Prestige and new beginnings
Prestige and new beginnings
The Springs gets its first Michelin-awarded chef; Lulu's Downtown celebrates grand opening; the Whiskey Dinner of the Year unpacked + more food & drink news
Mausam Indian restaurant is on pace to soft-open sometime in the coming days at 3167 W. Colorado Ave. (a former IHOP) in between OCC and Manitou Springs.
This might normally land as run-of-the-mill restaurant news — as the Springs doesn’t exactly lack fine Indian options now. But there’s something quite different about Mausam, in that it’s introducing a Michelin-awarded chef to town. Chef Dharam Singh has arrived from a recent stint in Denmark that followed time across China. On Mausam’s Facebook page you can see pics of Singh receiving Michelin awards in 2018 and 2019 (what appear to be Bib Gourmand nods if you zoom in).
You’ll also see a photo of Singh with India Prime Minister Narendra Modi. That’s from a G20 Summit says Mausam’s Raymond Sandhu, co-owner with Kanwal Jhand. The two own another Indian restaurant in the region but don’t wish to draw attention to that (though we’ve agreed to talk about it at a later date) because they want full focus for now on Mausam’s “different recipes and food concept” Sandhu says.
“We’ll have items people haven’t tried,” he says, including gluten-free and vegan plates. “We wanted to do fusion, but we’re limited on space here. But we’ll bring Northern Indian flavors together and also have Indo-Chinese food.”
Sandhu remains a little guarded on full details, but shares that he has known Chef Singh personally for roughly a decade. The Denver-based importer first met him in China while traveling for work. “We want to give a change to the industry here,” he says, noting Singh is on a three-year contract to open and develop Mausam, reshape the business partners’ other venture, and likely launch a third concept in Denver in the coming years.
Mausam, by the way, means “season.” Media representatives for the eatery tell me the term holds some symbolic significance to the owners. “In India there are good dishes only possible to enjoy in certain seasons,” they say. “And being foodies, they have multiple times traveled to India in those seasons to enjoy that specific seasonal delicacy.”
Stay tuned to Mausam’s Facebook page for updates on that as well as a grand opening celebration tentatively planned for late April (after they lock down a liquor license). Meanwhile, if you missed it in my reporting prior, catch up on the earlier Michelin kerfuffle around Colorado last fall when the awards arrived in state for the first time, and not everyone was happy about the pay-to-play model for consideration.
Lulu’s Downtown grand opens, expands hours, still rocks
Lulu’s Downtown wants to be your after dinner spot. Whether you’re catching a music performance on site or you’re just in for a drink at the bar on an in-between night.
Though owner Marc Benning took occupancy in early February and held the venue’s first show on March 5, he’s just getting around to throwing a grand opening party on April 6. Catch an art sale (including relics from the former location) beginning at 5 p.m. followed by Mike Clark and the Sugar Sounds at 7 p.m. “I may or may not be playing with them,” he says jokingly. “I can’t confirm.” (He plays, bass, guitar and keyboards if you didn’t know.)
Lulu’s replaces Studio 32, having departed from its Manitou Springs location after Benning and his landlord failed to come to terms. The last performance there was Jan. 26. At that time, Benning says he thought Lulu’s was done. Then a Realtor friend reached out with a tip that the building owners at the corner of Tejon Street and Colorado Avenue strongly desired to have a music venue back in the spot. It was for a very brief stint Epiphany in 2022, but hadn’t been a dedicated stage space since 32 Bleu closed in 2004. (Relatedly, I worked at 32 Bleu during its opening year-plus and enjoyed a lot of great shows there; so Lulu’s arrival delights me personally.)
Lulu’s has only opened so far for seven show nights, but on April 2 it will begin regular hours as a bar destination too. It will close only on Mondays, and be open “4 to late” the rest of the week, with a few live performance nights on average, plus programming like Tuesday comedy open mic nights and more to come. “I’d like to get to where we’re open up until 2 a.m.,” Benning says, noting his incoming neighbors downstairs at Illegal Pete’s also have indicated to him that they wish to go late after they finally open in late April. (Something cool that I didn’t know: the restaurant has a Starving Artist program in which they feed traveling bands and crew for free — so Lulu’s guests will be able to chow downstairs gratis before gigs.)
