Forest for the pastries
Forest for the pastries
Evergreen offers lush European vibe in former La'au's nook; Carter Payne pivoting to events; Inefable on hiatus to relocate; a bully beef bulgogi recipe; psychedelic tortillas + more food/drink news
Evergreen opened a couple weeks ago in the former La’au’s Taco Shop space, on the south edge of the Colorado College campus at 830 N. Tejon St. We dined this past weekend for an early look at it, and I’ll say prepare to be charmed and surprised.
The owners behind the venture have been operating La Belle Melange pastries over the past year and they bring a notably European flair and sensibility to the small cafe. Which is to say rigorous standards for what they see as excellence, starting with outstanding gourmet desserts and translating all the way through manual-press coffee service. They tell me their extensive travels inform the eclectic menu, which also sports Turkish coffee and Asian influences on some plates and in cocktails. (Yes, they opened with a liquor license ready to go, and will be expanding boozy offerings.)
All the design is quite chic and items are well curated, down to thin, stone, Germany-sourced charger plates set at the tables and fine, double-wall glassware for coffee and tea drinks. Obviously, there’s faux greenery everywhere, but in a fresh way that’s not just another imitation living wall with a neon sign set into it. Here, it’s more like dining under a mossy fern and kelp forest, which feels uniquely cozy. There’s also a wide patio half covered by an oversized sun shade.
Though they prepare items like French crêpes, shakshuka and light salads from scratch, they do buy certain items that they mindfully curate. That includes imported Turkish baklava (every three days, they say), croissants from Denver and coffee beans roasted from a small craft outfit in Portland. They’re a little secretive about their exact sourcing, choosing to operate a little behind the scenes themselves as well.
We’re told they aim to ramp up their own pastry offerings as early business picks up, and I can tell you now that’s the highlight of a visit. Clearly, with La Belle Melange, they’ve had time to refine some fantastic recipes, and they say each dessert takes up to three days to be made. (You know with baking how there’s times you need to rest, proof or freeze something before the next step.) They emphasize only natural ingredients (even bringing out a bag of real vanilla pods to show us, which is what their standards demand). And they make sure to point out that’s why the desserts aren’t cheap at $9.50; they can’t be.
We find our “coffee bean” totally worth it. It’s the size of a cake slice but molded to look like a giant-sized coffee bean (hence the name, duh — there’s also a big yellow “banana” pastry on that note). What’s inside is a caramel creme brûlée sponge cake coffee mousse. That’s exactly how they described it to me, although it sounds like three desserts in one. Call it three techniques in one. It’s crazy good, especially with a side of potent Turkish coffee for bitter counterbalance to the sweetness.
As for other relevant details, Evergreen is finalizing plans for discounts to attract military and first responders and figuring out how to incentivize student and campus patronage. They also told us about a monthly subscription they intend to launch, whereby guests would pay a fixed fee to attain deep discounts during their visits, to offset the upfront investment cost. Updated hours since launching are 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m.
The Carter Payne announces pivot from à la carte restaurant to special event venue
If you didn’t yet see it on the socials, Side Dish Dozen member The Carter Payne (helmed by Chef Brent Beavers, who I worked for long ago) announced their transition away from their a la carte restaurant service and towards events, both public-facing and corporate/social/private. Co-owner Jeff Zearfoss says "If the sun is our energy, our passion, and our creativity, it isn't burning any less brightly that before. But as we've focused so much energy on the restaurant, it's pulled us away from our passion, which is creating curated, spectacular and memorable events. We're excited to get back to where we came from." Acknowledging that "restaurants aren't easy,” Zearfoss says while financial considerations certainly weighed in on the decision, it's a decision that was driven by their desire to get back to their roots as a place for gathering, celebration, and community.
I sat down with Beavers and Zearfoss over beers (because, of course) and we spoke at length about their plans ahead as a rededicated event space. I’ll have a feature story on that next week, just ahead of our special homecoming/sendoff Sip with Schnip Patio Party on Thursday, Aug. 15. Please mark your calendar to join us and special guest Frost Livestock, who’ll host a mini farmers market and contribute Fountain-raised meats and vegetables to our special menu.
