Nachos cometh
Nachos cometh
The Lincoln Center is poised for Odyssey Gastropub's anticipated offshoot; Solutions Tavern to fill vacated Dueces Wild taproom; Bell Brothers Brewing announces closure + more food & drink briefs
Back in May in this newsletter, I asked you to Enter the Matrix. It wasn’t a veiled tease for the election season ahead, or anything Keanu related (sorry), but a literal invite to soon join Odyssey Gastropub owners Jenny and Tyler Sherman in their new endeavor Nacho Matrix. It has taken over the space that was formerly The Roswell at the Lincoln Center, next door to Goat Patch Brewing Co. (Both Odyssey and Goat Patch are Side Dish Dozen members, with whom I’m regularly in touch.)
I suggest clicking that Matrix link above to refresh your memory on the intention behind the project (or if you’re a newer subscriber who missed that article when it first published). Anyway, as with seemingly all construction/renovation endeavors in Smallorado Springs, various delays and hiccups happened to knock Nacho Matrix’s original opening-day projections off the mark. That’s just served to build more anticipation from many foodies on local food-group channels who’re eagerly awaiting their first bites of Executive Chef Andrew Borek’s new nacho creations.
Well, we finally have a tentative doors-open date, pending no last-minute code inspection surprises in the coming week. The Shermans plan to soft open during the evening of Thursday, Sept. 19, and begin service in-full on Friday, Sept. 20. (We’ll update if anything shifts.) Here’s your menu preview:
I took a quick tour through Nacho Matrix’s nearly completed dining room and kitchen earlier this week, checking out the significant upgrades the Shermans have made to install a more complete cooking facility than past occupants enjoyed. Jenny told me their kitchen is now more than double the size of the prior one on site. There’s room to seat 44 people inside and as many outside on the patio as well. (By contrast, Odyssey can seat 80 inside.) If you recall The Roswell’s bar area (or Smørbrød’s before it), Nacho Matrix’s is in the same spot, with a redesigned back bar and countertop. I’ll let you discover the rest for yourself, but here’s some textural teasers for you to find:
Pictured at the top of this post are the Baja nachos with grilled shrimp, roasted corn, chorizo, avocado, jalapeños, Baja sauce, tomatoes, queso fresco and cilantro over wonton chips. I didn’t intend to do any early critical commentary, but I have to say they’re pretty damn delightful alongside a pint of Goat Patch’s hazy IPA. The chorizo gifts nice spice, the prawn pieces are juicy and add lightness, the avocado lends creaminess and all ingredients composed on a crisp wonton chip create the ideal flavor layering. We discussed that factor, and it’s the crucial component Borek says he knew had to be done right: “We want good chip coverage, with some of everything in a bite. It’s all about the layering and fresh, quality ingredients.” Odyssey General Manager Megan Krause, who helped facilitate some R&D for Nacho Matrix with free guest samples in recent weeks of products they were experimenting with, adds that “People feel very passionate about their nacho composition and sauces — we got great customer feedback.”
The team is sourcing raw product from Denver’s Raquelitas Tortillas to fry up in-house. Borek’s compiling his own cheese blend that’s “not the fake yellow stuff,” and he’s making a Colorado-style queso with green chiles. As you can see on the above menu, there’s eight signature nacho plates ranging from a vegan sofritas to creations with pulled pork, ahi tuna and sliced steak. I ask Borek his personal favorite at the moment and he says it’s the chicken and green chile variant that spotlights his house queso. But he’s also partial to the poke nachos over wonton chips with pineapple salsa and wasabi aioli. “This is just the jumping off point,” Jenny says during our tasting, noting there’ll be specials like a nacho of the week, or month, down the line once they stabilize the core menu during the early opening days.
A couple days after I tour Nacho Matrix, I meet again with the Shermans and their chef and GM downtown at Odyssey. They’ve invited me to photograph and sample a few items off the new fall/winter menu just introduced last week at Odyssey. While I have them all assembled, and since I’m sipping on a Goat Patch hazy IPA as I mentioned, I ask them about Nacho Matrix’s location and how they anticipate it dovetailing with the neighboring brewery’s activities and such. “We have great relationship and we’ve been intentional about how we’re moving forward with our bar program to make sure we’re supporting them in a way they’ve been supportive with us,” says Jenny. She tells me that Goat Patch’s hazy IPA is the #1 selling item at Odyssey above anything else on the menu, outperforming the nearest item on a given timeframe by as many as 100 units. At Nacho Matrix, they plan to dedicate all the draft handles to Goat Patch brews so patrons can just as easily enjoy a pint here with their nachos versus having to order to-go to bring the nachos to the beer.
