Beyond words
Beyond words
Inefable is Chef Fernando Trancoso's passion project coming to Avenue 19; last call for turkey prep; bites, bits, events + more food & drink news
Chef Fernando Trancoso first caught my eye in September 2020, shortly after he’d arrived here from Sante Fe. He was creating long lines for spectacular carnitas at a food truck named Tobala with his initial business partner. Just two months later, I found myself writing about his departure from Tobala to create his own venture named Tepex. Surely you’ve heard of it, and hopefully you got your fill dining at the lauded truck (a quick town favorite at breweries like Lost Friend) over the past few years, because it’s now closed and up for sale.
Normally that’d be the end to a sad story, but it’s actually just the beginning of a very happy one instead for Trancoso. He’s now pursuing a dream nearly a decade in the making with the creation of Inefable, a Latin-flavored fine dining spot soon to open in the upstairs space at Avenue 19. (Think: the equivalent of Ephemera at COATI.) The name — In-ef-fab-lay — is Spanish for “ineffable,” defined generally as something too great to be expressed in words. “But it leaves you with a good feeling,” says Trancoso. “I see it like art, where it has to make you feel something.”
I sat down with Trancoso last weekend in the space (still under final renovation) to sample a couple plates from his newly created menu and discuss the concept and what diners should expect of the beloved street-taco guy now homed in brick-and-mortar. He’s aiming to open as early as Dec. 1, perhaps a little later. Here’s a rundown:
• Inefable will be Mexican focused but also incorporate flavors from South and Latin America, with French foundational influences says Trancoso. “There’ll be more technique and presentation here. I love colors. I’m treating the plate as a canvas I want to paint.” One example from my tasting: a pipián verde sauce (made with tomatillos, serranos and pepitas) typically gets lettuce, but Trancoso prefers spinach for a deeper green hue over his tetelas appetizer. “My goal is to showcase a side of Mexico not familiar to a lot of people in the U.S.,” he says. “Tepex did that to some degree with street food.”
• The menu will be seasonal and draw from all seven regions of Mexico primarily. Before spending 21 years in Santa Fe, Trancoso grew up in Aguascalientes. “The good thing about living in central Mexico is we got influences from everywhere; the coast was five hours away, Guadalajara was close and Mexico City wasn’t too far away.” Expect Inefable to launch with a relatively short menu, to include eight apps, six mains and four desserts. (He’s hiring a former employee who’s now a pastry chef fresh out of Escoffier School of Culinary Arts.) Trancoso says there’ll be ample seafood but almost always beef cheeks and tongue, pork belly and proteins like lamb and duck. (He notes a bone-in lamb dish with Mole Coloradito sauce.)
• Trancoso is a self-taught chef. He says when he was working front-of-the-house for many years he would study and learn by recreating recipes at home. “I didn’t have the time or money to go to school, but I worked for some of the best chefs in New Mexico.” His mentors include regular James Beard Award finalist Martín Rios at Restaurant Martín and Fernando Olea at highly awarded Sazón, as well as Robert Chickering at Galisteo Bistro.
• Trancoso is also a level two Sommelier. He’s building Inefable’s wine list, which he calls “very adventurous” with wines ranging from familiar spots but also countries like Croatia, Armenia, Hungary and even Mexico. He’ll offer wine flights and a Coravin system will allow for pricier bottles by the glass. Though the focus will be on wine, he’ll also offer “experiential craft cocktails” and limited beer drafts and cans with creative input from project financial partner Rachel Goede, who’s also aiding in front-house design. (If the last name’s familiar, Rachel is married to local attorney-turned industry backer John Goede, who holds equity in projects like The Famous, Burnt Toast, Avenue 19 and Prime 25.)
