A big ante
A big ante
Cripple Creek levels up with Chamonix Casino Hotel and 980 Prime; The Broadmoor launches a barrel-age whiskey program; Goat Patch wins a World Beer Cup award + more food & drink news
“The existence of this hotel and restaurant is what changes Cripple Creek from a day trip to an overnight or weekend.”
That’s how my partner phrased it as we were digesting (literally) our experience at Chamonix Casino Hotel and 980 Prime. Impressive. All very impressive.
The 300-room, $300 million hotel, operated by Las Vegas-based Full House Resorts, had a rough start during its debut weekend at the turn of the year. They’ve been beaten up on in several online reviews since for various things (some quite petty from an outside glance). But our experience overall left us feeling like the opening kinks have largely been worked out and it’s time to shine.
The project took roughly four years to complete and is attached to Bronco Billy’s, which Full House acquired in 2016. The stated goal was to be the first luxury casino hotel in the area. Walking between the threshold of the two entities truly offers a night-and-day experience: from dim-lit, dated decor and drab carpet and the full old school Cripple Creek feel to complete opulence and a sparkling bright freshness that matches the higher-end Las Vegas vibe. Even though 600-plus slot machines and video poker games (and 16 table games) are spread out over Chamonix’s ground level, the place still feels boutique within most sightlines.
I should preface that we don’t find gambling entertaining, so we instead roamed around appreciating the art, architecture and chic design touches in cozier spaces, like at the hotel lobby bar and coffee café. And we savored an incredible meal at 980 Prime on its opening night, as the guest of Chamonix Chef Tournant Jeremy Gomez, who I first met back in 2021 when I favorably reviewed his Man Cave Meat Company food truck. Gomez still resides in the Springs, and invited me to join him for dinner as a fellow guest. We were being treated to a chef’s tasting by 980 Prime Chef Barry S. Dakake, the night before he and his team were to depart home to Vegas and hand the reigns over to the local crew. (He told me he’d be coming back monthly to touch base.)
Dakake’s resume highlight is working with Master Chef and Michelin-starred celebrity Charlie Palmer at Aureole in New York. He went on to open Aureole in Las Vegas and Charlie Palmer Steak, then contribute to a series of other successes that eventually led him to partner with Yassine Lyoubi on Barry’s 980 Prime at the Circa Casino & Resort. The dude has cooked for presidents and celebrities and has all the Vegas flair you’d expect. Which indeed begs the obvious question: what the fuck are you doing in Cripple Creek, Colorado, man?
Well, enter the Chamonix Casino Hotel and all the bold, if-you-build-it-they-will-come ambition behind the massive project that literally occupied what was formerly a segment of 2nd St. (Think: if the Mining Exchange had built across and blocked Pikes Peak Avenue, except in a small casino town with significantly less traffic.) Something that big — yeah, you bet your ass it needs a swanky steakhouse. Especially for the night’s winners suddenly flush with cash. 980 Prime is far from cheap. (Think: $119 Australian Wagyu New York Sirloin at the highest end.)
Okay, so that’s pretty much your scene set. I should disclose we were also comped a room for the night so we wouldn’t have to drive home after a lavish (booze-infused) meal. But know that I’ve spent enough time dining at the Broadmoor over the past two decades to have a good grasp on luxury lifestyles such that I believe I can fairly weigh-in on the Chamonix without cartoon googly eyes and a distorted sense of awe. A comped evening doesn’t purchase undue praise, is what I’m sayin’. The place stands on its own merits, especially when viewed in the context of being located in Cripple Creek, where the donkeys roam free in summer. That’s what we found ourselves constantly having to keep in mind, because once inside, it’s transportive.
So let’s get to some photo touring and meal highlights:
980 Prime is located just outside the valet station at the hotel’s main entrance on Bennett Ave. A step-down from the entryway into the bar area greets guests. An adjacent lounge to the bar overlooks the long dining room with its unbroken sightline. Private dining rooms are in the rear and on the side of the dining room, displaying premium bottles as part of the decor. Wine service is excellent. Servers wear white coats and black bow ties.
Cocktail offerings include tableside Smoked Old Fashioned or Manhattan pours with choice of whiskey; they run $20 to $26. The smoke aromas slowly dilute and fill the dining room with an inviting scent that pairs perfectly with steaks. Food pictured below on the top row are the chilled shellfish platter with Maine lobster, Alaskan King Crab, oysters, jumbo shrimp, calamari and octopus. And the beef tenderloin tartare with a quail egg served with toasted brioche. The seafood’s fresh and light with apple cider mignonette and a lively spicy cocktail sauce. The second row shows the incredibly rich lobster bisque and “The ‘Real’ Spazz Salad” which we’re told is an Italian word for garbage, essentially denoting a kitchen-sink approach to a loaded salad that includes salami strips, blue cheese and Gulf shrimp. It’s a surprising bite full of brine acidity (from artichoke hearts, olives and hearts of palm) and crunch (crispy shallots) and it seems too complex at first sight but damn does it work well. The surf and turf is Main lobster atop filet mignon with intense truffle aioli and tart red wine sauce and yes its gourmet AF like it sounds.