Photos finished, we finally fork into the trio of dishes that Borek has presented, described in detail in the captions below. I comment on their relative lightness compared to the comfort-food items they’re known for, like their fish ‘n chips (now made with sole), chicken & waffles (with hot chile peach jam and bourbon maple syrup) and mac & cheese (this season’s rendition with smoked bacon lardons, fried potato crips and more). "It’s a mix of light and heavy items on this menu. We wanted to mix it up for the kitchen," he says. "These are all new plates. We're trying to stay away from standard meat and potatoes dishes." Plus, the lighter items on the most recent menu were selling well, he says, indicating customer demand.
To conclude with a final note on Nacho Matrix, its menu carries a similar light-to-heavy ratio. Contrasting the heavier protein and rich cheese items on the signature nacho dishes are starters like shrimp ceviche, a Mexican chopped salad and spicy tuna tacos. So, you’ll be able to re-enter the Matrix without feeling too guilty, should you wish to choose that path versus the other adventure on offer that I didn’t mention yet, which is to build-your-own nachos via filling out the Matrix Menu.
Lavish lengua with Inefable and Ranch Foods Direct
Our collaboration recipe between Side Dish and its lead sponsor Ranch Foods Direct is with Chef Fernando Trancoso of Inefable and Tepex this month. Trancoso has shared this fabulous recipe for beef tongue, which features a pipian sauce made with pumpkin seeds, tomatillos and Serrano peppers. You’ll find many of the ingredients this dish requires at Ranch Foods Direct, where they extend a five percent discount on your whole grocery basket when you mention you’re a Side Dish subscriber. Enjoy!
T-Gap Dueces Wild to become Solutions Tavern
Dueces Wild Brewery opted not to renew its lease, and closed its taproom at 3352 Templeton Gap Road on Aug. 24, and had initially announced a reopening at its Peterson Road brewery on Sept. 5. That location had been damaged by fire back in May, and forced to shut down for repairs. A post on Dueces Wild’s Facebook page on Sept. 5 said “still under construction, check back soon.” I messaged the owners, who told me they’re now “hoping before the end of the month,” saying painting and restoration is done, but they’re still refinishing the floors and need to re-stage the brewery equipment and bar.
In Dueces’ vacated space Solution Tavern will be opening soon as “your neighborhood spot for drinks, trivia and more.” A recent Facebook post indicates a new sounds system, TVs and various equipment upgrades and remodeling touches. I reached co-owner Eric Johnson, a software developer by day who also operates neighboring 21 Keys Escape Rooms, which celebrates its seventh anniversary this weekend. He tells me he and his business partner in Solutions Tavern, Adam Paplau (who used to co-own Denver’s former The Crown Social), view it as very synergistic with 21 Keys. Johnson says his escape room guests often want a space to sit and grab a drink after their game and talk about their adventure together, so he appreciated having Dueces as a neighbor. With Solutions, he seeks to keep continuity with that, as well as gain extra space to accommodate requested large-group meeting and party space he’s lacked next door.
Solution Tavern already has a liquor license in hand and will be a full bar, with wine and spirits joining 12 taps that Johnson says they’ll keep rotating and interesting — always to include a seltzer handle (with syrup flavor options), West Coast and hazy IPAs, a lager and some consistent styles from local and outside breweries. They’ll continue to host food trucks, but also serve simple countertop pizzas, Mark Anthony Pretzels and other snacks. Johnson was the former trivia host at Dueces for the past couple years, hence keeping that programming, to which they’re adding the sports-bar-like fare with a Direct TV package for games. He also notes planned board game nights and themed discount nights like college, teachers and service industry nights.
Bites & Bits
• Bell Brothers Brewing, after a little over two and a half years in business, announced Sept. 10 that it would be closing permanently at the end of service on Sept. 29. “In the coming weeks, please stop by and take advantage of specials on merch, to-go beer, and yes, the early release of our anniversary Rover Smasher Barleywine,” they wrote in the post, which otherwise thanked patrons, staff and others for their support. I spoke with co-owner and brewer Cody Bell on Sept. 11 to find more out about the reasons for shuttering. “In general, it’s a tough market,” he began. “We hit a point where the numbers weren’t going the right direction, and the investment needed to keep it going, when we didn’t see a way forward, didn’t make sense.”