• The spacious upstairs at Avenue 19 will give Inefable roughly a 60-seat dining room with adjacent private dining spaces in both a wine cellar area (actually overlooking the food court and kiosks below) and back meeting room that’s available for business functions and presentations. Trancoso says special dinners might include guest chefs such as friends he made at the recent Hispanic Top Chef competition in Denver. Warm months later will likely bring Taco Tuesdays on the veranda, he hints. So yeah, even though Tepex is done, it’s not really gone forever, fans. I would say it’s like “ephemera,” but I can’t quite find the words to describe it. (👈 That’s a joke, get it?)
Have Thanksgiving with us (we’ve even got a demo video for ya from Ranch Foods Direct)
Sure, you could buy a ready-to-make Thanksgiving meal kit from a number of area restaurants, or even Bread & Butter Neighborhood Market — nobody smart would fault that. Or you could dine out buffet-style at places like Springs Orleans or the Broadmoor Hall on T-Day — peruse Springs Magazine’s list for open eateries. (Ha! I knew someone would do the list-y legwork I cared not to do. Cheers.) I’m sure there’s many tempting options, but if you’re resolved to cook at home to honor family traditions or just give a new turkey fryer a test run, then strongly consider making this outstanding Citrus Herb Thanksgiving Turkey recipe designed by Gather Food Studio Co-owner/Chef Cortney Smith. The recipe is of course part of Side Dish’s monthly collaborative recipes with Gather and Ranch Foods Direct.
Ranch Foods Direct begins sales of sustainably raised turkeys from Gunthorp Farms on November 20; you can pre-order in market now. There, you’ll also find a special two-in-one spice kit that features a brine blend and a turkey rub made fresh by Gather specifically for this recipe. Visit either Ranch Foods Direct retail market for supplies. Also — special this month — find links to more Thanksgiving side dish and dessert recipes from Gather Food Studio as well as links to Thanksgiving blog posts and online content from chefs Cortney Smith and Dave Cook, to include even more recipes as well as topical pieces such as ‘Staying Sane on Thanksgiving.’
Side Dish featured in Inside the News in Colorado
Cheers to journalist, Colorado College instructor and fellow Substack writer Corey Hutchins for citing Side Dish in his recent newsletter about journalists who’ve “left local legacy news outlets to start one-person newsrooms of their own.” It’s nice to be spotlighted alongside other entrepreneurs who can’t quite shake their journalism habits. Here’s the excerpt; click the below link for the full story:
“… In Colorado Springs, after longtime food-and-drink editor Matthew Schniper was laid off earlier this year by The Indy alt-weekly, he created the culinary-focused Side Dish with Schniper on Substack. He didn’t flip the bird to his old employer; instead, he sells versions of his independent work to The Indy on a freelance basis.
Just last week, a photo of Schniper appeared on the cover of his former publication for the first time ever — even though he had served in almost every editorial role at the newspaper for much of his career. (The Indy had published a cover story he wrote about dining at IKEA that he had also published at Side Dish.)
To be sure, such a model hasn’t seemed to work everywhere. At least not yet …”
A decade under the influence
From Side Dish content partner Focal Pint this week: Ryan Hannigan unpacks Nano 108 Brewing Co.’s decade in business ahead of a special 10th anniversary celebration (from noon to close) Saturday, Nov. 18. Head Brewer Keith Hernandez tells Hannigan “We’ve always been somewhat isolated as a brewery, both by geography and by choice, and I’m working to change that.” Click the link to read more.
Also in beer news this week: a volunteer opportunity in Guatemala with Lost Friend Brewing Co. is available next year, and Bristol Brewing Co. announces the return of Firkin Fest on March 2, 2024.
Voodoo Dude
My mini reviews of Lebowski's Taproom and Voodoo Brewing Co. — originally published this time last month for paid subscribers — are now out from behind that evil, cumbersome paywall of mine. If you despise that content barrier, like as bad as you hated eating your vegetables as a kid, you can always upgrade for $5 month for early access + perks that pay you back. Plus that helps keep me employed, doing this work that I love and that serves both the public and the food/drink industry. Until year’s end, I’m running a Side Dish Schnip special holiday offer to take an additional 10% off an annual subscription (which is already discounted by $10 when compared to paying at the $5 monthly rate). Click the button below to take advantage of that. As well, you can gift a subscription to a foodie friend or family member.