“Shows do well for us if I book correctly,” says Benning, “but on nights that we don’t have them, we want to establish ourselves as a great bar, too.”
He calls Lulu’s “a good, solid, choice bar.” Like if you’re a whiskey drinker there’s four quality top-shelf labels rotating through at a given time plus respectable well options. They are completing an exclusive partnership with Red Leg Brewing for craft cans (four flagships and one seasonal) otherwise backed up by a couple N/A beers, a cider and White Claw. He confesses “wine is not our specialty” as it never sold well at the old spot; so it’s of the boxed variety here.
By design as a high-volume music venue with limited storage space, Benning says he intentionally doesn’t keep a deep back bar of top-shelf spirits. They batch cocktails for show nights to keep lines moving quickly, but he stands by his Old Fashioned being among the best around. “This is just a cool bar to have a drink in,” he says, noting you will be able to have a conversation without yelling, as DJ and house music will be kept at a sensible volume when there’s not live music. The decor features an eclectic mishmash of hip-thrift-store-style-found-artworks, mirrors, warm lamps and vintage music equipment. It very much feels like Lulu’s 2.0 — which it is.
I ask about the small kitchen space in back (that Epiphany created and Studio 32 quickly decommissioned) and Benning says “I’ll never do food again. I’m vocally anti-kitchen.” Things never quite dialed in right in that regard in Manitou Springs and it’s a distraction from his goals. “I just love a good bar and putting on shows,” he says. He’s looking to put in a vintage snack machine, but says to treat Lulu’s like going to see a show in Denver at the Bluebird Theater. In other words: patronize one of the many fine downtown eateries nearby before your concert.
Something commendably green about Lulu’s: on show nights Benning utilizes reusable rCups, meaning no plastic waste to landfills. They’re working on a plan to recycle cans too, calling it “the right thing to do.”
As much as Benning and many bands loved the former Lulu’s venue, he says “this location might be even better… I feel like we’re at a great growth moment. We’ve built great relationships with bands and booking agents and earned a lot of respect. Bands love playing our room because it sounds good, looks interesting and feels good.” He also likes the tiered layout (dance floor, raised platform/standing room, and upper seated area in front of the bar) and loves the view of the streets and downtown skyline out the tall bank of windows throughout. “The city moving by below as you’re watching a show adds to the experience.”
Talking more-humane livestock practices and better ways forward with Ranch Foods Direct
Ranch Foods Direct founder Mike Callicrate was recently featured as a guest on Trinity Vandenacre’s Life in the West podcast. Check it out if you missed my prior direction to it. Also, this is our final week of promotions on March’s Schip’s Pick at Ranch Foods Direct: Gather Food Studio’s divine recipe for Beef & Chickpea Tagine. The Moroccan dish calls for Gather’s fresh Tagine Spice blend plus Callicrate beef stew meat (as well as tallow and bone broth), available at both retail locations.
Fresh for this week, though, I asked Callicrate — an outspoken food activist known nationally — his thoughts on Chick-fil-A's announcement to "shift from No Antibiotics Ever (NAE) to No Antibiotics Important To Human Medicine (NAIHM) starting in the Spring of 2024." His response:
I was happy when it looked like we were working towards reducing antibiotic use in livestock production. Without continuous use of antibiotics, companies would be forced to treat animals more humanly, providing more space, perhaps even some sunshine. When companies like Tyson claimed to be antibiotic free, but didn’t change their production practices, we knew they weren’t being truthful. Faced with new highly sensitive testing, they are now forced to admit they are still using antibiotics as a crutch in supporting their highly industrialized, high-stress, inhumane methods of production.
Bites and bits
• Throwback story: The time I reviewed the food inside the El Paso County Jail.
