Landmark of the Springs
Landmark of the Springs
Edelweiss approaches six decades; Quiet on Set's local connection; tap&table interviews Phantom Canyon's new head brewer + more food & drink news
Age isn’t everything, but in the restaurant world it’s often a testament to quality. Simply put, places that suck don’t endure, they die. And if you’ve been in the game for 57 years — well, you’re pretty much legend and are doing something right. Many things actually.
Edelweiss is this place — anchored in the Ivywild community and doing higher-volume daily service than almost everyone else around. Yet for all that action, it still offers an intimate dining experience, whether on the award-winning patio in summer, in the ornate main-level dining rooms or downstairs in the ratskeller. Come as you are.
“If you haven't ever had German food, let us give you the full experience,” says owner Dieter Schnakenberg. “If you want to come with your family, we’re an affordable place where the kids can experience a totally different environment, cuisine and everything else.” Like traditional accordion players Thursdays-Sundays from 5:30-8:30 p.m. “But if you just want to come in after a hike with your dog and sit on the patio and just have an appetizer and a beer — that's us too.”
Dieter’s mom Helga bought the business in the late 1980s after having managed there many years under the two prior owners. Dieter recalls those early years where his parents patiently negotiated the purchase of the building, immediately beginning major improvements after the sale. They would go on to buy two properties to the east to expand the parking lot (which fits 100 cars today); add on to the eatery’s front; expand the kitchen; and add a sizable bakery in the basement. “Every three to five years we’ve done some big remodel,” he says, adding that it’s been a lot of sweat equity and investment back in the business.
Throughout it all they’ve succeeded by keeping customer wellbeing top of mind. “We're here for the customers first and foremost,” he says. “If you don't put the customers first, you won’t have a business.”
Perhaps the best recent example of that was during the pandemic, when I was in touch with Dieter for reporting I was doing on restaurant pivots and moment-to-moment adaptations. I was also a customer on my personal time. Edelweiss was among the most locally active eateries to fill gaps and address needs. They converted a dining room window into a drive-up and sold hard-to-find grocery supplies plus items like steak boxes, while serving to-go off their regular menu. To return love to patrons, they gave a free pastry out with every order. They hosted yoga in the parking lot. And put up dividers, heaters and fire pits on the patio to achieve holiday service with house glühwein poured into every insulated cup Dieter could get his hands on. (People enjoyed it so much he still fields requests today for winter patio service.)
“I was on pace to install a temporary outdoor movie projector and extend our liquor license to the parking lot when things started opening up again,” he says. “I was like, let's just get people out of their house. What do they want? What do they need? What do we need to do?”
In the more normal times of today, Edelweiss’ customer care extends to smaller details such as staffing appropriately to handle the aforementioned high volume. We’re talking upwards of 400 guests capacity when the patio is open. On their busiest of nights, they’ll hit upwards of 600 covers; during high season like summer weekends they’ll feed 800 to 900 guests all day. For holiday meals, make that 1,200. (If you’ve been in the business you recognize these numbers for what they are: huge!)
“We want to be efficient, so you won’t wait in line. You won’t feel like we’re as busy as we are because we staff to take care of people and get them in and out in a reasonable amount of time,” he says. “Our goal is to offer high quality at reasonable prices, too. We can do that with the volume we do, and people know it.” (Helpful reminder: Making reservations is the best way to help them help you.)
If you’re someone reading this who has never been to Edelweiss, you might at this point be wondering what all those hordes are going for. Yeah, German food, but what kind?
“We have our roots in the Southern Bavarian regions,” says Dieter. “But over the last 20 years we've kind of morphed into incorporating plates from across Germany and almost anything European. Our menus are still 90% German. We strive to make it as authentic as we can, but we're not focusing on any specific region.”
You’ll find schnitzels, bratwurst, rouladen, lengthily marinated pork and beef dishes like sauerbraten, and fine steak and fish entrées. Weekly lunch specials incorporate popular German street food like döner kebab and currywurst. “I want to be fun and offer things that people maybe haven’t seen, that are very unique,” he says, adding all Edelweiss recipes are scratch homemade.
