Travel itinerary
Westword's Food & Drink Editor on Denver's culinary scene now; all you need to know about wings in the Springs; cool spots that evoke NOLA + more food & drink news
*Borrowing the phrasing of my Substack colleague Corey Hutchins whenever he travels, I want to alert you that “this newsletter is on vacation mode” this week and next. As such, I’ve invited some subscribers, supporters and industry pals to contribute. I’m sharing the table, passing the mic and thanking them all for helping me take a short break after 20 months of continuous production. I’ll return soon, likely to share some travel insights as I reset my palate. If any big foodie news breaks I’ll cover it when I’m back, and count on you to fill me in. Cheers.
Five questions with Westword’s Food & Drink Editor Molly Martin on Denver’s culinary scene, including what’s hip, happening and worth driving for right now
1) Schniper: Who are you, what's your role at Westword, and how's Denver's alt-weekly handling food journalism these days, in the era of shrinking newsrooms and increased competition from digital media sources, ranging from influencers to independent writers like me?
Molly Martin: Big question! To take it back to the beginning, I was born on Long Island and spent my childhood living in a bed and breakfast that my parents owned in Southern Vermont before we moved to north central Florida when I was in middle school. I became a mom at seventeen and moved to Denver with my daughter in early 2005.
I got into food writing in 2013 while finishing my bachelor’s degree in English at Metro State. I got an (unpaid) gig doing a weekly brunch story for 303 Magazine — the very first one about bottomless brunch at Tamayo is still online, though I’m not really a “mimosa girl” anymore (I prefer to skip brunch and sip dirty martinis these days).
I did freelance writing for 303 (and eventually got paid) and then Thrillist on the side while working full-time in marketing until 2021. That year, I quit my job and was ready for something new when former Westword food editor Mark Antonation, who was on the job for seven years, decided to change careers, too. He’d navigated the food coverage at Westword through the pandemic, which was a devastating time for the restaurant industry — an impact that’s still being felt today. I’d been reading Westword since I arrived in Denver and I always admired Mark’s work, so when I got hired as the new food and drink editor, I was fucking nervous.
Add to that the factors you mentioned: shrinking newsrooms and the rise of food content in new, and more easily digestible, formats. I decided that my main goal at that time was to help uplift the recovering industry and remind readers about all the things we love about dining out by connecting with businesses old and new to share their deeper stories.
These days, our coverage includes recommendations, lists, industry news, trends, profiles, interviews and regular updates about what’s new, what’s closing and what’s coming next all over the metro area. My job is to keep our readers informed about the food scene. We put up at least sixteen food stories every week at westword.com, one or two of which also run in our still-free weekly print issue. Some of those I write and some are written by freelancers who offer their own expertise and perspectives.
I always like to clarify that I’m not a food critic. That doesn’t mean I’m not critical when needed, but I’m a food writer and editor. When I’m writing, storytelling is always the goal, even if it’s in the form of a blurb for a list. As an editor, I’m able to diversify our coverage with the voices of others and to curate the best content for our readers.
Westword hasn’t had a food critic since before the pandemic. There were plans to look for a new one, but then… we all know what happened. Since that time, we’ve had tons of discussions about whether we should, and if we did, how to bring one on. It’s a complicated question that could be a separate interview in itself, but Westword founder and editor-in-chief Patty Calhoun gave a talk on the topic in 2022 that’s worth a watch.
That being said, we did recently publish a review of sorts by a longtime contributor, Jake Browne, about a meal he had — not on assignment — at Brutø just before the 2024 Michelin guide was announced. It was a timely, topical, well-written story that I thought brought up some valid discussion points about one of the most high-end places to dine in the city. I’m open to publishing more stories like that in the future if the stars align (to note: Brutø did retain its star).
As for influencers, there’s no denying that they play a big role in the media landscape now, but it’s still such a murky field — which is why we recently started our Under the Influence series. Much like the state’s dining scene, the food media landscape is ever-evolving, but it’s worth noting that only the journalists working for local publications collect their paychecks from those publications and not the restaurants themselves or advertisers directly.
2) What are a few newer places that people from C. Springs should make the effort to drive up for soon? Who's really special right now?