• Grinder Sandwich Co. announced it will open its second location at North Carefree Circle and Tutt Boulevard sometime in April. (Its first is at 656 Peterson Road.)
• Bristol Brewing Co., after 30 years, finally got a canning line. And couldn’t stop taking pictures of it.
• Luchals-Fountain has a grand opening planned for April 19. The business still operates its original food truck for catering and also hosts a spot at COATI if you didn’t know. Chef Chantal Lucas was also a guest on my State of Plate podcast.
• As this newsletter was publishing last Friday, Focus on the Beer shared South Park Brewing’s Facebook post that they were moving to Colorado Springs to take over the former Smiling Toad Brewery at 2028 Sheldon Ave. They’ve been located in Fairplay for nearly a decade. The Gazette followed up with a piece later in the week, quoting owner Paul Kemp, who said that the company’s beers will stay the same. Regarding expanded food offerings, writer Stephanie Earls notes “… heartier pub fare, such as burgers, hand-breaded fried chicken, and sandwiches, prepared in an on-site food truck Kemp purchased to serve as the brewery’s kitchen.”
• What’s that? Why yes, thanks for noticing. Indeed I did add two new Side Dish T-shirt designs to my online merch store. (Thanks to Local Design Shop.) Purchases cover cost and fundraise just a few bucks for Side Dish. DM me on my social channels for a local’s promo code to save shipping (and pick up from me at a Sip with Schnip).
• Paid subscribers are already reading my reviews of Akarui Sushi & Wok and La Taquiza Cocina Mexicana. They’ll be free to read in mid May. 🍣🌮
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Tipperary Cocktail Parlor: Classic Cocktail Reinterpretation Dinner, April 4. Five-courses cooked by James Beard-nominated chef Brother Luck, $135.
• Blue Star Group: Have you tried BSG’s newest concept, Weber Street Kitchen at The Well? That’s also home to La’au’s Taco Shop. Through March’s end: buy any three empanadas at Lazo Empanadas and get a free pint of Bristol Brewing beer.
• The Carter Payne: Whiskey Church with Colorado Spirits Collective and 10th Mountain Whiskey & Spirit Co. April 3, 6:30-8:30 p.m. $35. New spring menu out! On draft right now: Blueberry Quad, Galaxy Hop Water, Oak-smoked table sour.
• Bristol Brewing Company: The Great Craft Beer Egg Hunt, March 31, 9 a.m. Hunt for Easter crowlers stuffed with swag/gift cards, hidden all over town. Prohibition Party, April 6, 7-10 p.m. Celebrate Prohibition’s repeal in Bristol’s makeshift speakeasy in the brewhouse and Barrel Room. Get dolled up in era-accurate attire and watch Bristol’s social channels password hints. (Both required to enter.) Enjoy 33¢ Yellow Kite pilsners, pilsner cocktails and swing dance lessons.
• Red Gravy: Meatball Mondays feature meatball sliders (only available that day) plus a meatball appetizer, meatball sub and spaghetti and meatballs, all at special pricing.
• Edelweiss: Last chance for March Flammkuchen specials. European Brunch Saturdays and Sundays, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. includes $5 mimosas and Bloody Marys. Happy hours in the Ratskeller Tuesdays-Saturdays, 4:30-6:30 p.m.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Trivia, April 3, 6-8 p.m. Singo Music Bingo, Retro 70s Vol. 3, April 4, 6-8 p.m. Have you tried Goat Patch’s Baaah-ley Wine yet?
• Wobbly Olive: Happy hours Monday-Friday, 4-6 p.m. Half-off all menu cocktails.
• Rasta Pasta: Wine Wednesdays feature two-for-one on all house wines. Generous pours of Big House Red Blend, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio.
• Odyssey Gastropub: Bottomless mimosas at Saturday and Sunday Brunch, 10-2.