Beef Bulgogi with Ranch Foods Direct and Chef’s Roots
I’m so excited to finally present this month’s Ranch Foods Direct Schnip’s Pick recipe with our guest chef Supansa Banker of personal chef and catering business Chef’s Roots! I met with Banker in early July to photograph her beef bulgogi dish, and I’ve been quietly sitting on the recipe ever since, desperate to share it. People: You’ve gotta make this one this month. It’s super easy to execute (just click on the image link and you’ll be directed to a short grocery list that includes Callicrate top sirloin) and incredibly delicious. Banker is originally from Thailand and she graduated from Pikes Peak Community College with a culinary degree. She’s cooked at many prominent spots in town and earned wide adoration from her peers. She’s most recently been working to get a food truck launched, to take Chef’s Roots to the road. Keep an eye out. And as I said, do make time to make this recipe this month. Cheers!
Inefable goes on hiatus to relocate soon
Though it only opened upstairs at Avenue 19 food hall in mid December, 2023, Chef Fernando Trancoso’s passion project Inefable is already seeking to relocate. On a Facebook post last week (not long after Side Dish published), Trancoso announced his final day of service at the current spot will be Aug. 3. He’s not yet disclosing the new location. (I know it, but you won’t even be able to tickle it out of me. Because as a friend once joked, “loose lips sink Schnips.”)
Inefable aims to be back up and running in 90 days, he says, telling me that the major factor inspiring the move is less than desired foot traffic upstairs at Avenue 19. While the town has grown accustomed to venturing upstairs at COATI to Ephemera by contrast, Trancoso says he heard too many complaints from people who expressed difficulty finding Inefable and parking. (Me talking: People gripe all the time online about parking downtown, saying it’s why they don’t venture down to dine, though our garages are easily accessible and quite affordable compared to Denver and big cities. And one is located directly adjacent to Avenue 19 for very convenient access. I hesitate to say “ridiculous” here, but, well, I guess I just did. Come on, people!).
Trancoso says the new space will offer free and easy parking, with this in mind. But the chef is also giving Avenue 19 a go in another form, despite his past challenge. He says that while Inefable’s relocation is underway, he’ll relaunch Tepex (originally a food truck) as a stopgap food kiosk downstairs at the food hall. “In the meantime, people can find me making tacos,” he says, joking that he’s calling it Tepex Otra Vez (which translates to “once more” or another time, essentially). That should be up and running by late next week.
I should note that though business has been slow for Inefable, which does command a high price point with entrées between $27 and $45, it has received widely excellent reviews and acclaim from the many chefs I know who dine there. (And let’s not forget it was included in the New York Times’ 36 Hours in Colorado Springs article.) I happened to dine the week prior to Trancoso’s announcement, with the intent to publish a food review. That seems ill-timed now, given the long break ahead, but I would still like to relay some brief details by way of saying Inefable is worth the wait.
Our cocktails, developed for Trancoso by Jesus Hernandez (who Trancoso says regularly works at the Garden of the Gods Resort), were outstanding. The gin-based Rufino, with Serrano-cilantro syrup, tasted like salsa verde in a glass in a good way. The reposado and mezcal Zenaida, mixed with Ancho Reyes and guava, was a smoky stunner with perfect fruit balance and flavor.
Need a holy shit dish in your day? Get the duck flautas off the appetizer list, topped in a deeply satisfying salsa macha. Ever had bone marrow in a Mexican restaurant? It’s fantastic, served with umami-gifting mushrooms and a build-your-own-bite medley of black bean purée, crispy chicharrón (itself seasoned with pastor pork belly that carries a faint hint of clove) and chile de arbol sauce, which provides a welcome and wonderful acid offset.
We share the hulking cochinita pibil, plated atop sharp xnipek relish, with its fat bone overhanging a smear of black beans. The tender pork falls apart with light touches of the fork, glistening with achiote jus that serves the rich meat flavor, not distracting or overpowering. Even the accompanying rice grabs our attention. Trancoso tells us it’s his mother’s recipe. Amazing how something so simple can be so much better than an average version.
We finish with pastry chef Ness Ramirez’s artfully presented coconut-macadamia tart (the crust darkened by charcoal) and her passionfruit semifreddo, paired with a pecan blondie and mixed berry coulis. Both plates have vibrantly colored tuiles for garnish. These desserts are among the finest in town right now.
I’m not surprised by the overall excellence of the meal. Trancoso, originally from Aguascalientes, Mexico, has been consistent since he arrived in the Springs just a few years ago. He came from Santa Fe’s fine dining scene and he’s also a sommelier. Amusingly enough, he tells us he doesn’t think of himself as a chef, but “a huge foodie who loves to cook.”