Filling in the bottom row above we have the whole Maine lobster mac ‘n cheese served in the creature itself (a $46 side). I didn’t catch what cheeses they employ but even chef Gomez, a comfort food fan, issues praise and commends the delicate richness. In the middle there is the menu-topping Wagyu sirloin and if you could see the marbling inside you’d whistle or say “damn” and understand how primo this beef is. (They buy from West Coast Prime out of Brea, California.) It’s a splendid bite, popped by finishing salts. The bottom cocktail is a Carajillo, which I don’t know why I haven’t been ordering or making at home because it’s a stellar (if simple) after-dinner sip of espresso (or cold brew) and Spanish-produced Licor 43 (with some variants out there, like the addition of vodka). The orange peel garnish lends meaningful impact.
Desserts are the New York Cheesecake — absolutely textbook and the best I’ve had in memory. Then the vegan peanut butter pie with notable toasted peanut bits and Oreo crust and a plant-based whipped cream you won’t know from the real stuff. And finally the ridiculously tall F’N Chocolate Cake which stands above the stem of our wine glasses and doesn’t impress us as much as the other two despite its heft.
While on the topic of sweets, I’ve saved a bit of a surprise for my outro here, which is that back over in the Chamonix Bistro our chef Gomez works alongside celebrity pastry chef, cookbook author and Top Chef judge Johnny Iuzzini, an alum of Jean Georges with a rather long list of accolades from the New York scene during the early 2000s. I must report that the same Google search also reveals a 2017 Eater article regarding sexual harassment accusations. But if we can put that aside for a moment, a hire of his caliber is one more indicator of how invested Full House Resorts is in Chamonix’s success. Simply put, it’s pretty fantastic pastry work, and highlights the daily, all-three-meals buffet options. Those are a fair $20-$45 when you consider not only the pastry prowess but all of Gomez and his team’s fine work on the savory items.
Among samplings of charcuterie and other small bites at breakfast (including jalapeño bacon, Lazo empanadas and Polidori sausage) we relished rabbit ravioli and prime rib with some damn good garlic-rosemary mashed potatoes. Gomez tells us he’s doing a lot of teaching and encouraging and that it’s difficult to attract a labor force who also has to commute in the majority of cases. He’s in touch with area culinary programs trying to recruit. That’s a reality to this whole project that makes it all the more impressive to pull off.
There are elements that show Chamonix remains a work in progress, such as the spa still under construction. And Chamonix Bistro itself is situated in a somewhat flat and underwhelming banquet room space with wall dividers that lend a corporate function feel. The food deserves a finer setting, which Gomez tells me is in the cards later. But for now, it’s been get open, get stabilized and crank out all meals all the time and set a tone. “I’m buying higher-end products,” he tells me. “I’m calling this ‘rustic elegance.’ It’s still comfort-food based. I don’t want to go too fancy.”
Don’t tell that to Barry and the 980 Prime people. They’re already all-in at the high end. They’re gambling on Cripple Creek, or more accurately its daily visitors, to meet them where they’ve set the stakes (and steaks - ahem): damn high for a historic little mountain gambling town that’s never had a true luxury offering in the modern era. So for folks like me, who could care less about casino gaming but will drive for a special meal, there’s finally a draw to Cripple Creek, and a stylish place to sleep.
One life to liver
I know you’ve been waiting all week to find out what my final liver pun is for the month. We had Liver it up!, A well livered life, I don’t want to liver without you — and now, One life to liver. You’re welcome. A final thanks to chef Brent Beavers and The Carter Payne for participating with us this month. Just because the month is concluding and we’ll be featuring a new recipe with another guest chef next month doesn’t mean you can’t shop for our prior-featured recipe items anytime at Ranch Foods Direct. Visit Side Dish’s recipe page for full listings of all our recipes to date. Get caught up. Get really full eating (it happens). And always remember to mention Side Dish for 5% off your shopping basket and thank the fine folks at Ranch Foods Direct for supporting Schniper.
Barrels at the Broadmoor
The Broadmoor recently launched what VP of Food & Beverage David Patterson informally called their “barrel-aged program” on campus. At least that’s the wording he used when we spoke a few months ago while I was working on a story about Distillery 291 and their expanding relationship with the premier hotel. (That’s publishing soon in the Broadmoor Magazine.)
