Passing the torch
Passing the torch
Olympic Museum's Flame Café celebrates international flavors for 2024 Paris games; make magical cocktails with Bitter and Glitter; Burnt Toast expands north + more food & drink news
The Paris Summer Olympics run July 26 to Aug. 11 and the Paralympic Games go Aug. 28 to Sept. 8. With a Paris Summer Fest Celebration being hosted daily during the whole duration at the United State Olympic & Paralympic Museum (USOPM) downtown — with live streaming on a 40-foot-tall screen in the Atrium — I figured it would be a good time to check in on happenings at the museum’s Flame Café. The eatery will be taking online or in-person orders to deliver food to the watch-party area, and it and USOPM will also be the host site for Downtown Summer Fest on July 27.
USOPM hits its four-year anniversary on July 30 and Flame Café just recently launched a fresh menu under newly appointed Executive Chef Thomas Hartwell. He replaces prior EC Will Halterman, who’s now Chef de Cuisine at Jax Fish House. And for those of you who know respected industry consultant Travis Blaney, who’s been the GM for food contract holder SSA Group at USOPM, he’s swapped sites with April Hall, who was SSA’s GM at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. So, as you can see, lots of updates and fresh energy at the venue.
I stopped by just before the Fourth of July holiday to sample some new menu items with Hartwell and SSA Group Area Chef John Kuespert, who’d I’d also recently caught up with at the Zoo’s awesome Moonlight on the Mountain event. My first question to both chefs, after hearing the condensed version of Hartwell’s deep resumé and experience, was, “Um, I can’t help but ask, but aren’t you overqualified for this role?”
You see, among many other appointments over a 35-year career, Hartwell was Executive Chef at Garden of the Gods Resort and Club (2019-2023), he managed dining services for UCLA at one point and has worked for Ritz Carlton, Hilton and Tahoe and Napa resorts. So, after a moment of awkward laughter, Kuespert, as the hiring chef, said, “We like to stack the bench.”
Hartwell’s own answer was more profound and personal. “This is from the heart,” he began, pausing for a breath. “This job gives me the opportunity of time.”
I later think of the irony of him saying that literally within eyesight of the Lake Placid “Miracle on Ice” scoreboard, visible through a USOPM window from Flame Café’s dining room. Time in a game expiring. Time in life expiring.
“I’m now home every night for dinner with my wife,” Hartwell continues. “I have two days off a week. There’s personal time in my life now that I never had in the past, when I was so absorbed in whatever I was doing. You give up everything you ever cared for in pursuit of that next award, that next good writeup. I never had any time — to go fly fishing or make bird houses. I got to a point in my life when I realized it doesn’t have to be the that way. You can find a company like SSA and bosses like John that feel the same way.”
Kuespert too commends SSA for promoting work-life balance and says “we almost work a nine-to-five chef’s job — it’s unheard of in the industry.”
If all this reads like talented chefs winding down and starting to slowly ride off into the sunset with easy, cherry kitchen gigs, and you’re thinking they’ve resigned themselves to hotdogs, popcorn and concession candy, then think again. With said stacked bench, these spots punch above their weight. SSA prides itself on a more-gourmet approach to food and drink at the tourist spots they manage. And with proper time, versus being constantly hurried and pressed, comes the ability to get more creative.
Hartwell, with spare time to do it, says he’s excited to reengage with the American Culinary Federation Pikes Peak Chapter and believes in the difference that can make in propelling our local food culture forward. “I think Springs is just ready to explode,” he says. “While the food hasn’t fully matured yet, enough chefs who care enough will make a huge impact on the Front Range.”
Back to the Flame Café, and what you’ll find on the current menu if you drop by during the the Summer Olympics celebration, it’s an approachable mix of starters, sandwiches, pizzas and bowls, all internationally inspired, as one might expect from an eatery attached to an Olympics museum in Olympic City USA. Hartwell tells me it gives him more range to play than in most conceptualized restaurants with more strict thematics. At Flame, he can put Peking duck confit pancakes on the same menu as London fish and chips and a Vancouver greens salad and tie disparate flavors together through the researched storytelling of various Olympic host cities throughout the decades and cultural foods eaten there. “It’s made me think about the food in a different way,” he says.