There’s a legacy to honor in that, dating back to chef Ana Perez, who held court for a quarter of a century. She worked her way up from dishwasher and trained under several German chefs “and was just a natural” says Dieter, noting folks’ typical surprise to learn she was Panamanian, not German. Even after she stepped down, she consulted to help later chefs adapt recipes.
Current executive chef Mark Montoya is among them. He’s worked at Edelweiss on and off for 15 years and also receives regular mentorship from Joachim Schaaf, the chef who trained Dieter years ago for his culinary apprenticeship up in Denver. Schaaf was classically European trained at a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Talking about savory items is only half the story of Edelweiss though, because it’s renowned for its award-winning pastry program. Original pastry chef (and Dieter’s father-in-law) Alfred “Freddie” Hiltbrunner set a high standard over the decades. When he was ready to retire a few years ago, a chance check-in by current pastry chef Pierre Osborne ushered in the lavish pastry cases guests are greeted with today in Edelweiss’ entryway. Osborne, as a teenager, had worked under Hiltbrunner, who inspired him to take interest in pastry. He went on to learn at other Springs bakeries with Hiltbrunner over the years (including Michelle’s, Kirchners and Old Heidelberg) as well as at prominent spots that include Vail’s Alpenrose restaurant.
Commensurate to Edelweiss’ customer volume, Osborne will go through 50 to 80 whole tortes weekly, mostly sold by-the-slice. At any given time, between strudels and the dozen different tortes plus signature and seasonal small pastries, there’s around 30 different desserts available. (Tip: if you can’t save room for dessert, pick four pastries for $20 on the way out the door). “We really pride ourselves on making our desserts from scratch,” says Dieter. “Pierre’s not bringing any mixes in.”
Lastly as a pride point, Edelweiss offers the largest imported German beer selection locally (to the best of my knowledge): more than 30 beers across all styles, from a wheat beer to a darker Dunkel, Doppelbock and summer refreshers like Radlers. Eight beers are on draft and many of the bottles come in the 16.9-ounce size (versus typical American 12-ounce) — which makes for some pretty screamin’ happy hour deals in the ratskeller Tuesdays-Saturdays, 4:30-6:30 p.m. Like $4 for a big beer, as the beer glasses they serve in down there are 20 ounces. (Also catch $4 well-level mixed drinks and house wines, plus appetizer specials coming soon.)
For folks who prefer spirits, check out some other unique products like European brandies. Dieter calls the Slivovitz plum brandy “very potent” and recommends the Rüdesheimer Kaffee off the menu. It’s made with flambéed Asbach Uralt German Brandy topped in coffee and whipped cream with garnishing chocolate syrup. “It’s a special drink that you can't find anywhere else,” he says.
All of which reinforces the full-experience Edelweiss aims to offer. It’s not just the authentic German/European food, but the accompanying drinks and beautiful desserts and the Bavarian-inspired ambience. Everything under one really big roof.
Remember the bear
Ten years ago Edelweiss went viral because of security cam footage they shared of a bear making off with one of their dumpsters. The bear, walking on two legs, pulled it backwards as if it were a shopping cart. Nearly 800,000 YouTube views later …
Join us for our 3rd Thursday Sip with Schnip at Edelweiss — April 18, 6-9 p.m.
Side Dish is proud to have Edelweiss as a Side Dish Dozen member. Join us April 18 from 6-9 p.m. in the Edelweiss Rathskeller for German beers, wine, spirits and appetizers. $10 tickets include your first beer or signature cocktail plus half-off select apps. $5 per ticket benefits the Ivywild Improvement Society. (Tickets are optional.)
Not quiet anymore
Max’s crime docuseries Quiet on Set: The Dark Side of Kids TV is the show of the moment. It was the most-watched streaming show in its debut week.
Those of you locally who’ve watched it may have noticed the Colorado Springs connection in episode five, “Breaking the Silence.” Nickelodeon child star Shane Lyons speaks out about his experiences on All That around show subject and convicted child molester Brian Peck. This Entertainment Weekly article sums up much of Lyons’ story. The show has ignited a worldwide rallying call for improving working conditions for the most vulnerable in the entertainment industry. Slate calls it Nickelodeon’s #MeToo Story.
Transparency disclosure: Lyons is a good friend of mine, featured in my State of Plate podcast in late 2022. We met two decades ago while working together at Sencha, Brent Beavers’ original restaurant. (Beavers is now chef at The Carter Payne.)