Patterson mentioned procurement of single barrels from the likes of Buffalo Trace, Blanton’s and Elijah Craig, which will be featured on Broadmoor menus. He says when he entered his position in the spring of 2023 the property was already buying a few barrels, but he sought to expand that (leveraging their considerable buying power) and create something more signature. Fitting for a Kentucky native. “We spend a tremendous amount of time focused on procurement,” he’d told me, specifically addressing their ongoing Meet the Maker series to highlight and celebrate purveyors.
As the barrel program pertains to Distillery 291, I attended a sampling inside 291’s distillery with members of the Broadmoor staff. They were there to sip and select their favorite barrels for purchase, acting as ambassadors and tastemakers. I learned from 291’s staff that they’d been offering this barrel selection service since working with the Stanley Hotel in Estes Park in 2015, and many restaurants and liquor stores since, plus private buyers for things like corporate events and wedding-party gifts.
Anyway, I tasted alongside them as we went through nine barrel pullings during three rounds (to rest our palates) and took notes on minutia. From apple, vanilla, brown sugar, caramel and eucalyptus aromas (among many others) to more spicy and hot (alcohol-biting) sips. I pulled Broadmoor Director of Restaurants and Beverage Jake Zubrod aside at one point for his take on it all and he expressed that it was exciting to have the staff be responsible for the barrel selections (instead of just the high-ups). He said it was definitely creating more buy-in via the hands-on, personal process. He hoped that staff enthusiasm would later translate to the general public.
So if you are on property at any point this summer, look for these more special whiskey offerings. You might see co-branded bottles for sale (with custom label wraps) and notice featured cocktails. For 291’s part, they’re on fine display in the Smoked Old Fashioned at La Taverne, as just one offering. Their whiskeys will also be sold in small, 100ml whiskey bottles that 291 founder/owner calls “cowboys.”
Bites and bits
• The Skirted Heifer will reopen on April 26, having closed in mid February after a car drove through the building. “We personally want to thank everyone that helped us get through this incident and we are coming back better than ever!” they wrote on their Facebook page this week.
• Through April 28, Hillside Gardens’ newly opened Garden Center will plant a tree for every specialty cocktail sold or beer from Bristol and Goat Patch breweries.
• Speaking of Side Dish Dozen member Goat Patch Brewing Co., they and co-owner/head brewer Darren Baze were just given a bronze award at the 2024 World Beer Cup for their Baaah-ley Wine in the Barley Wine-Style Ale category. They’re the only Colorado Springs brewery to place this year.
• Chef’s Kitchen, a commissary kitchen off Eighth Street, has just launched a new offering of cooking classes. Find info on the first two instructions and sign up here. The spot is owned by former video production agency head John Bourbonais. He’s partnering with former sports industry businessman Chuck Menke for the class programming. Menke tells Side Dish he believes there’s a demand for more kids and adult classes in town and they’d like to be helpful in “building out the culinary ecosystem.”
• Inefable at Avenue 19 will host a Cinco de Mayo “taco extravaganza” with a Tepex food truck-inspired menu and grand open its patio deck as part of the party.
• Chiba Bar and Eleven18 are collaborating on “a two week culinary seafood showcase featuring two different preparations of our highlighted ingredients: black cod and custom flavor-infused tortillas.” At each spot, April 30 through May 11, you’ll find a unique food preparation and paired cocktail.
• The Banning Lewis Ranch Brew Fest, set for July 13, is seeking participating breweries and cider and spirit makers. (And they are paying vendors for their products.) More info here soon. Contact madwomanmarketing@comcast.net meanwhile for full details.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Rasta Pasta: Did you know Rasta Pasta now offers online ordering for pick up and delivery? Truth! Visit realrastapasta.com to view our full menu and place your order.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Bleating Heart Night, April 30, 5-9 p.m.; $1 from each pint sold benefits The Manitou Music Foundation. Trivia, May 1, 6:30-8:30 p.m.; Singo Music Bingo: 80s Pop Vol. 1, May 2, 6-8 p.m.; Pizzarte will serve.
• Ascent Beverage: Appetizers, Samples & Smokes - Meet the Founder/Distiller of Jackson Hole Still Works. April 29, 6:30-9:30 p.m. at Basil & Barley Pizzeria Napoletana. Light apps and cigars on the patio; dinner optional, cocktails encouraged.
• Odyssey Gastropub: New spring menu is out. Thirsty Thursday Specials: rotating specials we pick weekly with $4 beers, $5 shots and a $6 cocktail. Ironton Distillery Cocktail Dinner, May 6. 5:30 p.m.; $75 tickets.
• Allusion Speakeasy: Drink out of something different tonight. (…Very different.)