One of his favorite examples and items on his new menu is the Mexico City Pambazo, a ciabatta torta sandwich composed with chorizo, potatoes, guajillo salsa, guacamole and crema. It’s a delightful bite, with light, earthy chile spice and fresh lettuce and tomato garnish. The ciabatta bread doesn’t get soggy, which is a liberty Hartwell took in choosing it over more traditional breads utilized. His menu is definitely more inspired-by and personalized as opposed to trying to nail exact foreign platings right on the head. After all, he and Kuespert reiterate that SSA’s mission to remain approachable and not-challenging to guests while balancing that consideration with room to play and be gourmet. The challenge to a chef of course is restraining their natural tendency to get wild and go for gold. Hartwell poses the conundrum as “what can we do that’s truly unique but also has popular appeal?”
A tight, three-person team at Flame Café invites better collaboration, he notes, and he’s able to do more teaching with the younger chefs. He says they’re making roughly 90 percent of their menu from scratch — “yeah, we don’t make our own French fries,” he confesses. But they make all their own pizza dough by hand, kneading it and taking the de-mechanized steps necessary to bring pies to life. He jokes that everyone’s developed some pretty stout baker’s arms already. His crew also developed its own flour mix — half AP and half Caputo — to achieve Hartwell’s vision of perfect pizza dough texture. He’s looking for a crisp exterior and tender but toothsome interior with the ideal pull.
They also make their own bao buns, rather than buying the ghostly white commercial ones, which Hartwell feels have no flavor and in fact soak up too much of the flavor of what’s put inside it. He decided to put buttermilk in his to add both flavor and richness, plus a faint sourness that complements the acidity of pickled veggies on his char siu Hong Kong Bao Buns — served as a trio in a bamboo basket. “If you’re gonna wrap something in something, have it bring something to the party,” he advises. These are a go-for appetizer, as are the aforementioned duck confit pancakes that are crêpe like and get a spicy mayo dip.
Something else perhaps new-to-you to try is the Tanghulu dessert, which is fresh fruit coated in sugar to become a natural hard candy. The appeal in China and wider Asia, where it’s a popular street food, is the crunch effect, called an “ASMR moment” by this writer. Like a Jolly Rancher, expect it to stick to your teeth; don’t tell your dentist about this one.
In celebration of the games ahead, Flame Café also has some French-inspired specials like a Nicoise Salad. Hartwell has also put the Paris Pizza on the menu that’s topped with Swiss and goat cheeses, ham and green olives. He says it’s the trendiest, most popular pizza around Paris these days. When I try it, I can see why. It’s got the tang and funk of the combined cheeses plus briny and salty elements from the ham and olives, making for a rich, complex bite.
The chefs emphasize vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and customizable options on the menu to welcome everyone. They’re trying to keep prices affordable too, with 14-inch pizzas for $13, $12-$15 burgers and sandwiches that include chips or fries, $12-$14 salads and such, an $8 tap cocktail from Blackhat Distillery, $7 wines on tap and $8 beers. (Okay, the beers feel a couple bucks high for lunch pricing to me.) Most of all, they want people to know that Flame Café is always open to the public regardless of museum attendance. “Walk down here and enjoy one of the best views in downtown — arguably the best,” says Hartwell.
July Schnip’s pick at Ranch Foods Direct: Berkshire pork
This month for Side Dish’s collaboration with Ranch Foods Direct we’re promoting this awesome recipe for seared Berkshire pork chops with ancho honey mustard sauce. It was created for us by Executive Chef Dustin Archuleta of Choice Restaurant Concepts (District Elleven, T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila, Bird Tree Cafe). Since actions speak louder than words (sometimes), here’s a short video of Archuleta topping the pork with his ancho honey mustard sauce for our photo shoot last month. Watch it. Make the dish. Thank us later. Cheers!
