Yes please
Yes please
Por Favor Tacos & Tragos opens on Centennial; Tap&Table interviews Westfax, our newest brewery; I visit my first Buc-ee's + more food & drink news
Last week, Everardo and Maria Galvan fulfilled a goal that was 16-years in the making: opening their own restaurant. Or re-opening, in a way. They’d operated an eatery in Lancaster, Calif. for only a couple years before the 2008 recession hit and took them out of the game. Their son Yuriam tells me the goal ever since has been to get back to a family business for themselves.
Enter Por Favor Tacos & Tragos, located at 4657 Centennial Blvd., across the shopping center from Marigold Cafe & Bakery. It’s a narrow space with a mix of bench, booth and table seating, which hosts around five dozen people at capacity. It’s somewhat pink/purple lit from signs (like “forget flowers, buy me tacos”) and otherwise bright from light upholstery and wood tables below gray/blue textured walls. A small rear bar makes margaritas with juices squeezed fresh to order, sans commercial mixes.
Everardo may be recognizable to you if you’ve visited either Miguel’s Mexican Bar & Grill location. He’s still the GM for that outfit, not wanting to leave them in the lurch when he opened Por Favor. Maria is technically the owner here and one of the cooks, while Yuriam (who goes by Yuri and is pictured far left in the photo above) acts as the GM. His siblings help out when they can, like his brother who designed the margarita menu, and his sister, who seats us when we arrive.
“My mom is a fantastic cook who cooked for us at home every day,” says Yuri, adding that California “has some of the best Mexican food anywhere.” He says the family was disappointed when they moved here, feeling like the majority of Mexican spots were virtually all the same. (FWIW that’s something the owners of Zocalo told me last year after their opening, except they were coming from the Chicago area.) With Por Favor, he says they’ve made a conscious effort to make small tweaks and be a little different, with the intent to stand out as something unique.
Examples of that are choosing white corn tortillas versus yellow, and not putting guacamole on all the tacos, he says with a tinge of sarcasm. More direct to some items we order, they offer birria in several forms — as a taco, as quesa-birria — and we hadn’t prior seen anything like their Birria-Burro. It’s a sizable, burrito-like construct but toasted and grill-pressed into a dense brick of delight. It’s stuffed with refried beans, melted asadero cheese and rice in addition to the tender, stewed, dripping-with-juice beef threads. In addition to the side consomé, you get cilantro, white onion choppings and a lime wedge with which to garnish. I’m not saying it entirely reinvents the wheel, but consider it a different delivery mechanism for beloved birria that at least stylizes the dish.
Skipping to dessert for a moment, Por Favor brûlées the classic arroz con leche dish to give it a signature presentation with fresh fruit. We enjoy crunching through the caramelized sugar cap to reach a (pleasantly) more dry version of the typically milkier pudding.
By now you may have tried a Guadalajara-popularized Torta Ahogada (“drowned sandwich” — which Por Favor does serve), but you don’t often see Flautas Ahogadas around the Springs, which are a fine meal opener as crisp chicken tinga tubes soaking in a fantastic, tangy-sour tomatillo sauce that we wanted to mop up every drop of. And we expected pineapple on our pastor taco, totally proficient and nice with a dollop of house aguacate sauce. But we were curious to see how it would play on Por Favor’s Cochinita Pibil as an atypical addition, sauced with an outstanding roasted pineapple-habanero salsa and poppin’ with pickled onions. The answer, in a word: wonderfully. Definitely order this when you go.
Oh, and about those margaritas, which speaks to the “Tragos” part of Por Favor’s name. “Tragos” is slang for alcoholic drinks, and though there’s half a dozen other cocktails on the list (including a Paloma, Mojito and Oaxacan Old Fashioned), the margaritas (made with Exotico blanco) take center stage. You can get flights and some dolled up versions like a Jefe or Diablo, or add/sub mezcal easily. But the main offering is five flavor variants, including guava, mango and strawberry. That leaves the pineapple and cucumber renditions we order, electing to go “picante” (spicy), which earns jalapeño coins and a citrusy, chile-coated rim. Aside from fresh chunks of the pineapple, not a lot of the fruit flavor infuses into the drink, and we later chat with Yuri about that (as he earnestly seeks input in the early days). But the cucumber marg is spot on, super refreshing and simply excellent. We accidentally suck it down in minutes, appreciating how both drinks don’t cloy at all and taste nicely under-sweet (but in balance) compared to much of the wider marketplace.