Bell says they did have some keg distribution, to spots like both Public House locations and Lebowski’s Taproom, and they’d just recently begun making two exclusive brews for neighboring newbie The Crooked Cue. But despite those steps forward, “it wasn’t at a rate that was going to lead to a sustainable situation anytime soon,” he says. “We weren’t seeing the volume we needed.” I inquire about next steps, and Bell says the business and equipment are now for sale and they’re seeking someone to acquire their lease. He says he’d entertain an offer to stay on as a brewer for a new outfit, but most likely he’ll return to his former career field. He has a metallurgy degree and formerly worked at the Air Force Academy doing failure analysis on aircraft parts. His brother and co-owner Curtis had kept his full-time engineering-related employment outside of the brewery.
• FO4R North (who I reviewed in-part here last November) announced this week that Longboard Tacos & Pause Ultra Lounge would be closing temporarily (for an undetermined amount of time). In online postings they wrote: “Unfortunately we have been dealing with persistent construction issues since the day we opened, specifically leaks that have worsened with every rainfall and snowfall. In order to fully address these problems, we will need to undergo significant repairs…” While those are underway, the company asks patrons to support them at Manhattan Room Tapas Kitchen and Cansano Italian Steakhouse (which will open for lunch service on Sept. 16), located in separate structures on the mini campus.
• A car drove through the storefront of Chaang Thai on Sept. 10. Owner Suwanna Meyer posted to say nobody was hurt, because the dining room was clear of customers at the time and two staff members were outside on the side patio taking umbrellas down from lunch service. The restaurant was closed Sept. 11 and 12, with a note that they’ll open as soon as they can get everything cleaned up. I reached Meyer, who told me she hopes to be open on Sept. 13. Meanwhile, fans can show support by dining at her other nearby eatery, Elephant Thai, just down the road at 4703 N.Academy Blvd.
• Felipe’s 109 announced over the weekend that they’ll be shuttering their Westside location (inside Trails End Taproom), which just opened in May of this year. They cited a learning lesson in the experience of trying out a different part of town, but said “Our company has strong roots in the South East Colorado Springs.” A few days later, on Sept. 9, the company announced its grand reopening in its original location at 3008 S. Academy Blvd., set for Sept. 17, with $2 Taco Burger Tuesday. Meanwhile, you can attend their OCC Last Week Celebration on Sept. 12 and 13.
• Remember this time last year when the Michelin Guide announced its first ever Colorado awards? Much of my story at that time related to the pay-to-play nature of which cities chose to pony up and participate; the Springs did not. Anyway, Denver obviously did, and reaped quite the benefit in terms of Bib Gourmand and Recommended restaurant picks that made the list, both in 2023 and now in 2024. The new list is out, and Colorado gained a single Michelin-starred eatery: Alma Fonda Fina. It joins Denver’s Beckon, Bruto and The Wolf’s Tailor, as well as Aspen’s Bosq and Boulder’s Frasca in the one-star category. This Denver Post article outlines that and descriptions of the other newbies to the guide this year, including a Cantonese-American joint and a self-described non-traditional izakaya. You can also view the full list of Michelin-awarded Colorado spots for 2024 there. (Two asides: 1) I should have dined at Alma Fonda Fina months ago when then-Springs chef Beto Reyes recommended I do; the wait’s gonna be longer now. 2) I reached out to Visit Colorado Springs to ask if they were re-approached this year to pay to be considered. A spokesperson said they were not contacted to participate.
• I noted a couple weeks ago that Humble Coffee was closing its drive-thru location at 2103 Templeton Gap Road, and had launched a GoFundMe seeking help to relocate. On Sept. 10, the outfit posted on its Facebook page that they’ve already found a new location just a couple miles away at 434 W. Fillmore St. — the former Kangaroo Coffee kiosk which that company elected to close earlier this year in favor of growth elsewhere in town. No opening date has yet been announced.
• Ya’ll remember that viral Dubai Chocolate Bar I told you about last month, available at Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory? Well, initially there was only a milk chocolate version available, but by request, they’ve begun making a dark chocolate version. A friend already picked one up, and says “they’re incredible!” and that “the dark chocolate version is much less sweet than the milk, as expected.”
• I don’t know about you, but I got an email last week from Casa Bonita, inviting me to become a “Founding Member.” The perks, it said, would be “access to available reservations hours before they are open to the general public.” It also includes a 10 percent discount in their retail store, priority access to events and a personalized member card. (Could be worth doing for the cool-factor of the card alone.) Resos begin at 9 a.m. on Sept. 16.