I’m sorry, amigo, but bullshit. You’re a chef. There’s humility, and there’s absurdity. Those of us who’ve tasted your food know which one this is.
As a last teaser for now, we ask Trancoso where he likes to dine out in Colorado Springs. Though he doesn’t get much time to, he says his go-to’s are Luna Market for tripas tacos and Carnicería Leonella for caldo de res. If you aren’t familiar with them, they’re both Hispanic grocery stores with deli components, centrally located (on and just off South Academy Boulevard). Check them out if you’re seeking authenticity. Meanwhile, hit up Tepex at Avenue 19 to support Trancoso’s overall efforts.
Bites & Bits
• Fork & Gavel opens on Aug. 5 in the El Paso County Courthouse basement. (Take that, jury duty!) It’s an offshoot of Porkbutt BBQ, itself located at 2220 Academy Place. Porkbutt only launched in early 2023 as a food truck, so it’s growing rapidly. My former food colleague from the newspaper days, M.B. Partlow, messaged me recently to ask if Porkbutt is on my list. (Yes, it is!) Anyway, she said “The brisket is magical, and probably the best pulled pork I've ever had in Colorado! And try the bourbon banana pudding! Everything they have, including pies, are gluten-free.” As for what Fork & Gavel will offer, Porkbutt, on its Facebook page, says “It's a quick-serve café and deli, with lots of grab-n-go options. We will also offer catering to the local businesses downtown… we will be carrying Boar's Head in our deli. Our facility will not be dedicated gluten-free, but we will have gluten-free options!”
• Happy Eats Pasta, launched locally as a food truck, opens in brick-and-mortar form at 1536 S. Nevada Ave. on Aug. 3 (serving from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.) Take a quick video tour through the bright, newly renovated space here. The spot specializes in a build-your-own-pasta concept and also serves an array of apps, sandwiches and salads. They have a liquor license for beer and wine, and also offer catering.
• Fern’s Diner + Drinkery announced last week that it will be closing after service on Aug. 11. The vegan eatery, located along the Pikes Peak Highway in Cascade, is the sister outfit to Burrowing Owl. As for the reason sited, the outfit wrote on its Facebook page: “We have tried everything we could to get enough business to make it a success. With 5 stars across the board, we can only blame location.” They note that the property and diner are up for sale.
• Also in vegan news this past week: Chef Aaron Posey of The Joint (at Avenue 19) announced on his Instagram page that he would no longer be organizing COS Vegan Restaurant Week. In a thoughtful and detailed explanation, he broke his reasoning into three categories: relationships, staff and expectations. In the first, he noted negative feedback that the annual event “hurts the few all-vegan restaurants we have here, and is just a money grab for the participating omni establishments.” Regarding staff, he needs to place his full focus on The joint and “this amazing staff, to show up for them the way they do for me every single day.” And regarding expectations, he shares an inspiring realization that “I can say no to things, I can prioritize myself without fear of judgment or failure, and that it's actually necessary in order for me to be a happy, supportive, consistent, and ultimately successful human.” He concludes with a “no-pressure open invitation” for the community “to take it from here” should they wish COS Vegan Restaurant Week to live on.
• For the month of August only, Meow Wolf and Illegal Pete’s are collaborating at all Pete’s locations to offer the “Portilla” (a portmanteau of “portal” and “tortilla”). The all-natural, tie-dyed tortillas made by Colorado Tortilla Co. can be ordered on burritos, tacos or quesadillas. A press release calls it “a burst of visual delight to the culinary experience,” equating to “the Meow Wolf treatment.” Illegal Pete’s owner Pete Turner — who I interviewed here back in April — is quoted as saying they’ve made something together “just for fun.” While a Meow Wolf spokesperson says “Meow Wolf and Illegal Pete’s share similar ethos in our commitment to community and creativity. This creative partnership was a way to solidify our mutual dedication to sparking joy.” Guests can also buy exclusive merch: “trippy limited-edition t-shirts and stickers that depict a reality that’s equally Illegal Pete’s and Meow Wolf.”
• 503W owners Nina Lee and Rollie and Emilio Ortiz have taken over the contract at Valley Hi Pub and Grill. The team is underway with light renovations and a full menu change, which will debut sometime closer to fall.