Five questions with Bitter and Glitter creator and local bartender Tim Chapman
1) Who are you and what's Bitter and Glitter?
I’m Tim Chapman, owner and operator of Bitter and Glitter, full-time father of two children and bartender at some establishment or another around town. — possibly downtown soon! Bitter and Glitter is creativity in a bottle. It's a cocktail bitters product designed by bartenders for bartenders. Tantalizing not only your taste buds but also your eyes and nose by using bright vivid colors and smells as well.
2) How'd you come up with the idea? Or maybe said another way, why does the world need glittered bitters?
Bitter and Glitter was created out of necessity. Bitters adds depth and flavor to a cocktail. As the name leads you to believe, the flavor is always bitter, but taste is only one way to experience something. We usually start with our eyes when we receive a drink. This was where traditional bitters fell short. Almost all the bitters out there are brown in color. A ton of flavor — but visually boring. This lead to the development of a line of colorful aromatic bitters. Flavor wise, they’re similar to any other product on the market but visually they’re much more appealing: bright colors like pink, blue and gold. Aromatics is the second sense you get when you order a drink. You put your face in it. You can smell sweet cotton candy with our Strawberry Fluff Bitters. It takes you back to childhood. While the actual taste remains the same — balance and complete.
“It takes you back to childhood.”
3) How do you make the products, and develop your recipes?
The brand currently has two lines of bitters: one with aromatic and colorful glitter and the other being a more rounded flavor that comes in all the colors. They are all made from herbs and spices extracted using natural grain alcohol. Each one has a unique recipe. Flavor ideas come from years of creating cocktails. A lot of times I just couldn't find what I was looking for so I started making my own. Flavors like Tangerine Cream, Smoke Tobacco or even Strawberry Cotton Candy. Currently I am working on a spicy bitters that will be sparkly red. We will also offer a red in our Now in Color line as well. That line is more of a traditional old fashioned bitters recipe.
4) Where can we find them served around town?
Bartenders at places like The Archives, Axe and the Oak and Principal’s Office are using the product. Or, starting mid August, you’ll be able to try it regularly downtown at a weekly popup that I’m co-creating. Stay tuned for a special announcement soon on that. We’ll be making cocktails using housemade infusions, fresh juices and of course Bitter and Glitter products. We’re super excited to see what we can create.
5) What's your favorite drink you've made with one of your bitters?
Any drink that I make for a friend or guest. It brings me such joy to see someone light up in front of a sparkly drink!
Burnt Toast expands to a north location
The week after its second anniversary celebration downtown at 112 N. Nevada Ave., Burnt Toast opened its second location at 7140 N. Academy Blvd. (in a former Qdoba spot). Co-owner Phil Duhon tells Side Dish that the new eatery’s dining room is just over double the size of the original location, where he says they have seen steady support since opening.
“We’re more stable than a lot of the other business I’ve been involved with,” he says. “Especially with the economy now. We’re consistent. Breakfast is a growing niche in the marketplace.” Based on his own analysis, be believes the ratio of morning spots to later-day restaurants is roughly one to 25.
I ask about only being open for one meal of the day — from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily at the north spot, and 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays and 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekends downtown — and having so many dark hours where the space isn’t generating revenue. He says “most restaurants’ lunch service makes zero money — they pay to keep doors open and break even. Unless you’re In-N-Out. Most independents are only making money at dinner.” He says a lot has changed in the marketplace since he was a line cook in the ’90s working at Olive Branch (where Red Gravy now is).
Duhon calls the expansion “proof of concept,” noting he and his business partner in the venture John Goede “plan on building more of these. It’s very good business model. It’s enjoyable and seems to be needed.” I ask how many more in the Springs and he says “a couple more, then maybe we’ll explore Castle Rock.” Goede also wants to expand into Florida, potentially, says Duhon.