Upcoming events
• April 1: Chismas Tea Party at Chiba Bar with Baon Supper Club and Bitter Glitters. Noon to 4 p.m. $75. Five courses paired with teas and cocktails include a Bahn Mi on Nightingale Bread baguette, chili de arbol and calamari braised pork onigiri and oolong banana cotta for dessert. (On guard for April Fool’s, I asked Chiba about the time and date on this one, and Chef de Cuisine Kalen Janifer says it has been partly created for “industry people that just worked the busy Easter weekend and brunches.” He notes “ lower ABV situation” on the cocktails plus N/A options.)
• April 4: Manitou Springs’ Wine Walk between the Manitou Winery, The Mona Lisa and Swirl Wine Bar. 5-9 p.m.; $55-$100.
• April 12: Meet the Maker series Castello Di Ama Wine Dinner at the Broadmoor’s Penrose Room. 6 p.m.; $300.
• April 13: Evergood Gold Release Party at Evergood Adventure Wines. 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; $5 (half of which benefits Tri-Lakes Cares). “Wine for whiskey drinkers.” House lemon wine (10% ABV) infused with French oak bourbon-infused staves for five months described as having an “oaky/smokey taste and sweet bourbon finish.”
Tri-Lakes Cares interviews Schniper
Taste of Tri-Lakes Cares approaches on May 15 at Spruce Mountain Events in Larkspur. The food bank’s signature fundraising event features delectable treats made by local chefs and a Chopped-style food competition utilizing food-pantry items. I’ll be judging the event and organizers are still seeking restaurants to participate. For their recent newsletter, Tri-Lakes Cares interviewed me. Here’s the Q&A:
Why did you decide to lend your expertise to the event? I write about the food and drink industry for a living. Restaurant reviews obviously cater to a demographic with disposable income — it's practically irrelevant to someone who's food insecure. In my reporting over the years, I've been made aware of food deserts in our city as well as our underserved communities. I care about the whole food ecosystem and the work that agencies like Tri-Lakes Cares does is vital to making sure we take care of everyone. Nobody should go hungry, especially with so much wealth around us.
Why did you decide to be a food critic? I worked in the industry for 10 years then managed to spin that into a journalism career. Part of the food and drink A&E beat is the news/reporting side, and the other part is criticism. I enjoy both. I like talking to new businesses when they open and sharing their stories with my readers. And I still enjoy writing critiques after 15-plus years. It's important to "police" the industry so to speak. But people want to know where to spend their hard-earned money. What's worth it and not. It's a utilitarian service to me, not a vanity project. In the end, it's all subjective anyway. But I have a loyal following that trusts my opinions vs. the dubious online reviews on sites like Yelp. With me, they get honesty, integrity, consistency.
How has the food scene changed in El Paso County in the last 5-10 years? We're on our way up. Slowly perhaps, but headed in the right direction. We trail behind Denver and bigger food cities when it comes to trends. But our scene has highlights across the board that make us excellent still. We have top-notch craft coffee and cocktails scenes. Some of our breweries are among the finest in the state. We host award winning distilleries. And a lot of our best food isn't relegated to the fine dining arena alone. There's excellent mom and pops and international spots in humble strip mall locations that are fantastic. That ranges from authentic Ethiopian and Korean to Japanese, Thai and true Mexican.
What do you look for in a great dish? Depth. Layers of flavor and flavor balance. Creativity. Passion. Beautiful presentation. But ultimately just good taste for whatever an item is. Simplicity is sometimes best. The joy of a perfect croissant, for example, as a textural treat. You know good pizza when you're eating it, and you know lackluster pizza when you're politely suffering through it. As in the visual art world, ideally, I want you to make me feel something. Excite me. Or comfort me.
If you could pick an unusual ingredient from our food pantry for our featured chefs to use in a recipe, what would it be and why? Pancake mix. When I visited your pantry, I happened to notice a lot of it around that week. I figure challenge a surplus item and see what else it can be stretched into — or perhaps an unusual style of pancake could be made with other food pantry items. Something unexpected.
What's the best meal you have ever had? I try not to do "best" in my vocabulary too much. I believe there's always something better out there waiting for you to find it. Likely through travel. It's like a sense of perfectionism that many chefs and artists have — they're never pleased, never satisfied — always pushing for a next horizon. Consider it a self-blessing, but I hope I never find the best, because it will keep me searching, seeking, longing, and experiencing some pretty great meals along the way.