• The Carter Payne: In a recent 10-day period, The Carter Payne has hosted a rehearsal dinner; a pre-summer staff kickoff/hype party; a wedding ceremony and reception; a nonprofit fundraiser; a private whiskey class; a 60th birthday chef's tasting menu dinner; a corporate farewell party; a professional association luncheon; a military retirement; and a private comedy show. (Phew!) All that to say, if you’re interested in hosting your own private event on site, hit them up here.
• Edelweiss: Reserve now for Mothers Day. Edelweiss fills up quickly; book soon here to get best times. View the Mother’s Day special menu here.
• Blue Star Group: April 28 is National Blueberry Pie Day; hit Gold Star Bakery from noon-7 p.m. Principal's Office has a new spring cocktail menu, perfect for patio sipping. Lazo's Empanada sells 10 delicious flavors to have as a snack or a meal at Ivywild School. Or grab a 10-pack of frozen take-and-bake empanadas for a quick weeknight meal at home. They’re also great for catering your events.
• Kangaroo Coffee: Check out our auction items for the May 11 Humane Society of Pike Peak Region Fur Ball – especially the KC Cat Café. Win a morning of Kangaroo Coffee and Organic Bliss treats for 10 with a whole bunch of kitties to cuddle!
• Four by Brother Luck: Fajitas & Fresh Tortillas cooking class at The Studio, May 4, 6 p.m.; $75. Shrimp Cocktail & Filet Mignon cooking class, May 11, 6 p.m. at the Studio; $75.
• The French Kitchen: 20% off Beef Bourguignon thru May 1. Catch the Mega Triple Chocolate Macaron, one day only, May 2, to celebrate 11,000 likes on Facebook. Café happy hours 3-5 p.m., Tuesday-Friday, get 10% off on everything fresh.
• District Elleven: Happy hours 4-6 p.m., Tuesday-Friday with $6 tapas, $6 wine, $5 wells, $4 beers. Extended hours coming to bird tree cafe in May: open till 9 p.m. All day, every day specials at T-Byrd’s + $3.50 Tivoli Outlaws and $5 Jameson anytime.
• Bristol Brewing Company: Beers & Gear Outdoor Expo is coming up on May 18, 2-5 p.m. Featuring vendors from local outdoor gear shops and nonprofits, live music, giveaways, food and beer specials, limited edition swag and $1 from each pint sold benefits the participating outdoor nonprofits.
• Red Gravy: Enjoy Red Gravy at home with online ordering and delivery through Door Dash or Uber Eats. Try The Family Meal Deal.
Upcoming events
• April 28: Pink Oyster Mushroom Cultivation Workshop at Flying Pig Farm. 10:30 a.m. to noon. $45-$65.
• April 28: The Rooftop Invitational bartender competition at Lumen8 Rooftop Social. 8 p.m.; free to attend.
• April 29: Sip & Bites - A Tequila Tasting Experience at Tequila Village in Monument. 4-5 p.m., nine tastings $130.
• April 29: Craft Cocktail class with Montana at Neat Whiskey House. 6-8 p.m.; $65.
• April 30: Community Wine Dinner at Pizzeria Rustica. 6 p.m. Five courses, $79; benefits All Breed Rescue and Training. 719-475-9700 to reserve.
• May 1: Mas de Daumas Wine Dinner at Homa at Kinship Landing. 6:30 p.m. Four courses by chef Jacob Cheathum, $70.
• May 4: 2nd annual Kentaco Derby Event at The Well. 4-9:30 p.m. Vendor taco specials, Derby cocktails, live music, Josh & John’s ice cream truck, giveaways.
• May 4: April Showers Bring May Flowers wine tasting at Wayfinder Coffee. 6-9 p.m. $60; five wines and a welcome cocktail with food pairings.
• May 9: The Broadmoor's Meet the Maker wine dinner with Bindi Sergardi at Ristorante Del Lago. $250. Menu here; tickets here.
• May 11: SoCo Collab Frost Fest at Bear Creek Regional Park. 1-5 p.m., $30.
• May 15: Taste of Tri-Lakes Cares Chopped-style fundraiser. Side Dish is co-judging the event. Organizers still seeking restaurant participants.
Parting shot(s)
• I attended my first Stellina Supper Club this past week, having failed to do so prior because they always fell on the same nights that we were running our Bar Battle series at Tipperary Cocktail Parlor. If you’re still unfamiliar with Stellina, it belongs to the Blue Star Group (a Side Dish Dozen member) and is nestled in the Mid Shooks Run neighborhood. Chef Will Merwin designed Stellina’s menu and created the Supper Club menu we enjoyed. Read the full menu by clicking into the top left photo. My favorite plate of the evening was the roasted figs, ricotta and pistachio board with bread and honey, though as you can see, everything was bright, colorful and fresh.
• I also caught the soft opening at Illegal Pete’s and was able to chat with owner Pete Turner in person, having only interviewed him by phone for last week’s Q&A feature.
This is making me eager to move back to COS!