His newly hired staff trained for two months downtown before opening, he says, so on day one at the new spot service ran quite smoothly even with a full dining room. “We didn’t have ticket times over 15 minutes this week.” He also notes an abundance of parking directly adjacent to his end-cap space, because most of his neighboring businesses open a little later in the day, so parking spots are empty. He calls this more of a destination location, versus downtown’s pedestrian draw.
Kochi Boba at a glance
I’m helping teach my partner’s kid to drive and it’s more fun with a destination in mind. Naturally, I decide to kill two birds with one stone and get some Side Dish work done. I know she likes boba spots (and all things sweet, generally), and I hadn’t yet been by the newly opened Kochi Boba downtown. It’s a cute space at 27 E. Platte Ave., where they’ve done a good job transitioning it from a former travel agent office to a small eatery/drink spot. We arrive uneventfully (as she’s a pretty good driver already).
I like the inviting layout and ample seating space, including some round booths. I’m expecting the obvious array of milk teas, and boba drinks with coffee items, but not the expanded menu of Thai tea drinks, smoothies and slushes and Kochi Signature drinks like infused coconut waters and nearly a dozen Matcha Signature flavors. Also, there’s enough of a savory menu to make Kochi a lunch or dinner spot — including egg and spring rolls, Korean wings, bánh mì and rice noodle bowls. (I need to return to sample through that.) Oh, and I can’t forget mochi donuts and something called “Croffles” which are apparently pressed croissants topped with fruit and “rich natural flavored cream” which includes options like coffee-Oreo and taro-roasted coconut. We really want to try these, but they’re already sold out for the day and don’t make them to-order. (Again, we must return!) But we are able to procure at matcha mochi donut, which rates fine/average for the category.
For drinks, she opts for a winter melon green tea milk tea with traditional boba (at a suggested 75-percent sweetness level) and I get a black sesame matcha latte with passion fruit popping boba (at a still-sweet 50-percent level). The drinks are totally enjoyable and go down quickly on a hot day. Overall they’re comparable with all the other boba spots in the Springs, chain or independent. But it’s nice to have another easy option in the downtown corridor now (as most of the others are in more suburban strip-malls).
Relatedly: Kochi will soon be joined by Fat Bee Cafe, who’s expanding from their OG spot at 3230 Centennial Blvd. to a second location at 201 E. Kiowa St., near City Rock.
NYT’s restaurant critic Pete Wells’ retirement column hits home for me
If you haven’t yet read New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells’ swan song article, published July 16, take a moment and do. (Sign up for a subscription if you have to — it’s worth it for 100 other reasons.) The writeup is impactful, to say the least.
I don’t say this in any type of self-important way, and I don’t place myself on the level of a NYT’s journo, but I can totally relate to the lifestyle Wells describes as he explains why he needs to step down from the role. In his case, the job is slowly killing him, as a recent checkup with his doctor illuminated. All the years of shoving overly rich food in his face on the daily has taken a toll. The article quotes a fellow critic as saying “It’s the least healthy job in America, probably.” He cites a sobering list of notable critics who died relatively young from a list of ailments.
Thankfully, I pretty much aced my last physical, and I make an effort to be physically active multiple times a week; I also try to eat well at home to offset my meals out. So Wells’ story in that regard is not my story. Plus, I’ve never had the budget and full career focus to dine out nearly as much as he did nor order the quantity of food he would per review. (I’ve probably averaged between two to four work-related-meals out weekly for the last 15 years.) But I relate nonetheless to his account of what becomes an obsession and addiction: essentially we critics are always chasing the dragon as we try to get our mouths around the whole of our respective restaurant scenes.
I would add in some OCD, as we make endless mental lists and construct frameworks to compartmentalize. We’re also paranoid about missing something before we publicly opine and sometimes make superlative statements. Wells describes eating burgers for “reference meals” at places he wasn’t even reviewing, just to contrast with a spot he was. (Again, nothing I had dime or time to do, so I relied on my historical memory generally.) Our work is never perfect, because culinary scenes are alive, active and always changing. Consistency is an age-old problem. What was great yesterday could suck today and I’ve often agonized over the true shelf-life of any review.