Alma Fonda Fina, which just earned its first Michelin star. Johnny and Kasie Curiel have built something really special there. Ditto at Xiquita from chefs Ras Casiano and Rene Rene Gonzalez Mendez. The passion they all have for honoring their Mexican heritage and the depth of that country’s culinary history really comes through on every plate.
The same goes for MAKfam from Ken and Doris Wan (which just got Michelin Bib Gourmand status) and Sap Sua from Anna and Ni Nguyen, who are pushing culinary boundaries while loudly and proudly sharing their experiences as first-generation Asian Americans via their food and their voices.
3) The pay-to-play factor aside, it's nice to see Colorado finally in the mix for Michelin awards. They're coveted. As far as Denver's awardees, in your opinion are they spot on? Did they miss anyone you'd have put forward as a Mile High tastemaker? Do you have any other personal thoughts on the places you've been that won nods?
In my story after the awards were announced, I wrote that Michelin missed the mark — not because any of the places included are undeserving, but because there are so many great places that were left out!
My list of snubs — not necessarily for stars but at least a Bib Gourmand or recommended status, includes Sap Sua (which has gotten plenty of other national attention so they’re not sweating it but still!), Lucina (Xiquita’s sister restaurant), Spuntino, Molotov, Sushi Den, Major Tom, Somebody People, the Bindery, Wildflower and Marigold in Lyons (Michelin had said that all of Boulder County was eligible for consideration, after all).
4) Speaking from my own outside perspective, it seems different neighborhoods in Denver have popped at various times in recent years as the lively places to be. The Highlands, LoDo, near Wash Park, stretches of Colfax, etc. For those of us not following closely, where are the cool kids going today? Where's happening and why?
In Westword’s 2024 edition of Best of Denver, we named Highland the Best Neighborhood for Dining — which it last won in 2011. All of the neighborhoods you mentioned are great places to explore in Denver but there’s been a ton of solid additions in the Highland area over the last couple of years and it still has a lot of older favorites too.
New spots to check out: Kawa Ni for a little of everything, the sushi counter or late-night scene at Kumoya, all the dumplings and dim sum at Nana’s and the dark vibes and themed cocktails at the Devil’s Drink.
Some of my longtime favorites over there include Williams & Graham, the OG Denver speakeasy experience, or more low-key vibes at its sister bar Occidental next door (fun fact: I saw William H. Macy play ukulele at each of those spots this year).
I also love the Bindery, Bar Dough (its new chef is a badass), Noisette and one of the original farm-to-table spots, Duo.
5) Colorado Springs has often lived in Denver's shadow as far as being years behind food/drink evolution. To your knowledge, do Denver's chefs/restaurateurs look up to another place specifically to take cultural cues? Chicago, LA, New York? All of the above, and beyond? Or do you see points of originality in your scene that feel homegrown? Do foodie Denverites generally feel appreciative of being in a real food city, or like us, are they eyeing greener pastures elsewhere and failing to appreciate what's excellent in front of their faces? How would you describe your scene?
Denver has a mix of chefs who were born and raised here and those from all over the country and the world, particularly Mexico. That’s what makes the city such an exciting place to dine. But the scene is also rooted in a real appreciation for all things local — produce, meat, honey, grains, beer, whiskey, etc, and there are so many more producers for chefs to source from these days.
I think a lot of diners in Denver still compare it to places like Chicago, New York and San Francisco and find things to complain about. But palates seem to be getting more adventurous and people are hungry to be proven wrong. The Denver dining scene overall is in a time of transition. It’s true that a lot of older places have closed, and will continue to. Some people are ready to retire or just want a change, especially after four years of operations since COVID.
There are big challenges including still-rising costs for everything from food, supplies, rent and property taxes to labor. (Denver’s minimum wage increases have been particularly tough for restaurants within city limits.) We’re seeing more owners opting to open in suburbs and more “fine-casual” type of places, which helps operators better control labor costs.
There are plenty of bigger groups from out of state with deeper pockets moving in. Though some of those are upping the game and employ local talent who will probably, hopefully, open their own places down the line. There are also a lot of passionate people bringing fresh energy to the scene. It’s an interesting time to be a food writer in Denver covering an emerging scene that’s so full of change, but I’m excited to see what happens next.
