster’s and will celebrate a grand opening the weekend of May 17-19 with the launch of Saturday and Sunday brunch hours from 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. They continue regular hours afterward, which is till midnight Saturday and 6 p.m. Sunday. (Otherwise they’re open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Tuesdays-Fridays, also extending to midnight on Fridays.)
Sheryl and Eric Medeiros are behind the business, hailing from Washington and California most recently, prior to moving to the Springs in 2022 for their son’s final year at the Air Force Academy. Sheryl says they were seeking a spot to retire and fell in love with the Springs during past visits, feeling embraced by the community. But, “retirement didn’t suit us well,” she jokes. “We traveled for a year and got bored, and knew we needed a project.”
To the focal product first, “we have carefully curated our wine list, prioritizing quality over quantity,” she says. “We’re pouring 30 wines by the glass now. Our library by-the-bottle will grow over time, with some high-end choices. We intend to refresh the wine list regularly with favorites and new discoveries.” Expect popular International wines but also some exclusive-to-Colorado labels from California and Washington due to their past connections living there. One winemaker is Efesté, who’re personal friends.
“Our path to opening wine bar unconventional,” she says. “Both of us started as lawyers, but Eric became a stay at home dad… when our boys were in high school, he started working in wineries near our house and developed a love of connecting with people and pouring wine. We’re both from Hawaii, born and raised. Our whole families are there. It’s a culture so rich with hospitality and community values… centered around gatherings with food and drink and celebration. That followed us to the mainland… Our love of wine has grown over our 30-year marriage. We decided it felt really natural for us to open a place that serves exceptional wines in a beautiful space and provide a welcoming experience. It’s an extension of our home — how you would feel if you came to a party at our house.”
In addition to the vino, My Cellar carries only a limited beer and spirits selection by design. Four taps are dedicated to Colorado beers, currently from Red Leg and Tivoli. And they’ve started the booze selection with whiskies that carry a wine connection, such as a rye whiskey from Traverse City that’s aged in Cabernet Franc barrels.
For eats, Sheryl says their small menu has been designed to pair with the wines (as one might expect). She notes flatbreads, panini creations and charcuterie boards as well as sides like fruit, soups and mixed greens. She calls a blended cheese panini created by one of their employees, with cheese also melted on the outside, “a showstopper.” Enjoy one on their patio with unobstructed peak views.
Bites and Bits
• The New York Times featured Colorado Springs in its 36 Hours travel series on May 9, recommending the following food and drink places among other sightseeing, etc.:
Cheers to my Side Dish Dozen members who made the list: Brother Luck, Bristol and Blue Star Group entities at Ivywild School.
• Sliced Bagels & More, a new bagel sandwich spot in Fountain, opened on May 6. They posted on Facebook that same day to acknowledge “some hiccups” said they would close until May 10 to “iron out some kinks so we can better serve you.”
• Urban Steam has closed. A note posted on their Facebook page on May 1 reads: “Due to the current economic and business climate, increasing homeless population, staffing struggles and health reasons, we will be closing our doors on April 1st 2024. Thank you, Colorado Springs, for 13 years of support and love!” Commenters did notice the erroneous date and some expressed sympathies, while one made sure to link to past reporting in the Indy relating to the owner’s arrest for abusive behavior. (The Indy’s archive remains defunct, so a Google page is the source link.)
• The Colorado Restaurant Association Pikes Peak Chapter — the folks behind the upcoming Taste of Pikes Peak on July 18 — just released its inaugural Taste of Pikes Peak Dining Guide. This is the “by restaurants, for restaurants” compendium I told you about here back in mid March. At the time, PPCRA co-chair Rebecca Taraborelli of Rasta Pasta said, “We are creating the dining guide that we wished existed for our restaurants… informative for visitors, but also exciting for locals who love discovering restaurants they haven’t tried before.” You’ll also find the guide for free all over spots around town — mostly at hotels and motels, but also welcome centers and at the COS airport. Crack the cover and I’ll be there to greet you (thanks to some generous ad space). I’ll also be co-judging this year’s Taste of Pikes Peak again, so I do hope to see you downtown then.
• Downtown Partnership got its own Josh & John's ice cream flavor named City Center Swirl. It’s a coffee porter ice cream (made with Storybook Brewing’s Java Dragon) that features a fudge swirl. It will only be available for a limited time, and only at the downtown location.
• Visit Colorado Springs’ Crafts & Drafts Passport for 2024 will be available on May 15. Revisit that above link after that date to nab it for free.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Odyssey Gastropub: New on the menu: spring pea carbonara with seared gnocchi, crispy bacon lardons, English peas, onions, fresh Parmesan and cured egg yolk.
• Rasta Pasta: In honor of Mother's Day weekend, give Rasta Pasta a shout out as a Mom-owned and -operated business. Rebecca Taraborelli is known to the Rasta fam as “Mama Bear” and takes tremendous pride in her extended restaurant family.
• Edelweiss: We’ll have special pastry items this weekend. Among the many: Strawberry Mousse Heart, Raspberry Mousse Heart, Chocolate Mousse Bomb, Apple Strudel, Gluten Free Strawberry Mousse.
• Kangaroo Coffee: Hopping times at Kangaroo. We're brewing (a lot) of coffee for UCHealth Staff Appreciation Week; hydrating runners at CMZ Run to the Shrine race, supporting HSPPR Fur Ball, serving Switchbacks Soccer fans at Armed Forces Night and hosting Not a Thrift Store school bus at our Hillside Coffee House. And that's just next week! We also have a really tasty Iced Coconut Americano as one of our featured drinks.