Anyway, I know what it’s like to dream of knocking out a meal at every single spot on a strip (as described in the column in relation to a 15-mile long taco trail) to gain a sense of completion, even if fleetingly. In service of the reader the goal would be to garner some all-knowing grasp of the scene from which to relate the most informed and taste-tested opinion. It’s this type of rationale and drive that makes us obsessive and never satisfied. We stay hungry. Until we aren’t anymore, which is one of Wells’ most poignant sign-offs in the article.
But back to the health bit: I relate to trying to resist a sugar addiction from desserts and drinks and that’s something I’m sure most of us battle with at home, not just out on the town. I took heart in hearing from other critics in Wells’ article who mastered the art of restraint — taking little bites and never finishing anything — and I do let my guests at review meals do a lot of the eating for me after I’ve taken my notes. I’ve been asked conversationally by readers over the years “how do you stay so thin?” And I tell them honestly that I have to work at it and put the gym hours in and everything else. Because yes, it’s a calorie-dense lifestyle. Most meals out are constructed to hit bliss points, not prioritize nutrition on the plate. Smoothie shops and juice bars aside, when’s the last time you saw a menu or heard a chef talk about optimal food combinations?
Wells’ final realization was that he is not his job, and he realized that he’d gone against advice to not identify too heavily with his work. I sympathize, because that’s a difficult task considering the prestige of being a Times critic, giving a shit about the culinary culture and knowing that you become somewhat of a persona in the role of a town tastemaker. I definitely identify closely with my work, and in starting this self-employed Side Dish venture last year (after departing from nearly 20 years newspaper work), I had to own and become my brand in a more direct way than I ever had to before. My damn face is on the thing, literally. Right now, I can’t say in good faith that I’m not my job. I’m still in it, at the table, waiting for the next course. I have no plans to call for the bill soon.
This isn't the first time I’ve existentially pondered my existence as an eater, though. I think about the impact this work has had on my wellbeing with regularity. When I read Wells’ comment that “we all know that we’re standing on the rim of an endlessly deep hole and that if we look down we might fall in,” I got chills. Or some emotional equivalent of the physical sensation. My hope is that like one of the critics he notes has been in her role for 40 years, I’ll always be able to guide myself away from the chasm and find my way forward with fortitude. Figure it out, moderate, digest. And, of course, keep those annual physicals on the calendar.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Red Gravy + Kangaroo Coffee + Ascent Beverage: We’re collaborating at the July 18 Taste of Pikes Peak and presenting together at the Side Dish booth! Red Gravy’s serving a Red-Eye Gravy-inspired penne pasta with Kangaroo-roasted espresso, Italian sausage, roasted cauliflower and kale. Enjoy it with a Robb’s Red-Eye Cream cocktail sample featuring Kangaroo coffee and Robb’s Red Rumm. (Also catch a sparkly blueberry marg in the VIP area made with Billy’s Tequila and Bitter & Glitter.)
• Bristol Brewing Company: It’s mid-summer beer season! Refresh your spirit on a hot day with Yellow Kite Summer Pils, Mango Pirate Golden Sour, or Beehive Honey Wheat. WireWood Station plays Bristol’s Music in the Yard on Friday, July 19, 6-8 p.m. Also, we’re hosting Sip With Schnip on July 24.
• Blue Star Group: What says summer better than Strawberry Rhubarb Pie? This special seasonal pie is currently on the menu at Gold Star Bakery and selling fast! Gold Star is doing a special run of the flavor next week for pickup on Friday, July 26. Orders must be placed by Saturday, July 20. Order here, now!
• The Carter Payne: We’re refreshing menus and sourcing Colorado produce. Sweet corn, apricots, green beans and peaches have arrived this week. Come for specials like a peach crumble dessert. On draft right now: Nori Gose (an outstanding seaweed beer!), Passionfruit Milkshake IPA, and Microvora Mushroom Quad.