* Special thanks to Molly for taking the time to do this Q&A with me for Side Dish. You can follow her work and stay up on Denver’s scene at Westword, but also via her Instagram page.
Goat Patch Brewing Red Ale Brats at Ranch Foods Direct
Our November Schnip’s pick collaboration recipe with Ranch Foods Direct comes to us this month via Chef Andrew Borek from Odyssey Gastropub and Nacho Matrix. It features Goat Patch Brewing red ale bratwursts made by Ranch Foods Direct. Chef Borek plates slivers of the cooked brats on a homemade flatbread with Brie cheese, fig jam and caramelized onions. It’s a sweet, rich treat that highlights the brats well. The dish is easily prepared at home, but you can of course also just throw these brats on the grill and eat them as you normally would. (We won’t tell Andrew.) Enjoy!
Wings in the Springs
Story and photos by Matt Sayar
They used to throw chicken wings away! Customers would order chicken and chefs in the kitchen would hack the wings off and just throw them in the trash. Maybe they saved them for stock? What a tragedy. Then one day in the ’70s in Buffalo, NY, several rowdy folks walked into Anchor Bar a few minutes before closing and demanded some food. In desperation, the owner threw some leftover wings in the still-hot fryer, then doused them in hot sauce before serving them to her patrons.
Is that actually true? The claims vary. What I know for sure is that I love Buffalo wings. It’s almost embarrassing how well-known I am as “The Wing Guy” among friends and acquaintances. And now that reputation led me here, where I’ve duped our favorite local foodie into asking me to write a whole column about wings in Colorado Springs. Clearly, I’m embracing the reputation.
The best wings in town
I won’t bury the lede: it’s Springs Wings. OK bye now, thanks for reading! When you go, tell them I sent you so maybe I can get a discount next time I go. I actually don’t visit too often because of the price. But it’s not their fault! Wings are expensive, and the prices fluctuate often. It’s the reason why lots of places push cheaper “boneless wings” aka chicken nuggets instead of “bone-in” aka normal wings. But boy is it worth every penny. Springs Wings nails the basics: their wings are a decent size, crispy, and have standard-but-perfectly-executed buffalo sauce. As a bonus they also have deliciously seasoned crispy fries.
The wings I get the most
Hatchcover still has wings for under a dollar apiece at only 75 cents per wing. Once upon a time, they were 50 cents per wing, and they mailed out coupons for 50% off your meal! I may or may not have ordered 40 wings for $10 with that coupon. The following month they mailed those same coupons with large, bold, red text stating it “EXCLUDES WINGS.” Sorry for ruining a good thing, everybody, but I promise I tipped really, really well. And now look, it’s paying off for them because I’m writing about it here! I focused a lot on the price here, but the wings are also pretty good. Decent size, good sauce, could be crispier, but the price-to-quality ratio forgives all.
Honorable mentions
• O’Malley’s - Incredible sauce, but the wings are on the smaller side
• Deluxe Wingz - Only reason I don’t go here more is because it’s carryout only, which means eating in your car otherwise the wings will be soggy by the time you get home
• O’Furry’s - Oh hey another Irish name. Giant wings, good sauce, and I prefer the traditional wings over their “double dipped” specialty stuff
Dishonorable mentions
I don’t understand why people get wings at Wingstop, Buffalo Wild Wings, or fast-food pizza joints. I kinda get B-dubs because I also enjoy sports, but Wingstop is a full-stop for me. Pizza joints make over-sauced, non-crispy wings that are a disappointment every single time. Pizza places don’t have fryers! They deliver wings in foil-lined boxes! Crispy wings NEVER stand a chance sitting in a steamy box before they get to your house. That said, I recently discovered Joey's NY Pizza in Templeton Gap with very good wings… just don't get them delivered. So consider my dishonorable mentions to only include nationwide pizza chains. And speaking of fryers, let’s talk about how to make great wings at home without a fryer.