• Crooked Cue Lounge has opened in the former Tattered Cover space at 112 N. Tejon St., and will be open as a late-night destination, until 1:30 a.m. daily. The venture arrives on the scene via restauranteur Joe Campana, whose downtown portfolio includes Rabbit Hole, Supernova, Bonny and Read. The pool hall’s menu includes apps (from meatballs to vegan stuffed mushrooms), pizzas (with vegan and GF options) and a full bar. In addition to the Diamond Pro-Am pool tables, guests can play darts, pinball and shuffleboard.
• “Everyone at The Broadmoor likes to spoil people,” says Summit Chef de Cuisine Rocio Neyra Palmer. If you missed last week’s teaser for our latest Tap&Table podcast episode (I’m not sure why you would have, but stranger things have happened), then tune in sometime this week. One of my favorite parts of this episode: hearing each chef (Palmer, Randi Powell and Tia Allen) pick their favorite dishes to eat right now on property, plus shout out some of their personal faves around town.
• Lightning struck a spruce tree right outside NEAT Whiskey House last week. As described by them on Facebook: “It traveled through the fence, tearing it apart, and blew a hole in our building. Thankfully everyone is safe!”
• Support your local growers and ranchers. Check out Visit COS’ handy online guide.
• And the award for most sexualized (and hilarious) promotional content goes to … Streetcar520!
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• The Carter Payne: Book early for one of our favorite dinners of the year, our Harvest Dinner on Sept. 21. We source intentionally all year, but September is peak season for all things local. Chef Brent will create a five course menu featuring the bounty of the local harvest.
• Red Gravy: Gatherings of family and friends? Let Red Gravy do the cooking. Our Family Meal feeds 4-6 people. Choose a salad and a pasta. Have more people? You can buy as many as you need and offer different options. And we deliver via Door Dash!
• Odyssey Gastropub: We are using Odyssey as a test kitchen for our upcoming Nacho Matrix menu. We’re offering a free item daily to solicit feedback. Fill out a comment card and get entered to win two tickets to Nacho Matrix’s soft opening, soon(ish). This week ahead, expect a rotation of refried bean dip and queso testers.
• Four by Brother Luck: Featuring The State That Almost Was cocktail, spotlighting Ascent Beverage-distributed Absoroka Barrel-Aged Gin with Averna Amaro and black walnut bitters. Ascent’s James Wieker says “it’s a beautiful balance of bitter and smooth that starts a touch sweet but finishes with the barrel-aged gin essence — the black walnut almost gives it a very subtle hint of root beer.”
• Blue Star Group: Start the year off on a good note by sending the kiddos to class with a treat for their teacher. Gold Star Bakery is running a special order for our scratch-made, crumble-topped Dutch Apple Pies. Order before end of the day, Aug. 3, for pickup at Ivywild School Aug. 14. Also, check our social pages for details on our Blue Star Group Five Card Draw Summer Games promotion and (maybe) win prizes.
• The French Kitchen: National Chocolate Chip Cookie Day Aug. 3 only. Check out our Taste of August specials: Cherry Cobbler Queenet, Korean BBQ Quiche and Green Tomato Gazpacho. Buy ’em separate or order as a bundle for $48.99 and get a free baguette. Also, we’re still selling our loaded French Hot Dogs through Labor Day.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Calamansi Pale Ale release, 5 p.m., Aug. 2. Summer Music Series: Father Bacon and the Sizzle, 6-8 p.m., Aug. 4 Bleating Heart Night, 5-9 p.m., Aug. 6, benefitting Harley’s Foundation. Beer Thirty Goat Yoga, 6-7 p.m., Aug. 8.
• Kangaroo Coffee: We're rolling out our Cold Foam this week and introducing a few new 1883 Maison Routin syrups to top it off. And speaking of the French (hint), stayed tuned as we conspire with another Side Dish Dozen member for some new, tasty offerings from their Kitchen (second hint) this September! Meanwhile, stop by and grab a KC beverage at Weidner Field on Saturday during the match.
• Bristol Brewing Company: Our Summer School series with x1039 wraps up this month. This is your last chance to come out to our beer garden and barrel room, every Thursday from 5-7 p.m., to play games and win tickets to those end-of-summer concerts, or maybe a year of free beer at Bristol!
• Allusion Speakeasy: Make it in for the Super Mario theme. We enjoyed the hell out of it. And yes, with habanero tequila, that is one Angry Sun (cocktail)!