Anyway, had our meal been notably bumpy or the Galvan family been seemingly unprepared for remote criticism, I wouldn’t include any review-like tone here, so early. But one of my Side Dish readers had texted me earlier in the day basically raving about Por Favor and I’d already seen some other highly encouraging reviews online. So I opted to pop by and dine before seeking an informal interview and introducing myself. Actually, that’s not true: After I asked several questions casually, Yuri suddenly asked if I was Matthew, because my reader had also told him about Side Dish. (Yay! Gold star for Lisa for ambassadorship!) We joke about Yuri being a former car salesman and how that translates to upselling in the dining room. But he says he doesn’t need to really, and we don’t feel an ounce of smarminess during our visit. Quite the opposite: The family is so eager to please and honor Everardo and Maria’s dream for their own place — once again, after all these years — that they’re sincerely gracious and welcoming. Go see for yourself.
Schnip’s pick July: Berkshire pork at Ranch Foods Direct
For July, Executive Chef Dustin Archuleta of Choice Restaurant Concepts (District Elleven, T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila, Bird Tree Cafe) joins Side Dish’s collaboration with Ranch Foods Direct. He offers this wonderful recipe for a seared Berkshire pork chop with ancho honey mustard sauce. Ranch Foods Direct’s Berkshire pork is a heritage breed regarded for its superior intramuscular marbling, which means a lot of flavor on the plate. Stop by either RFD retail market to grab supplies, and mention Side Dish for a 5 percent discount on your entire shopping basket.
Get to know WestFax, the newest brewery in town
Our latest tap&table episode has us visiting the new Westfax Brewing Colorado Springs. We recorded late last month before the outfit threw open the doors, but my cohost Ryan Hannigan returned on July 5 for the soft opening. Make time to get there soon for a pint. Meanwhile, hear how WestFax Brewing Co. owner/founder Anthony Martuscello went from sipping suds from a beer passport program with friends at Cooper’s Seafood House in Scranton, Pa. (insert your favorite The Office reference here) to opening his own spot next to Casa Bonita in Lakewood in 2016. And find out why they opted to expand South to the Springs for their second location.
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Bites and Bits
• Fans of Tokki on the south side of C. Springs will be excited to hear that its owners have opened a new spot at 102 S. Union Ave. along Pueblo’s Riverwalk. It’s called The River Wok (see what they did there?). The Pueblo Chieftain wrote this fine preview, which outlines the Korean, Chinese and Japanese offerings plus a dozen Zodiac-based drinks with playful toppings, such as a piña colada rendition infused with colorful liqueurs and topped with Trix cereal-flecked whipped cream and a plastic bunny toy. (Yep, that’s the Peter Choe I know. Love the guy’s playful energy.)
• Springs Magazine reported last week on Pub Dog’s plans for a new north-end location by year’s end at 5565 Balsam St. (near Dublin and Powers boulevards).
• If you’re daytripping or overnighting soon in the Salida area, check out the newly opened Salida Distillery. Red Gravy GM Johnathan Shankland already stopped by and vouches for the spirits in a text exchange with me. The distillery promotes its mission to care for the environment by both donating proceeds to the Arkansas River Watershed Collaborative and operating with an electric, closed-loop still, for which they’re underway with a solar installation to power it. They also offer tours and tastings (45 minutes, $15) weekly; check their online calendar for details.
• As spotted by a CoS Foodies member, it appears Monica’s Taco Shop will be expanding into the now defunct Arby’s at 331 S. Nevada Ave. — or, as I prefer to remember it, the location of Sencha in the early aughts. That’s where I worked with Chef Brent Beavers, now at The Carter Payne. I must confess it brings me some joy to see a chain spot downtown replaced with a local enterprise, which is essentially what one commenter to the post said. Another said “their nachos are so good!”
• A batch of local breweries just released a collaboration beer in partnership with the Fountain Creek Brewshed Alliance. Each taproom will serve the Flower Eater Honey Lavender Blonde and donate $1 of each pint sold to watershed health initiatives. A beer description posted by participating outfit Voodoo Brewing reads, “Bright floral notes from lavender buds highlight the beer’s refreshing flavor profile, finished with slight sweetness from clover honey and Honey Malts balanced by an approachable bitterness from Cascade and Alora hops. Designed to refresh at 5.8% ABV, this easy-drinking Blonde Ale harmonizes the benefits of clean water in our region, unique flavors of local foliage and the ingenuity of brewers across Southern Colorado.”
• While on the topic of lavender, check out this no-bake, gluten-free lemon lavender cheesecake recipe from my pals over at Season Two Taste. I haven’t made it yet; it just sounds damn good and caught my attention in their latest newsletter, which I recommend signing up for.