• The Pikes Peak Small Business Development Center announced earlier this week that Atrevida Beer Company has been named the 2024 Hispanic Veteran-Owned Business of the Year by the United States Hispanic Chamber of Commerce. “Based in Colorado Springs, Atrevida Beer Co., led by Jessica Fierro, has earned this national recognition for its excellence in brewing, commitment to diversity, and bold approach to business,” they wrote.
• A GoFundMe has been started by a patron of Uchenna Ethiopian Restaurant with a message from owner Maya Hetman, seeking support for medical expenses for her husband’s care. “I am going through the most challenging and difficult times in my life,” she writes. I know Maya well and she’s a somewhat private person, despite warmly hugging most of the customers who enter her restaurant, an extension of her home as she’s articulated it to me before. I stopped by last week to give her a hug and briefly check in, and I verified the veracity of the GoFundMe campaign, so Uchenna’s many supporters can feel comfortable donating should they wish to contribute. You can also drop by for a meal soon; give grace around the operating hours as she’s often between the restaurant and medical facility, she told me.
• Skirted Heifer will appear on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives at 7 p.m., Sept. 13.
• Cerberus Brewing Co. got a shout-out on RapTV’s Instagram for its newly released That Mexican OT Lager. It’s named for the professional rapper who’s playing Denver’s Ogden Theatre Sept. 17. Cerberus head brewer Troy Johnson is a big fan (obviously).
• Nomads has temporarily closed for restructuring, says owner Aaron Ewton of Atlas Restaurant Group.
• I should have an update on Night Ramen’s opening date, as well as the story behind it, next week for you.
• Food & Wine says Aurora has Colorado’s Most Diverse Food Scene. It’s good to see Colorado’s third-largest city covered for something other than “exaggerated migrant gang coverage,” as thoroughly outlined by my fellow Substacker Corey Hutchins in his always-insightful Inside the News in Colorado newsletter. Among highlighted businesses in Food & Wine’s article is Mango House, which hosts a refugee-operated food hall that features Syrian, West African and Ethiopian eats as well as Colorado’s sole Burmese eatery.
• “Michelob Ultra delivers almost nothing, and demands nothing in return. Which is just the kind of bargain I wanted when July broiled the whole region stupid.” — Drink of the Week segment from Breakup Gaming Society, Episode 79: I’ll Still Love You After the Board Games of Summer are Gone. (On which I make a guest appearance ‘cuz I happened to be hanging with host Nate Warren in Trinidad.)
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Eleven18 Latin Tapas Bar: Sit at the Chef’s Counter for three courses and two wines for $75/person. Sept. 18’s menu includes garlic and herb shrimp, pork belly on sweet potato purée and Crema Catalana with Macerated Berries. View upcoming menus and make reservations here.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Goatflix & Chill: Talladega Nights, 8-10 p.m., Sept. 13; view our what-to-bring list. Baby Goat Yoga, three time slots on Sept. 14, which is also the release for our Horchata Stout firkin at 2 p.m., with $5 pints.
• Rasta Pasta: Our daily happy hour from 3-5 features $3 Red Stripes, $4 rum punch and $5 wines and munchies.
• Bristol Brewing Company: Have you tried our Fresh Hop Collaboration Beer with Metric Brewing yet? Movie Under the Stars, 7:30 p.m. Sept. 14; BYO chair. Trivia Night, 6:30 p.m., Sept. 18, enjoy brews, win prizes.
• Edelweiss: Oktoberfest specials start next week! Come for our seasonal Pflaumen Kuchen (plum cake) through the month of September only. We enjoyed serving and seeing everyone at Fiddles, Vittles & Vino last weekend — prost!
• Red Gravy: Keep an eye out for the return of our Sunday Supper Club, soon!
• T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila: Our third Wednesday monthly Tequila Tasting Series continues Sept. 18. $25 gets you a 1-ounce pour from three tequila varietals plus snack bites from Chef Dustin Archuleta.
• The French Kitchen: Schedule now for our Sept. 28 Oktoberfest Beer Tasting with Chef Jason Miller (includes German food treats). September’s mousse of the month flavor is orange cream soda; one for $7.99 feeds two.
• Ascent Beverage: Visit Red Gravy soon to check out a revamped drink menu. Two of our products will inform some sips: Great Grey Gin and Absaroka barrel-aged gin.
• The Carter Payne: Member (and Member-Curious) Mixer, 5:30-8:30 p.m., Sept. 12. Local Relic Monthly Bottle Release Party, 1-5 p.m., Sept. 14. Harvest Celebration Dinner, 6 p.m., Sept. 21.