Where Quiet on Set’s story about Lyons ends, his personal journey as a chef begins. He would go on to attend Hyde Park’s respected Culinary Institute of America, return to his hometown to head Nosh for the Blue Star Group, then revisit NYC to work at Momofuku Noodle Bar and co-launch Distilled New York, favorably reviewed by the Times.
While he has still taken on some TV and film gigs throughout the years since, his focus has remained in the kitchen. Currently he’s co-building a high-end sandwich brand in L.A. named Vesti. He’s said he feels fortunate to have followed in his parents’ footsteps and have a culinary career as an anchor to keep him from getting lost in Hollywood.
We caught up as I was in the process of writing this week’s newsletter, and he shared a meaningful, full-circle aspect to his story that picks up right after his All That years.
“Sencha, for whatever dysfunction it had, was really a soft landing for me. It was the perfect place at age 16. I was quickly taken into the Colorado Springs culinary scene and it felt like a net positive after an unorthodox young life in Hollywood,” he says. “Sencha had a strong leader who made crazy delicious food and it had a unified team and heartfelt, community-driven spirit. I wasn’t exactly in need of lifesaving, but that restaurant was just the medicine I needed at that stage of my life.”
He points out the irony that he left the salacious world of Hollywood to enter kitchens, which have also widely known to be problematic for sexual harassment over the years. “I’m not giving the culinary industry a full pass, but the restaurant world has generally been a healthy place for me.” He honestly questions where he’d be today if it weren’t for these formative years we shared with so many good people in our tight-knit crew.
“What was special about Sencha was the theatrics of it, the intentionality. There wasn’t a big difference between going to work on a Hollywood set and working at Sencha,” he says. “There was a lot of ‘be prepared’ in both places. Know your work, come ready, it’s gonna be chaotic. It was the right balance of that chaos with learning, nurturing, and being around theatric people I could play with.” (Sencha hosted regular Literary Dinners, paired meals with book-inspired, staff-written and -acted shows.) “Sencha was a special place, like no other kitchen in the nation - a pirate ship of musicians, actors, and true hospitality pros. I would have had a completely different experience entering the field if I hadn’t started working for Brent.”
The full-circle aspect to that is Beavers got his own start in the industry as a teenager, working for Lyons’ father at the time at his restaurant The Painted Lady. “My dad mentored Brent, who went on to mentor me — it’s a clear line. And Brent talked about how back then, they helped provide him order as well during a chaotic time in his life.”
A well livered life — with Ranch Foods Direct
Yep, the liver puns keep coming because that’s me. (Last week, it was “Liver it up!” — inspired by the City’s failed branding campaign around a decade ago.) But while I’m being playful with the words, I can assure you we are totally serious with chef Brent Beavers’ recipe for beef liver and mushroom spring sliders with pickled onions and carrots. Get the recipe here. Thanks to The Carter Payne for joining Side Dish’s monthly collaboration with Ranch Foods Direct.
As I said last week, we’re aware some eaters are challenged by organ meats. But I like to give nudges to try new things, so we hope you’ll give this recipe a shot. I also noted how liver is one of the most nutritionally dense foods around, so there’s an immediate payoff for your bravery, should you accept our invitation. Remember to mention Side Dish for 5% off your shopping basket, so that Ranch Foods Direct gets to know more of you supportive subscribers.
Pink Boots, Beets and Badassery at Phantom Canyon
“You have to have a really big set of balls… you’re gonna have people that say you don’t know what you’re doing or you can’t do it or you’re not strong enough or you’re not smart enough or you’re not a guy…”
That’s Phantom Canyon Brewing’s new head brewer Kat Hess, who’s filled the shoes of outgoing head brewer Charles McManus, who took a job at Denver’s Burns Family Artisan Ales. Phantom, the Springs’ oldest continuously operating brewery, just celebrated its 30th anniversary in November, just ahead of Bristol Brewing.
Hess joins Ryan Hannigan and me on our latest tap&table episode to share her story, which begins locally with washing kegs at Pikes Peak Brewing before working her way into brewing, studying at the Siebel Institute in Chicago, and traveling internationally to get (pink) boots on the ground at respected breweries for further training. Hess is actually Phantom’s second female head brewer in its history, and the industry as a whole has come a long way (though not far enough) since the former roughly a decade ago, in terms of welcoming women into the workforce.