• T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila: Tequila Ocho Tasting, 6 p.m., May 15. $25 gets an ounce pour of the Plata, Reposado and Añejo plus a special surprise pour. Chef Dustin Archuleta creates small plate food pairings for each course. This is the third variation of our monthly tequila tasting, where we feature a different brand, and post-tasting, we offer $25 flights of that vendor until the next tasting.
• Bristol Brewing Company: Come down to Bristol at 1 p.m. on May 18 for a casual group run/ trail ride hosted by the Trail’s End Trailblazers, and get a free pint at the Beers & Gear Outdoor Expo when you get back. Beers & Gear goes from 2-5 p.m.
• The Carter Payne: On draft right now: Dragonfruit-Serrano sour; lavender butterfly pea saison; Juicy Brut IPA + more than a dozen others. Try the bestselling Frost Ranch lamb and kimchi patty melt with Swiss on Russian black rye off the newly released spring menu.
• Blue Star Group: May is filled with reasons to celebrate. Whether it's Mother's Day, a graduation, or the arrival of warm weather. Whatever you're throwing a party for, don't forget dessert. Gold Star Bakery has pies, cookies and tasty bars like carmelitas, brownies, and lemon bars! Order early to ensure you're good to go for your events.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Calamansi Wheat and Dragonfruit Wheat releases, May 10, 5-11 p.m. Second Saturday Firkin release: Red Hop Mama, May 11, 2-8 p.m. Mother’s Day Beermosas & Brunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., May 12. American Craft Beer Week Off-flavor sensory panel, May 13, 6-8 p.m.; tickets here. Bleating Heart Night, May 14, 5-9 p.m.; $1 from each pint sold benefits the Pikes Peak Roller Derby.
• The French Kitchen: It’s not too late to grab your Mother’s Day goodies. We’re open Saturday (but NOT Sunday). We’re celebrating National Quiche Lorraine Day with 20% off the item on May 18; the holiday’s on May 20 technically, but we’re closed. Mark your calendar for our 7-year anniversary party on June 1, with demos, free samples, crepes (preorder here) and a big sale.
• Red Gravy: Serving the best lunch deal downtown: the Red Gravy Mix. Choose a soup or salad and any half portion of pasta for just $14.99.
• Four by Brother Luck: Classes at the Studio are selling out quickly; book now for Fried chicken and homemade hot sauce (online), May 20, 6 p.m., $30. And Tuna poke and coconut mango pudding on May 25, 6 p.m. at The Studio, $75. Not Your Basic Brunch at Eleven18 with chef Beto Reyes, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., weekends. Live DJ, pup-friendly patio, dishes like duck carnitas and waffles. Reservations encouraged here.
• Ascent Beverage: This week we are featuring Robb's Red Rumm at Front Range Barbeque. Go for the Peakside Piña Colada made with Robb’s Red Rumm, cream of coconut, pineapple juice, OJ and fresh lime. Damn it tastes good with the house Frontier Combo plate.
• Wobbly Olive: Check out Chef Mark Henry’s new spring menu, featuring items like Moroccan eggplant and stracciatella flatbread and whipped feta and roasted red pepper appetizers. Also visit Tipperary Cocktail Parlor to check out the new spring cocktail menu designed by award-winning bartenders.
Upcoming events
• May 11: SoCo Collab Frost Fest at Bear Creek Regional Park. 1-5 p.m., $30.
• May 13: An Agave Adventure master class with Del Maguey’s Valerie Alvarado and Codigo’s VP Brice Erichsen at 503W. 5:30-9:30 p.m.; $70-$130. Live DJ, anAsian-Mexican infused taco/nacho bar, curated cocktails, and optional “small agave themed tattoos in-person” from area artists.
• May 16: Third Thursday Sip with Schnip at The Wobbly Olive Downtown. 6-9 p.m. Cocktail specials, a retro Rooster’s House of Ramen menu for one night only + more.
• May 17: The Chuckwagon 719 grand opening at 6453 Omaha Blvd., noon.
• May 19: Paella on the Patio season kickoff at Tapateria. Seatings at noon, 2:30 and 5 p.m. $39 includes a wine, sangria or beer.
• May 21: MIRASOL, Looking at the Sun Colorado Springs film premiere at UCCS; 5:30 p.m. Locally-sourced food by Chef Ed Salazar at opening reception; panel discussion with filmmaker Ben Knight following the screening, plus desserts, cocktails and after-party live Latin Jazz show. $125 tickets benefit the Palmer Land Conservancy.
Parting shot(s)
Last week I repped my new Side Dish T-shirt designs, so this week I’ll highlight my on-brand batch of new fedoras. (Not for sale, unlike the Tees.) I’m going for bright colors, and so far I’m getting more compliments than cringes. Though folks could just be being nice. When will the pink, green and purple ones come out? Stick around…
Schniper, I dig the blog & content, it's exactly what I'm looking for here in Springs.
I'm having a hard time reconciling two reviews: the former The Roswell & that of Nacho Matrix.
What?... a menu oriented around nachos isn't "jejune"?
Bahn Mi nachos? Italian nachos? Ahi Tuna nachos? - novel, but I can hardly keep a straight face.