• Edelweiss: Come in for one of our summer cocktails like a basil-gin made with Absaroka aged gin, plus a Lillet berry spritzer. Enjoy one on our dog-friendly patio.
• Rasta Pasta: Our customers love our garlic bread. (Like, a lot.) Order six pieces with your choice of dipping sauce — marinara, rosé sauce or Caribbean Curry sauce — for $7-$8. Our “munchies” menu also features Island Chips & Salsa, vegan and GF.
• District Elleven: Join us for Happy Hour, 4-6 p.m. Tuesdays to Fridays, where you’ll find $6 tapas, $6 wines, an $8 Old Fashioned, $5 wells and $4 beers.
Upcoming events
• Aug. 2: Passport Angel Heart at Fuel & Iron Food Hall. 4-9 p.m. $20 includes three small plates, a cocktail and a $5 donation to Project Angel Heart.
• Aug. 3: Andrew’s Last Word at District Elleven. Help send one of the Springs’ most talented bartenders, Andrew Alverson, off in style. He’s leaving the industry “to go to insurance of all things,” and the D11 crew are making special menus for the occasion. (They’re even raffling tickets to see who gets to shave Andrew’s mustache.)
• Aug 3: Colonel Mustard’s Sandwich Emporium Fourth Anniversary, also in celebration of National Mustard Day. 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Come for mustard tastings, raffles and trivia and an “incredibly realistic sub sandwich “Is It Cake?!” served with our world famous mustard ice cream.”
• Aug 4: Señor Manuel employee “Benny-fit” at Benny’s Restaurant & Lounge. 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.. Proceeds from raffles and a silent auction will go to the staff furloughed by the recent fire at the restaurant, caused by an electrical malfunction. The legacy eatery has been in continual operation since 1970, now under its fourth generation of family ownership.
• Aug. 5: National Oyster Day at Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar. Honoring its 30th anniversary, Jax is offering their proprietary CrackerJax oysters on the half shell “at their OG 1994 price of just 50 cents apiece!” (Deal runs 4-6 p.m. and is limited to the first 700 sold.) Jax is also screening Olympic coverage for guests.
• Aug. 10: Grand open of After Dusk at Salad or Bust. (Remember, I told you about it in my Bites & Bits section here last week.)
• Aug. 15: Sip with Schnip Patio Party with Local Relic and Frost Ranch at The Carter Payne. Equal parts homecoming and sendoff, we’re going to throw down with the boys from Fountain’s Frost Livestock with a mini farmers market and Frost ingredients featured on the menu. Chef Brent will grill Frost lamb and beef burgers and vegetables; Local Relic will sling their beers and The Carter Payne will mix up a fun selection of Ranch Water cocktails, to include a classic, a raspberry-hibiscus infused and a spicy serrano variant.
• Aug. 17: Manitou Springs Heritage Brew Festival in Memorial Park. Noon to 5 p.m. Tastings from 20-plus breweries plus live music and yard games. $10-$55 tickets.
• Aug. 18: Paella on the Patio at Tapateria. Three seatings between noon and 5 p.m. $39 includes a first wine, beer or sangria. August’s paella style: Tribute to the Pig.
Parting shot(s)
I, along with many people in the Springs culinary community was devastated to hear of the passing this week of our friend Nate Dirnberger. Nate was a talented young chef who at one point served as president for our local ACF Pikes Peak Chapter. I had the honor of cooking with him in my home many years ago, as we’d formed a professional friendship over the years as I tracked his career — from his early days at Nosh to his time overseeing Cheyenne Mountain Zoo for SSA Group and his more recent work at sites like the Royal Gorge Route Railroad. Nate was passionate, driven and dedicated to mentorship, as well as his family.
This beautiful tribute by Nate’s good friend, Chef Brother Luck, includes a video of Nate wishing Luck well as he was about to compete on Top Chef in 2017. Brother says “Nate would want me to use this platform to remind everyone to tell your people that you love them. Tomorrow is not promised for any of us and we’ve got to find joy in the world… Learn to embrace the simplicity of life and appreciate the moment.”
"hot" in that it *is* attractive. But a mess to use.
Evergreen's website is a hot mess. I tried it in three different browsers and still have problems.
One page reads: "Amazing dishes from the best cuisines of the world
"This service includes:
"corporate finance
"regulatory issues and compliance"
And it goes on from there. Hey, at least clean up the old copy before you reuse the template.
And put in some links that work.