How to make your own amazing wings
I make amazing wings. Ask any of my friends. Or enemies. There’s a LOT of wing recipes out there, but I’ve boiled it down to two different methods: the easy-and-good way, or the laborious-but-better way. The vast majority of the time, I’m doing it the easy-and-good way because it perfectly nails the labor-to-quality ratio of being delicious without a ton of work. Plus it’s essentially just grilled chicken, which is healthy for you!
The easy-but-good way
Up to 24 hours before you cook, prep your wings by drying them out in a bowl with a paper towel at the bottom. Put the bowl in the fridge.
Get your grill hot with all the burners on high.
Put the wings on the grill, nicely spaced out. Close the lid.
Flip them every five minutes (about four/five times) until they look like this:
Toss them in your favorite sauce and enjoy! Don’t overthink the sauce; even just a bottle of Frank’s Buffalo is pretty great.
The laborious-but-better way
These are the wings I’d enter into a competition. I can’t believe I’m out here spilling secrets, but here we go:
Up to 24 hours before you cook, prep your wings by drying them out in a bowl with a paper towel at the bottom. Put the bowl in the fridge.
2+ hours beforehand, season them with your favorite BBQ chicken seasoning.
Fire up a charcoal smoker and start cooking your wings in the 275F-300F range.
After half an hour, flip em, then give them another half hour on the smoker.
Get a separate grill hot, all burners on high.
Put the wings on, and pull them off when the wings are crispy (10-ish minutes).
Enjoy them as-is, or toss them in a buffalo sauce.
Buffalo wing festivals
In 2001, the movie Osmosis Jones released, and in that movie Bill Murray says he’s traveling to Buffalo, NY for the Buffalo Wing Festival. Before that movie was released, that festival didn’t even exist! Fortunately, the city rectified that situation the following year. But you don’t have to go to New York for a wing fest because we have one right here in Colorado Springs! Best of the West Wing Fest usually takes place in September, and it’s getting better every year. (Mr. Schniper even chatted with the founders recently.) Over in Huntsville, Alabama, I helped my fraternity start the Battle of the Buffalo. What began as a bunch of folding tables on top of a parking garage in 2009 has turned into a premier downtown event raising hundreds of thousands of dollars for cancer research. Proud of what those guys have achieved!
Final factors
Ranch or Bleu Cheese? Ranch, and it’s not even close. Flats or Drums? If you don’t like flats it’s because you don’t know how to eat them.
Reminds me of home: Finding NOLA in the Springs
Story and photos by Victoria Amato
I love dining in Colorado Springs — discovering old haunts and celebrating new arrivals to the ever-growing culinary culture in the city. But as a transplant, I can’t help but crave the unique and globally-recognized flavors of my home in South Louisiana. Typically when that old familiar “envie” hits, I’ll invite friends over and cure my cravings with a homemade pot of red beans and rice or my cousin Brandon’s Jambalaya, among other Cajun and Creole delicacies.
I’ve had the honor of sharing my love of southern cooking with friends around the country for many years, but no matter how the flavors of my grandmas’ Deep South recipes bring me home, I never get as delighted as when I unassumingly walk into an eatery or bar — far away from “the swamps” — and the ambience of that spot transports me home to New Orleans. It’s a magical feeling that typically incites a little happy dance and subsequently leads me to ramble on to fellow foodies about why that city’s worth visiting. And if the cocktail list is good, it may even bring out my (very Cajun) accent, rarely heard nowadays outside of phone calls with my folks and too-rare visits home, or in this case after too many libations had over good conversation.
These three spots in the Springs remind me of home and have a New Orleans vibe in some way. They feed my Southern soul. And they’re outstanding enough that they should feed you, too. Laissez les bon temps rouler!
1. Shuga’s
The first time I dined at Shuga’s, I knew I’d found my home away from home. The atmosphere is eclectic and artsy — comfy, not overly-lit and chock-full of nostalgic New Orleans-esque details like old swivel bar stools and well-worn wooden floors. Strolling into the café actually feels like I've stumbled upon a cool NOLA neighborhood house party. And the courtyard dining “out back” may as well have been plucked from The Garden District with its wild flowers, wrought-iron mix of furnishings and weirdly random decor. I’m always just waiting for a second-line brass band to march on through. Shuga’s food and drinks are simply delicious. And simple. Never over thought or too “floofy” — just a menu of ultra-consistent, delicious staples crafted with high-quality ingredients that keep me coming back. Try their “famous” Spicy Brazilian Coconut Shrimp Soup for a cayenne kick reminiscent of Cajun cooking, and wash it down with the Bang Bang cocktail, a luxurious combination of vodka, kaffir lime, coconut, ginger and more. Chef’s kiss perfection!