I finally went to Buc-ee’s and my life is no different (but how ‘bout them clean bathrooms, hoo boy)
Headed home from a Fourth of July weekend trip north of Fort Collins, I found myself with a good excuse to visit Colorado’s first Buc-ee’s location in Johnstown, not far from the legendary-but-dated Johnson’s Corner Truck Stop, home to absurdly big cinnamon rolls. I’d visited Johnson’s years ago while writing a story for the newspaper; I was doing a ride-along with a long-haul trucker for a day. But then along came Buc-ee’s in mid March of this year, a totally bananas opening day, and lots of media coverage about what newbies need to know about the iconic Texas chain.
I’ve mostly shrugged off the hype of the big Texas brand openings in Colorado in recent years, from Rudy’s to Torchy’s to Whataburger. I never found love for Rudy’s and eventually made it by Torchy’s and yeah, had some good tacos. Though I still have yet to eat at Whataburger — and nothing I’ve seen or smelled at Dallas airports over the years has convinced me I must make the effort. But Buc-ee’s is something I knew I cared to eventually see for myself based on the descriptions of so many friends who adore the place (even if ironically).
Since the whole thing is an oversized shit show of a gas station mini mart on Texas-sized steroids — which is to say a full grocery store-sized place with a stunning line of gas pumps (dozens and dozens) and a wide retail market — I decided to bite off only a little chunk with which to pop my cherry: a small brisket burrito, coffee, and lemon crisp and cinnamon churro mini cookies. Oh, and of course I made a concerted effort to go pee and check out the famously clean bathrooms, with attendants constantly in motion tidying, which live up to their hype I must say.
Anyway, I knew the mini cookies, which aren’t something I normally would buy, were alright (not made with too many artificial ingredients), because a visitor had once brought some to my house following their road trip up through Texas. They make good little coffee dunkers and quick pops of sugar. The batch-brewed coffee proved surprisingly respectable and good — more of a medium roast, not burned or bitter — and the complimentary array of milk choices (regular, half and half, oat, almond, flavored creamers) impressed at the wide self-serve counter. The brisket too was of commendable quality for the setting and I can see where it’s easy to make a whole meal out of a stop here from the diverse deli options.
So yeah, I get the Buc-ee’s hype, and it does deliver. When the alternative is every other roadside gas station your memory can conjure and its typically scary bathroom and limited marketplace, it’s really no contest. That is if you’re already driving by. Don’t venture over two hours away just to say you’ve seen a Buc-ee’s. (Tell me you have something better to do in your spare time.) Wait for the right moment, when it’s natural, and you see that big beaver face on a highway sign on the horizon, right when you realize that yeah, you do kinda have to pee soon. Then be dazzled. Or completely overwhelmed. Or both.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Red Gravy + Kangaroo Coffee + Ascent Beverage: We’re collaborating at the July 18 Taste of Pikes Peak and presenting together at the Side Dish booth! Red Gravy’s serving a Red-Eye Gravy-inspired penne pasta with espresso, Italian sausage, roasted cauliflower and kale. Enjoy it with a Robb’s Red-Eye Cream cocktail sample featuring Kangaroo coffee and Robb’s Red Rumm. (Also catch a sparkly blueberry margarita in the VIP area made with Billy’s Tequila and Bitter & Glitter.)
• Bristol Brewing Company: See you for a taste of our Mexican Lager collab with Metric plus World Peace Death Ray Cold IPA at Taste of Pikes Peak. Also on Friday, Father Bacon and the Sizzle plays Bristol’s Music in the Yard, 6-8 pm.
• Odyssey Gastropub: Our chef, Andrew Borek, will present for Odyssey at Taste of Pikes Peak. He’s serving a smoked pork pave with peach bourbon bbq, pickled radishes and local micro daikon. Come get a taste!
• T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila: Our monthly Tequila Tasting Series continues from 6-8 p.m. July 17 with Tequila Komos. $25 gets you a 1-ounce pour from three tequila varietals plus snack bites from Chef Dustin Archuleta. Tickets here.
• Edelweiss: Stiegl Grapefruit Radler from Austria is on tap for summer. Clean, crisp and only 2-percent ABV for a refreshing low-alcohol option made with real cane sugar (vs. high fructose corn syrup). Sip a pint on our award-winning, dog-friendly patio.
• The French Kitchen: Try our new Bastille Day Fresh Fruit Tarts; order ahead for July 13 pickup. Also take home our frozen, 7-inch Quiche Lorraine for 20% off through July 17; it feeds two to four people. Catch our Café Happy Hours, 3-5 p.m., Tuesdays-Fridays, and get 10 percent off purchases.