Hear what she has to say; check out her first beers to hit the taps (including a beet saison); and consider stopping into Phantom soon to show some support.
*Please subscribe to our tap&table YouTube channel to help us build our audience. And/or follow us on your favorite podcast platform, to include Apple, Google, Amazon, Spotify.
Bites and bits
• The Warehouse Restaurant & Gallery announced this week that they’re going to be featured on America’s Best Restaurants. They haven’t yet posted a release date for their episode, but are doing a gift card giveaway right now.
• Edelweiss’s near 60 years in business are impressive. But BJ’s Velvet Freez is celebrating 70 years this month. (Other local legacy businesses include Roman Villa, Luigi’s and Señor Manuel. I wrote about them all a couple years ago, but alas the Indy’s archive remains inaccessible, so: no link for you!)
• A couple weeks ago, I featured the arrival of Mausam Indian Restaurant on the Westside (with its Michelin-awarded chef). Well, to balance that out, the Eastside is about to receive another Indian spot: Curry Culture. No opening dates have been announced and I haven’t yet made contact, but know that it’s on my radar.
• In Focal Pint this week, Ryan Hannigan says “Collaboration Fest 2024 reinforced for us that this is one of the top fests in the state. A festival that not only provides support to the valuable efforts of the Colorado Brewer’s Guild, but also because it fully embraces the collaborative spirit of the state’s brewing industry we love so much.” Catch a colorful rundown from March 30’s event in his newsletter. Plus a reminder to get your Frost Fest tickets for May 11 before they sell out.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Kangaroo Coffee: Our baristas are feeling rather hoppy that spring is here, with special drinks of the week that include lavender lemonade, apple-honey Red Bull and “Cake by the Ocean Roofresher” (think: peach mango hanging with lemonade and watermelon syrup). We're also preparing for our arrival at Weidner Field for the April 20 Switchbacks game. Enjoy our KC beverages while you Roo for the home team!
• Bristol Brewing Company: Limited edition specialty beers on tap right now at the pub: Yellow Kite Pilsner, Mexican Lager collab with Metric Brewing, Nitro Winter Warlock Oatmeal Stout. Barrel Room pop-up April 13, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; $5 pints, $12 garlic buffalo wings from Spark BBQ plus yard games.
• Edelweiss: Sip with Schnip April 18, 6-9 p.m. in the Rathskeller. Optional $10 tickets include first beer or signature cocktail, plus half-off of select apps. $5 per ticket benefits the Ivywild Improvement Society.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Second Saturday Firkin release at 2 p.m. is Mango Twisty Tea Seltzer; $5 pints. Bleating Heart Night benefits Westside Cares, April 16, 5-9 p.m.
• The Carter Payne: Tickets on sale for the May 5 Better Together Dinner in support of ICONS. On draft right now: Thai Tea Table Sour, X-14 Hoppy German Wheat, Hawthorne-Lime Leaf Kolsch.
• The Studio by Brother Luck: Mixology Masterclass: Spring Cocktails. April 17, 6:30 p.m.; $45. Top Chef dinner with Monique Feybesse at Four by Brother Luck, April 18, 6 p.m.; five wine-paired courses, $150.
• Blue Star Group: April 17 Community Constellations night at Stellina Pizza Cafe benefits the Children's Literacy Center, who provides free one-to-one tutoring to underperforming students in Colorado. Next Stellina Supper Club is April 22; $75 tickets here.
• Red Gravy: Wine Wednesday tastings in Blue at Red Gravy + half-priced bottles.
• Odyssey Gastropub: Catch Waffle Wednesdays: Chicken & Waffles available all day.
• The French Kitchen: Catch the 1883 Syrup sale (for coffee, sparkling water, cocktails). 70 flavors available, up to 30% off through April 14. 20% off 32-ounce Bonne Femme Soup through April 17. Brownies, Blondies and Bars class, 1 p.m. on April 16 with Chef Nate. Tiramisu class, 9 a.m. April 17 with Chef Blandine.