• Gold Star Bakery: Fall pie flavors are back! Pumpkin, dutch apple, bourbon pecan, salted maple, and wild blueberry. Pre-order, or stop in Wednesday-Sunday for a slice. Get the bourbon pecan with a Truancy Old Fashioned for $15 at the Principal's Office.
• Allusion Speakeasy: From our new Beetlejuice theme menu, check out Chef Mark Henry’s special creations, like the I Can’t Believe It’s Cantonese: spicy rice sticks, chicken, bok choy, scallion and black garlic molasses.
• Kangaroo Coffee: Come for coffee drinks and earn Roowards for free goodies. We also offer a Roo Card, on which we add a 5% bonus to pre-loaded amounts above $25.
• Odyssey Gastropub: Stop in to try our new brunch menu!
Upcoming events
• Sept. 13: Sober Soiree at the Meanwhile Block. 6-10 p.m., $100 tickets benefit Homeward Pikes Peak. Enjoy food samples, non-boozy cocktails and live music.
• Sept. 13: Mustard’s Mystery Dinner at Colonel Mustard’s Sandwich Emporium. 6 p.m.; $40/person or $75/couple. Call for resos.
• Sept. 14: Pawtoberfest Beer + Spirit Fest at Printers Hill. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Featuring boozy samplings and food trucks plus pet contests and family activities, with proceeds benefitting the Humane Society of the Pikes Peak Region.
• Sept. 14: Palmer Lake Wine Festival. Noon to 5 p.m.; $50-$60. Sample from 25 Colorado wineries and enjoy live music and food vending.
• Sept. 14: 3rd annual Best of the West Wing Fest at the Western Museum of Mining & Industry. 1-6 p.m.; $40-$80.
• Sept. 14-15: Cerberus Brewing Co.’s 8th Anniversary Extravaganza. Lots of happenings on both days, from group rides to music performances and beer releases.
• Sept. 14 and 15: Fiestas Patrias in downtown Colorado Springs.
• Sept. 15: Plant Based Junk Food in Colorado Springs at Metric Brewing. Traveling food truck Vulture Food is back from 1-5 p.m. with their vegan Crispy Chik'n Sandwiches with loaded fries.
• Sept. 15: Taste of OCC Food & Wine Festival in Bancroft Park. 1-4 p.m.; free entry, with food sampling tickets for vendors for purchase. Beer and wine for sale also.
• Sept. 16: Negroni and Grilled Cheese 3 Course Pairing at Cocktails After Dusk. 6-8 p.m..; $35. Event kicks off Negroni week.
• Sept. 20-21: Folk ‘n’ Flannel Festival & Fundraiser with Upadowna at the Meanwhile Block.
• Sept. 21: Bines & Brews beer fest in Monument. 1-5 p.m., $25.
• Sept. 21: Dead Man’s Brewfest at Weidner Field. 5-9 p.m., $69-$139.
• Sept. 22: Paella on the Patio at Tapateria. Three seatings between noon and 5 p.m.; $39 includes a first wine, beer or sangria. September’s paella style: Seafood.
• Sept. 24: Wine Dinner Benefiting Ukraine Power at Pizzeria Rustica. 6 p.m.; five courses, $79++. Ukraine Power is a C. Springs-based nonprofit that sends energy aid.
• Sept. 26: Sip with Schnip at Goat Patch Brewing. 5-9 p.m. Paid Side Dish subscribers can enjoy their first pint on us, and all subscribers will enjoy $2 off pints during the event. Solsage & Chuckwagon 719 will be serving their food and cornhole, ladder golf, and bucket pong will be set up to enjoy in the garden. Roma Ransom will play at 7 p.m.
Parting shot(s)
I attended two wonderful events last weekend: Revel: The Urban Arts Party in the AdAmAn Alley downtown and Fiddles, Vittles & Vino at Rock Ledge Ranch. Make sure to get tickets early for Revel next year, as several folks I heard from were bummed it was sold out by the time they went to purchase. Word around Fiddles, Vittles & Vino from vendors I spoke with as well as attendees was it was so enjoyed that people didn’t want this to be the last year. The Warehouse’s James Africano bit off the lion’s share of the organizational work (not to fail to credit his wife Shaundy, The Carter Payne’s Brent Beavers and others who helped in various ways) and indicated to me he’d be open to discussing a next year given more assistance. So, we’ll see. Meanwhile, here’s my photo dumps:
Revel
Fiddles, Vittles & Vino
I get to read these not quite as often as I should and it’s an amazing read every time I read them. Keep it up my friend we appreciate what you do