Parting shot(s)
I attended District Elleven’s Whiskey Dinner of the Year last weekend which featured an extremely allocated lineup of coveted Sazerac whiskies. That included a robust Weller lineup (Special Reserve, CYPB, Single Barrel, Antique 107, Full Proof and 12-Year) plus the very pricey and hard-to-find Daniel Weller, William Larue Weller and Pappy Van Winkle 20-Year labels.
I asked both the local distributor and Sazerac brand rep on-hand for the evening about the estimated aftermarket cost of this whiskey array (i.e. people in online resale sites driving up prices on themselves constantly) and they estimated around $20,000. Wowsa! That’s why attendees paid $600 to get a pour from each bottle alongside a multi-course fine-dining meal. (Mercifully I was comped to be able to report on it and expand my own whiskey palate and greatest hits list. Thank you, District Elleven.) Bear in mind some of these bottles only go to one business in a whole city per year — that’s how rare we’re talking.
Rather than nerd out sip by sip — but seriously, how about that mint essence in the Single Barrel … just lovely — I will say my big takeaway for the whiskey enthusiasts out there who care is this: Daniel Weller is overhyped and overrated probably due to just how hard it is to obtain. I texted my whiskey expert pal (who helped prep me for my interview with Sazerac Master Blender Drew Mayville) and called the Daniel Weller an “underwhelming snooze fest” compared to the William Larue Weller — which I called “epic phenomenal” and “like an Energizer Bunny that just keeps going and going” with unfolding flavors across the palate for literal minutes. For me, it was even more memorable than the Pappy 20, which is still spectacular.
I don’t always perceive the tasting notes listed on everything from coffee bags to wine bottles to elaborate prix fixe menus (and sometimes ask if the writers were high at the time or just damned inventive), but many of the descriptors listed for the William Larue Weller hit dead-on. Here’s the full blurb:
Fragrant scents of caramel corn, new leather, plums, light toffee and pipe tobacco. The palate tastes of marshmallow, salted almonds, nougat, figs and dates. This whiskey finishes smooth, composed and flavorfully sweet.
I think I was most impressed somewhere around 40 seconds after a sip when the marshmallow came in strong, like out of nowhere, after a hot opening at 128-proof. Anyway, know this: What whiskey that remained in these bottles migrated to District Elleven’s back bar for the public to try. So if you’re feeling like ponying up for something special, you know my vote, but you can’t go wrong hitting anything off the list that you will have a damned-hard time trying ever again (at a reasonable price).
In closing, a shout-out to Chef Dustin Archuleta who absolutely crushed the food pairings with complementary flavors that played off whiskey’s mystique. He pulled out elements from classic whiskey cocktails as well as the whiskey aging process; flavors and aromas like citrus, oak, smoke, vanilla, etc.
Quick descriptors of what you’re seeing in the above slideshow video are: 1) Smoked lamb tenderloin tartare and smoked ricotta fritter with fennel pollen and nasturtium. 2) Chilean sea bass with dashi, oak smoke, charred cucumber, bokchoy and leek. 3) Mandarin segments and mandarin custard with touile. 4) Lamb loin with oyster mushrooms, cherries and Luxardo cherry jus. 5) Orange custard and aged Cabernet-macerated strawberries with liquid nitrogen-frozen yuzu foam. 6) Bunuelo with chocolate cremeux.
Any chef should be daunted by trying to match and play off the most lusted-after whiskey assembly around. But Archuleta pulled it off in style, with creative touches abounding and gorgeous presentations. It may have just been the whiskey talking (it wasn’t), but I actually turned around in my booth to tell owners Michael and Crystal Thompson, seated behind me, to “do whatever you have to do to keep this guy.”
Wow thank you for the fabulous in depth writing and keeping us up to date (in one place) on all the culinary happenings in our fine city. Cheers to you friend!