• Four by Brother Luck: Our new summer menu just dropped on July 9! Take a look:
•T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila: $5 Altos and $5 Jameson All Day Every Day.
• Rasta Pasta: Happy hours daily from 3-5 p.m., with $3 Red Stripe beers, $4 house rum punch, $5 house wines and $5 munchies.
• Wobbly Olive: Half-priced cocktails from our full menu during happy hours, 4-6 p.m., Mondays through Fridays, at both locations. Pair a drink with the coconut-crusted sea bass or or pork tenderloin souvlaki.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Goatflix & Chill: Mean Girls (2024), 8-10 p.m., July 19; $15-$25 to watch the movie with baby goats. Baby Goat Yoga, July 20. Sessions between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. $30 tickets here. Trivia, 6:30-8:30 p.m., July 24.
• The French Kitchen: We’re celebrating National Chocolate Chip Cookie Day on Aug. 3. Get 10 of our fresh-baked cookies plus 50 raw, frozen cookie dough balls for home use for 20% off the normal price. Learn to cook popular Asian dishes with TFK Chef Anne. Find her upcoming classes on our online calendar, from ‘Asian Instant Pot’ to ‘Dumplings and Baos’ and ‘Easy Korean’.
• Edelweiss: Come in for one of our summer cocktails like a basil-gin made with Absaroka aged gin, plus a Lillet berry spritzer. Enjoy one on our dog-friendly patio.
• Odyssey Gastropub: Stop by for our Esquites Nachos: Mexican-style street corn, wonton chips, tajín crema, queso fresco, pickled peppers, and cilantro — $15.
Upcoming events
• July 18: Taste of Pikes Peak outside the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum. 6-9 p.m. Food and drink samplings galore, and I’ll be co-judging again this year. Proceeds benefit the Pikes Peak Chapter of the Colorado Restaurant Association.
• July 20: Grand opening party at WestFax Springs. Noon to 11 p.m. Special beer releases, live music and food truck. (Catch our tap&table interview with owner/brewer Anthony Martuscello here.)
• July 20: Metric Brewing Six Year Anniversary Celebration. Noon onward. Special beer releases, two food trucks and merch giveaways.
• July 24: Sip with Schnip at Bristol Brewing Co., 6-8 p.m. in the Barrel Room. Get a pulled pork sandwich from Spark BBQ + a beer + a piece of bourbon pecan pie (from Gold Star Bakery) for just $16.
• July 25: Tails, Tunes & Tastes at the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. 6-9:30 p.m., $64.75 includes unlimited small plate samples plus two drink tickets. (Tickets also available for Aug. 29 and Sept. 26 dates.)
• July 27: Downtown Summer Fest. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. View the Olympics on a big screen in the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum plaza alongside live music, vendors and more.
• Aug. 3: 16th annual Vino and Notes wine, food and jazz festival in Monument’s Memorial Park. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. $35-$60. Featuring more than 20 wineries/cider houses.
• Aug. 3: 2nd Annual Indian Food Festival at Liberty High School. 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; free, with early-access VIP tickets for $12.50. Preregistration required.
• Aug. 3: Don’t Drink the Juice Brunch at FH Beerworks. 10 a.m. onward. The brewery taps this popular hazy IPA and offers beermosas with it. Neat Whiskey House will serve mimosa flights and 1231 Craft Kitchen will sell breakfast tacos and more.
*All summer: Support our local farmers markets. Use Visit COS’ online guide to find the market(s) nearest you.
Parting shot(s)
Guess who re-upped on Schnip stickers? Oops, I guess I kinda gave the answer away in the question there. But yeah, this guy! I’m all stocked up for Taste of Pikes Peak on Thursday evening so come see me downtown to get your sticker. Surely you need this somewhere in your life. And by displaying it (on your water bottle, cell phone case, laptop, your partner’s forehead, etc.) you’re sending a not-so secret message to those around you that you’re in the know as a savvy foodie. So, come see me.