Bites and bits
• Hold Fast Coffee Co. continues its 10th Anniversary Celebration through Nov. 19 that I reported on here last week. 👇
• Slice420 recently promoted its new Thanksgiving Pizza (and Thanksgiving Hero), now available at both locations. It’s made with homemade mashed potatoes, fresh roasted turkey breast and house stuffing and cranberry sauce. The image of the pie certainly caught my attention.
• Shuga’s Restaurant | Bar posted earlier this week that “wild card shots are back!”
Upcoming events
• Nov. 18: Catch the Peaks & Pours Bourbon Festival at The Meanwhile Block. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m; $30-$100.
• Nov. 19: Indvstry Video Bar will host a Club Q Memorial Event. 4-7 p.m; free. Affected families will attend (and be honored) as well as Wu Tang Clan member Young Dirty Bastard (Barsun Jones), C. Springs Mayor Yemi Mobolade and Denver's Mayor Mike Johnston (by video) according to venue owner Jae Cho.
• Nov. 20: Dave & Buster’s grand opens at 9279 Highland Ridge Heights. It’s Colorado’s third location, offers 100-plus “of the latest arcade games” and hosts D&B Sports Bar for game viewing.
• Nov. 25: Phantom Canyon Brewing Co.’s 30th Birthday Celebration, with four special beer releases, an optional buffet, music and more. (Further details to come next week after my media preview on the 21st.😎)
• Nov. 25: Bristol Brewing Co. features the Happy Cats Holiday Market as part of its Karma on Tap series. Noon to 4 p.m. Happy Cats Haven will host the holiday market. Bristol will donate a dollar from every pint sold (all day long) to Happy Cats. Also: Lots of Bristol seasonal specialty, give-back beers are on tap now, including the Venetucci Farm Pumpkin Ale, Smoked Porter and Piñon Nut Brown. And a beer I’m excited to try, Bristol’s Cold IPA, drops Nov. 30. (I became interested in the style after my first sip last year at Pueblo West’s Reservoir Brewing.)
• Nov. 30: Holiday Cocktail Making Class with Montana Horsfall at The Carter Payne. 6 p.m.; $65. “Learn the history and story behind four holiday-oriented cocktails and practice your hand as you make (and enjoy!) each of them.” Two of the drinks: a Blackstrap Molasses and Brown Sugar Caipirinha and a Peach and Black Pepper Old Fashioned featuring Distillery 291 Bourbon.
Schniper around town, in three acts (mostly in photos)
Act I: Dia De Los Muertos at Milagros Mexican Cocina
Chef Beto Reyes and the whole team at Milagros Cocina Mexicana put on a spectacular celebration for Day of the Dead on Nov. 9. Everyone was costumed beautifully; the food menu was colorful, diverse, creative and quite rich and lavish — click the photo to read the full menu — and of course the tequila flowed liberally. Batch Nueveuno was the presenting spirit company and I sat with a distributor and tequila specialist on-hand to rep the products and learned that Milagros is the first Springs spot to pick up this unique tequila lineup. Its claim to fame is being organic, kosher, additive-free and non-GMO, single-estate produced and woman-owned (Nohemi Partida Ontiveros is also the master distiller). Feliz Día de los Muertos!