• Blue Star Group: Gold Star Bakery has released two new summer pies: Key Lime and Strawberry Rhubarb. Due to popular demand, GSB is doing a special run of Key Lime Pies for pickup on Friday, July 19. Orders must be received by Saturday, July 13 for this batch, so don't wait, and order now!
• Goat Patch Brewing: Deaf Night Out, 5-11 p.m., July 12. Second Saturday Firkin tapping of our cherry limeade shandy, 2 p.m., July 13, $5 pints. Bleating Heart Night, 5-9 p.m., July 16; $1 from each pint sold benefits Bakhita Mountain Home.
• The Carter Payne: Serving brunch Saturdays and Sundays, 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (Strawberry ricotta French toast, anyone?) On draft right now from Local Relic Artisan Ales: Mushroom Quad, Lime Table Saison, Mango Sour Red.
• Wobbly Olive: Half-priced cocktails from our full menu during happy hours, 4-6 p.m., Mondays through Fridays, at both locations. Pair a drink with one of Chef Mark Henry’s starters, like the Moroccan eggplant and burrata flatbread.
• Four by Brother Luck: Offering four-whiskey flights in addition to our fine cocktails, like the Banana Belt, made with Laphroaig 10 year scotch, Ancho Reyes, Kronan's Swedish Punsch, banana liqueur and Jamaican bitters.
• Rasta Pasta: Come in for the staff favorite, the Spicy Jammin’ pasta, with tricolor rotini, shrimp, basil, spicy jerk, garlic and onion in red wine tomato sauce. Make it vegan, veg or GF if you wanna.
Upcoming events
• July 13: Banning Lewis Ranch Brewfest. Noon to 4 p.m. in Vista Park. Enjoy samplings from area breweries and distilleries, plus food trucks, live music and kids activities.
• July 18: Taste of Pikes Peak outside the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum. 6-9 p.m. (5 p.m. VIP). Food and drink samplings galore, and I’ll be co-judging again this year. Proceeds benefit the Pikes Peak Chapter of the Colorado Restaurant Association. Want to win two tickets from me? Just comment on this week’s newsletter (say anything!) and be 1) a subscriber and 2) following Side Dish on Insta and Facebook. That’s it. Good luck.
• July 20: Metric Brewing Six Year Anniversary Celebration. Noon onward. Special beer releases, two food trucks and merch giveaways.
• July 21: Inefable Italian Takeover. 5-9 p.m., $140 for six wine-paired courses.
• July 24: Sip with Schnip at Bristol Brewing Co., 6-8 p.m. in the Barrel Room. Get a pulled pork sandwich from Spark BBQ + a beer + a piece of bourbon pecan pie (from Gold Star Bakery) for just $16.
• July 25: Tails, Tunes & Tastes at the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. 6-9:30 p.m., $64.75 includes unlimited small plate samples plus two drink tickets. (Tickets also available for Aug. 29 and Sept. 26 dates.)
*Support our local farmers markets. Use this online guide to find locations.
Parting shot(s)
I published last week’s newsletter ahead of July 4th because I, too, wanted to enjoy the long holiday weekend. I kicked off my festivities at the Switchbacks game, heading onto the field after the 1-0 win to watch the overhead fireworks show. Then I headed up north to visit friends the following day, and we caught another firework show near the town of Red Feather Lakes, above Hiawatha Lake, on July 6. I know you might have firework-photo fatigue by now, but I think the few pics below turned out pretty cool and worth sharing. Hope you had a good 4th, whatever you got into, or blew up.
A group of us went to Tacos and Tragos yesterday for a co-worker's birthday lunch - they were so, so nice! And they accommodated a large group without hesitation. Food was great (I had three tacos, only ate one, the other two will be for dinner tonight, mmmmm). Those around me who got the enchilada plate and the birria tacos were raving. I didn't have one but I heard nothing but great things about the fresh margs, too - two people didn't order a drink at first, but then ordered a marg after hearing (and/or tasting) how good they were. We will definitely be coming back - especially since working off of GOG like we do means that the only restaurant choices nearby are bleah fast-food chains. Excited to have a quick, approachable, delicious, and affordable option so close!
A friend and I stopped by Westfax on Tuesday for a swifty - very friendly people and FINALLY a great outdoor space in town!! Beer was...fine...just not noteworthy.
We've already got Metric's anniversary party on the calendar - it's our favorite brewery and we've been to every single party since and including opening day. Can't wait!
Cheers!
Beautifully descriptive writing.