• Ascent Beverage: Go for the Corpse Reviver No 2 at Shame and Regret featuring Jackson Hole Still Works’ Great Grey Gin.
• District Elleven: Tapas Tuesday is still in effect with $6 Tapas, $6 Wine, $5 Wells and $4 Beers all day. bird tree cafe: $3.50 Tivoli Outlaw beers, $5 Infused Wheatley Shots. T-Byrd’s: 123 Organic Tequila Tasting, April 17, 6 p.m., featuring Uno, Dos and Tres, $25 tickets.
• Rasta Pasta: Sometimes a dish is such a staple it’s easy to forget how special it is. The Chicken Montego Bay is Rasta Pasta’s best seller for good reason. It’s not your mama’s Chicken Alfredo! House-made jerk chicken, freshly sautéed veggies, pineapple, penne pasta and Alfredo sauce folded with white wine and pineapple juice.
• Allusion Speakeasy: The Powers location is now open as Central Perk coffee shop from Friends, serving drinks like the Sticky Shoes, Salt Water Taffy Man and Jingle Bitch. Downtown’s location is Monica’s Kitchen, where you’ll find the Joey Special.
Upcoming events
• April 15: Beer Can Candle-Making Class at Neat Whiskey House. 6-7:30 p.m.; $45.
• April 16-April 27: Eleven18 and Toasted Bunz collaboration with chefs Beto Reyes and Andres Velez. “It’s interpretations of my dishes at their places and a taco version of a dish from their spot here at Eleven18,” says Reyes. Next up: Chiba Bar/Kalen Jannifer April 30-May 11 and Four by Brother Luck/Ashley Brown May 14-25.
• April 18: Project Angel Heart hosts its Dining Out For Life fundraiser. 25% of your check at hundreds of participating restaurants will go to help provide “delicious, medically tailored meals for Coloradans living with severe illnesses.”
• April 19: Luchals-Fountain hosts its grand opening. New menu, full bar.
• April 20: 20th annual Pikes Peak Herb Fest at Westside Community Center. 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
• April 20: Earth Day Pop Up at Switchback Coffee.
• April 25: MIRASOL film premiere at Pueblo’s Sangre de Cristo Arts & Conference Center. 5:30-9 p.m.; includes pre- and post-show entertainment. Produced by the Palmer Land Conservancy. (Colorado Springs premiere is May 21.)
• April 25: Patrick Robinson’s 13th annual Chef Showcase at the Antlers Hotel. 5:30-8 p.m.; $150 benefits Rocky Mountain Health Care Services. Featuring samplings from nearly 20 fine area eateries.
• April 27: 4th annual Paws for Celebration Gala with Safe Place for Pets at The Mining Exchange. A luau celebration to “support our mission of helping people who are terminally ill by finding homes for their beloved pets.” 6-9 p.m. $75-$150.
• April 27: Spring Wine Extravaganza at Winery at Holy Cross Abbey. 1-4 p.m.; $35-$45. “Take advantage of the once-a-year discounted pricing on our newest and most prized wines.”
• April 28: The Rooftop Invitational at Lumen8 Rooftop Social. Eight bartenders representing eight fine town bars compete in a single elimination tournament. Free to attend, space is limited. Benefitting the Boys & Girls Club of the Pikes Peak Region.
Parting shot(s)
Hillside Gardens is reopening its Garden Center on April 12 for daily service (9 a.m. to 2 p.m., through June). While you shop for plants from their new greenhouse plus pots, fertilizer, soils, seeds, garden art, wine bottles and more, you can enjoy drinks from their new garden bar. That includes Hold Fast Coffee espresso drinks plus mimosas and Bloody Marys. I was part of a judging panel last week to select the best Bloody Mary from three guest bartenders. Roxi Rothrock’s won out, as voted unanimously by myself, John Wolfe and Josh Franklin from ICONS, Level 3 WSET Spirits expert Lindsey Moser and First Lady of COS Abbey Mobolade. If you’re a Bloody fan, you should venture for this one (not so secret ingredient: The Real Dill). Also mark you calendar for the first Summer Concert Series night on May 15.
Another jam-packed newsletter full of tasty news! It's @anubis1969 55th birthday on the 25th, so thanks to this newsletter, we're going to The Warehouse Restaurant. Salud!