NOLA locals know that the best spots to eat in New Orleans are not always in the French Quarter, but nestled among the mossy oak trees and shotgun houses of the old weather-worn neighborhoods. Stellina Pizza Café, sweetly situated in the Mid Shooks Run neighborhood, is like a little New Orleans-style hidden treasure. It’s separated from the hustle of downtown, calm and bright with a charming outdoor patio and surrounded by many early-1900s Craftsman homes. It feels otherworldly in Colorado Springs in the best possible way. And while New Orleans may not necessarily be famous for its dynamite pizza, the city celebrates a rich Italian heritage, and the very best Italian spots take pride in crafting their pastas and sauces from scratch. Expect no less from this neighborhood jewel. Stellina’s small, seasonal menu of handmade pastas and pizzas are served piping hot and fresh, with a passion of flavor that literally evokes an audible “mmmm” at first bite. Mangia bene! Nonna would approve.
3. The Archives Underground Libations
New Orleans was a prominent city during Prohibition and speakeasies were a thriving part of the city’s social scene. That seedy and exciting history still influences so much of the essence of the NOLA bar scene, and seems to have also influenced a local favorite (secret) spot in the Springs. Discreetly tucked beneath Colorado Craft downtown, Archives nails that dark, low-ceiling, sexy speakeasy vibe. Settle at the bar to experience some fascinating (sometimes flaming) mixology or cozy up in a dark corner to sip and nosh in nostalgic style. The lengthy seasonal drink menu spans the eras, and scrolling through the menu itself is akin to sifting through maw maw’s family heirloom cookbooks. Fascinating attention to detail makes this place my NOLA-feeling standout among COS speakeasy spots!
And for delicious Cajun flavors in the Springs, check out:
• Chef Rob's Soul Food & Seafood Food Truck for absolutely incredible Southern-fried chicken wings and more.
• The Juicy Seafood for their fried catfish basket, a heaping portion of yummy, deep-fried catfish fillets with fries for under $15! (Ask for sides of both tartar and cocktail sauce and some fresh lemon for squeezing.)
• Marigold Café & Bakery for authentic French bread, baked fresh. Use it for DIY poboys or just roll the paper back and bite in.
• Gold Star Bakery for a delectable Bourbon Pecan Pie, a South Louisiana dessert staple, perfect for the holiday season.
• Creole Roots Caterer/Food Truck for their Green Chile Chicken Étouffée, a hybrid NOLA/COLO recipe with nice spice and deep earthy flavors. (Contributed by Schnip.)
If you missed it…
Here’s a few recent reviews for you to peruse:
• Restaurant Arelita Cuban cuisine
Find a complete archive of reviews, plus some travel features, here.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Kangaroo Coffee: Did you know our organic coffee hails from co-ops in Mexico, Peru, Guatemala and Honduras. The Kanga Brew, our house label, is a true medium-dark roast, while the Hillside Blend, exclusive to that location, is a medium roast. Come for a cuppa drip or our signature lattes. You can also enjoy our blends or single origins shipped to your home or office via our e-commerce site.
• Odyssey Gastropub: We’re participating in Vegan Restaurant Week through Nov. 10. Serving vegan items from our current menu (sesame-mushroom wontons, veggie tartar, crispy Brussels, Thai curry) with and a special feature entrée.
• The Carter Payne: Join us for our Vegan Spectacular: A Community Dinner, Nov. 9, 5:30 p.m.; five drink-paired courses, $75. Member (and Member-Curious) Mixer, Nov. 14, 5:30-8:30 p.m.; $25 includes dinner, with drinks available for purchase. Book now for our Nov. 22 Deep Dive Dinner: The Flavors of South East Asia.