Act II: Gingerbread & Jazz at the FAC
Early Connections Learning Center invited me to co-judge this year’s Gingerbread & Jazz event Nov. 11 at the Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center at Colorado College. (Man that’s always a mouthful.) The artistry and pastry prowess on display was simply spectacular. The competitors were Boonzaaijer’s Dutch Bakery, Icing on the Cake and The Sugarplum Cake Shoppe (who earned our judge’s choice award). Each design was unique and spectacular in its own way. Boonzaaijer’s handed out pamphlets detailing the Dutch Fairytale The Old Windmill and the Little Butterfly which informed its edible work of art. Icing on the cake spotlighted fairytales, including Hansel and Gretel, and Sugarplum invited guests to find 20 total fairytales, fables and folktales build into their gingerbread house, ranging from Lord of the Rings to Star Wars to Jack and the Bean Stalk. To state the obvious: Next time you need a special custom cake made or just want some quality sweets, I know three places where you can start shopping.
Act III: Chili Fest at Ivywild School
And finally, Salad or Bust invited me to co-judge on Nov. 12 for its Chili Cook-Off held at the Ivywild School. If I’m counting correctly, we tasted 24 total chili renditions broken into red, green and vegan categories. Seeing how diverse one item can be presented was quite amusing. Some folks went traditional routes, others spun off into their own styles, infusing elements from their businesses or backgrounds. For example, winner in the people’s choice green chili category Supansa Banker of Chef’s Roots infused a little Thai style into her bowl, with an option for added chile pepper heat to amp bites (delicious!). And while judge’s choice winners Pete Moreno (Prime 25, 1st place) and James Africano (The Warehouse, 3rd place) stayed pretty true to deep chili flavors in their respective red and green versions, 2nd place finisher Kalen Janifer from Chiba Bar surprised us with a fantastic, Asian-inspired, Szechuan-Thai brisket short rib chili with fermented black beans, cilantro-lime rice, yuzu-avocado-ginger crema and five spice-cured pork belly lardons for final garnishing. (Wowsa!)
Parting Shot(s)
(Technically, Act IV if we’re still counting)
The December bracket is set for the Bar Battle Royale on Dec. 11 at Tipperary Cocktail Parlor — the culmination of five prior months’ friendly face-offs. In Round 5 this past week, The Archives’ Shayne Baldwin bested his pal and coworker Chris Gary during the final drink round. It featured Distillery 291’s High Rye Colorado Bourbon as the challenge spirit. At 132.2 proof it’s a hot hooch to balance and though Gary wowed us with an incredible Black Manhattan, Baldwin pulled off a remarkable act of mitigating the high rye profile with fresh citrus aspects.
In the opening rounds, Gary knocked out District Elleven’s Sid Stewart and Baldwin bested prior month winner Andrew Alverson. Speaking as a judge — along with Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits rep John Giannotti and Código spirits rep Brice Erichsen — I can say the bartenders made our job arduous. We particularly agonized over deciding that final round, so much so that we brought several other bartenders as well as Distillery 291 founder Michael Myers to our table to give insight before we could come to a decision. Myers was so impressed by both drinks that he announced 291 would be featuring them on its menu for the rest of the year in their tasting room. (So now ya’ll can go by and try them for yourself!)
So here’s what December is going to look like: The four winning bartenders from each prior month (ignoring our first battle, which was an internal practice round between Tipperary, Allusion Speakeasy, Wobbly Olive and Folkore at the time) will go head-to-head for final bragging rights and another generous cash prize. Those bartenders are: District Elleven’s Andrew Alverson; Tipperary’s Jacob Pfund; 503W’s Zach Sherwood and The Archives’ Shayne Baldwin. We judges are hosed. It’s gonna be a mega talent bomb from an adept pool of local mixologists; this whole series has been centered around celebrating the Springs’ excellence behind local bar counters.
Tipperary co-owner Sean Fitzgerald and I (as co-presenters) are finalizing a special new framework for Dec. 11’s Battle Royale to give the participants more chances to shine as well as feed event guests (likely in a modestly priced ticketed format, to include featured-spirit cocktails). So I’ll have updates on that in the coming weeks.
I am definitely down for that Slice 420 Thanksgiving pie, too...
WoW Schnip...what a read!! Lots of bar-news springing up around the Springs. Thanks for pouring over all those tastings.