• T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila: Our Third Wednesday monthly Tequila Tasting Series continues Nov. 20, 6 p.m. $25 gets you a 1-ounce pour from three tequila varietals plus snack bites from Chef Dustin Archuleta.
• Red Gravy: Our Sunday Supper Club has returned. Nov. 10 features four wine-paired courses (all gluten-free) that include smoked salmon, duck confit, beef short ribs and Grand Marnier souffle. $125 inclusive. Can’t make this one? We got you: reserve early for upcoming dinners, second Sundays monthly.
• Bristol Brewing Company: All the fall flavors are packed inside our Give Back Mix Pack: roasted local pumpkins, beech-smoked German malt and roasted piñon nuts. And we donate 100% of profits back to the outdoors and the arts in our community through the Friends of Cheyenne Cañon, Smokebrush Foundation for the Arts and local legend Venetucci Farm.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Taproom Session with John Spengler, 5-7 p.m., Nov. 8. CC Hockey Night in the Taproom, Nov. 8 (7-9 p.m.) and 9 (6-8 p.m.). Veterans Day 5k with Colorado Brewery Running Series, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., Nov. 10. Bleating Heart Night benefitting Angels of America’s Fallen, 5-9 p.m., Nov. 11.
• The French Kitchen: We’ve released three new mini cakes: apple fritter, lemon-zucchini, and pumpkin-chocolate chunk. Also, preorder your Beaujolais Nouveau now and attend one of our Beaujolais Nouveau classes, Nov. 21-23.
• Edelweiss: Goulash soup is now every Monday. We now have Weihnachtsstollen (Christmas Stollen) and Christmas cookies available through year’s end. Make your Thanksgiving reservations now: traditional turkey dinner with all the fixings as the daily special, $35, plus a limited dinner menu for those who don’t want turkey.
• Wobbly Olive: Half-priced cocktails from our full menu during happy hours, 4-6 p.m., Mondays through Fridays, at both locations. You can’t beat that.
• Ascent Beverage: Hit up Shame & Regret and ask for a Jackson Hole Great Grey Gin in a Corpse Reviver No. 2 cocktail.
• Eleven18 Latin Tapas Bar: Two words: Seafood Tower. $110 includes a dozen oysters, shrimp cocktail, lobster tail and crab legs. Caviar upcharge optional. Other seafood options include octopus ala plancha and steamed mussels. Thanksgiving Dinner Tutorial classes run through Nov. 20.
• Blue Star Group: Gold Star Bakery's Holiday Pie Fest is here! Featuring flavors like Dutch Apple, Bourbon Pecan and Classic Pumpkin plus brownies, bars, and cookies. Pre-order by Nov. 18 for pick-up on Nov. 27, noon to 5 p.m. at Ivywild Gym. Buy 7, Get 1 Free. Stellina Supper Club’s Friendsgiving Edition is also Nov. 18. Five courses, $75, with optional suggested wine pairings. See the menu and learn more here.
• Rasta Pasta: Our daily happy hour from 3-5 features $3 Red Stripes, $4 rum punch and $5 wines and munchies.
Upcoming events
• Nov. 8: Grand Reopening of ICONS.
• Nov. 9: Gingerbread & Jazz Gala at Flying W Ranch. 6 p.m.; $125 includes fine food and drinks, live music and the Gingerbread Masterpiece Challenge. Proceeds benefit the children of Early Connections Learning Centers.
• Nov. 18: Miracle Bar Christmas Cocktail Pop-Up at Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar launches for the season.
• Nov. 21: Sip With Schnip at Kangaroo Coffee’s Hillside Coffee House (319 S. Hancock Ave.). 5-9 p.m., with performance by The Story Lounge. More details on special programming to follow.
• Nov. 23: Chili Cook-Off at Chuckwagon 719. Noon to 3 p.m.; $25 entry fee to participate; cash prizes for winners. (I’ll be co-judging.)
Parting shot(s)
Surprise! I uploaded some photos from the road right before this post was timed to publish. These were all taken on the Portuguese Island of São Miguel, Azores. Details to follow on some of what you’re seeing here. Disclosure: One of these photos is a joke — can you guess which one? (Easy, I know.)
