Miss(ing) Saigon 🍽
People are grumbling about changes to their favorite downtown Vietnamese spot under new ownership. I went to see if those grievances are sound. And I asked the proprietors to explain the updates.
We understand that change is hard, but we are very grateful so far to those who have shown support and encouragement. — Tim Hines, Saigon Cafe co-owner
The simple fact of the matter is lots of people are upset about how Saigon Cafe has changed in recent months since Monse and Tim Hines (of Monse’s Taste of El Salvador and Sivar) purchased the spot.
The former owners, the Truong family, had built a very steady, loyal clientele over many years. They especially courted a regular business-lunch following downtown. And they won the Indy Best Of annually in the Vietnamese category for as long as anyone can remember.
From an outside perspective, it appeared to be a turnkey business that would do best not to be messed with. Don’t fix what’s not broken and all that. As a chef pal said to me: “Shut the f_ck up and do the recipe.” Don’t put a personal spin or twist on it, just hit the core, traditional thing the way customers like it.
I first noticed regular negative comments about Saigon Cafe online across Facebook foodie groups. (People were particularly miffed about the longtime server Sunny no longer being employed there.) Then some acquaintances messaged me with thoughts, asking if I’d yet been. A trusted friend pulled me aside in passing with a rather dismal review, saying their favorite past dishes have been ruined, and that they wouldn’t go back anymore. Weeks later another friend brought Saigon up because one of her clients just swore it off after they changed his go-to item.
Basically, around every corner for a while there was another complaint. But I intentionally waited longer before making a visit to give them a courtesy amount of time to get on their feet and work out systems. (A basic newsroom approach to food criticism as we practiced back at the Indy by a matter of best practices.) Then, I made two visits roughly a week apart.
I’m going to first tell you about visit one, then pause to relay my Q&A with co-owner Tim Hines. And I’ll finish with details from visit two, which proved to be different.
Visit one:
Food aside, the space looks sharp design wise. There’s nice woven and thatched pendant lights, red lanterns popping against warm yellow walls, and framed Vietnamese landscape graphic posters. Tables and booths are clean and bright and the bar glows with a neon, soft green sign that accents a limited wine and soju selection currently. (I’m told a full liquor license is under way.) The soundtrack of disco and Latin trap doesn’t quite match the Asian vibe, but whatever.
We order Pad Thai (not a traditional Vietnamese dish, I’m aware), Vietnamese Curry and bun bowl with grilled chicken. The first lands nothing like the Thai standard, lacking the sour tamarind/fish sauce punch and much peanut influence. It’s loaded with veggies to its credit (broccoli, snow pea, mushrooms, baby corn green bell pepper, carrot, red onion), though the noodles are on the dry side and it smacks a bit bland overall. I think if it were listed as simply a vegetable stir fry and didn’t get our hopes up about true Pad Thai we’d have been a little more satisfied.
The yellow coconut curry is a classic Vietnamese plate (usually with chicken) that we opt to get with short ribs for the protein. It’s well stocked here with al dente mirepoix ingredients (carrot, white onion, celery) that overwhelm some bites and leave me wishing the celery was out in place bell peppers or anything else. The curry hits kind of one-note, lacking an herbal-floral depth. The chewy short ribs rate decent with a pop of umami that lends counterpoint to the curry flavor, but underneath lies rice that’s gone a bit mushy and clumpy.
One of my dining mates is most sad about the bun bowl though, as it was her past go-to item. It’s different. The Nước chấm lacks its typical sour-sweet brightness, tasting thin. We don’t dig the egg roll on this dish (or the curry); oily and unremarkable. Shredded lettuce quickly wilts and sogs, as do bean sprouts that hold no crispness. We discern no mint if any’s there. And while the chicken does host some thin grill marks, it lacks the more developed char I like to see, that which evokes the open fires of street-side Hanoi. The dish feels as if it’s been manipulated in an attempt to be healthier — call it the Modern Market approach, if we’re right.
We don’t love being charged $10.50 for one pot of jasmine tea, tallied at $3.50 per drinker — which we learn after paying and later looking at an online itemized receipt. At the table, guests are only presented with a handheld POS and a total bill. We’re happier for the price ($10) with a raspberry-tamarind mojito that makes the most of the soju in place of typical rum; it’s effervescent and not overly sweet.
We try both desserts: a taro cheesecake and pandan-coconut cake. Both presentations are unique and interesting. I can’t say I’ve had cheesecake inside a glass before (and I’m not talking about that annoying TikTok trend of people serving cake by scooping wineglasses into it), and the pandan-coconut cake gets plated in little round cutouts with ample toasted coconut over a smeared “buttercream” (as described to us) and fresh mint garnish on a long plate. I generally like both desserts but feel they aren’t yet perfected and could use minor tweaks. I would up the taro element of the cheesecake and dial down the graham cracker crust finish, though I applaud the lime zest for aromatic and flavor offset. The pandan finishes with a strong yellow cake taste, almost like cake batter, and the “buttercream” holds an odd texture and flavor, kind of pasty and ending with a near synthetic edge (although I know that’s not Monse’s MO). Regardless, I think both could be bully with improvements.
Before we leave, I overhear the table next to us, a young couple, both say that they’re loving their bowls of pho. And the following day, another friend coincidentally texts me to say he had a great pho there and would rate it a close second to one of his favorite spots in Denver. (Big words there.) I decide that’s what I’ll come back for on my second visit. But first, I send out questions to Tim Hines for comment.
In the owners’ words:
Side Dish: Why did y’all opt to buy Saigon Cafe, and what's your intention with it?
Hines: We had been exploring a downtown location as a business growth opportunity for quite some time. We have a good relationship with the previous owners of Saigon Cafe (Paul Truong) and learned late spring '23 that they were planning to retire and abruptly close. Over a handful of conversations, we decided the location was perfect for us, and decided to go under contract to buy… Somewhere in the discussions, I think both families appreciated the idea of keeping Saigon Cafe in the community, especially as a local, family-owned business.
Our intent was to embrace the change with new energy, a new look and give new life into a long-standing restaurant. We understand that change is hard, but we are very grateful so far to those who have shown support and encouragement.
Colorado Springs is growing. It already experiences a healthy number of travelers, tourists, and will continue to change with the times. We saw an opportunity to "pass the baton" from one family to another and felt it was positive to re-introduce a local restaurant downtown instead of seeing more restaurant chains. Plus, it was compatible with our interest to introduce another restaurant embracing culture, diversity and community through food.
We call Colorado Springs home and appreciate the people in this city for their strong support of small businesses. We've dedicated a lot of our focus to embracing culture through food and see Saigon Cafe’s transition as an exciting beginning to a new chapter.
Side Dish: I notice the word "modern" on the branding. What does that mean to y’all as it pertains to changes you've made with the menu/restaurant as a whole?
Hines: Great question! This is one of the highlights of our plan and an exciting part of the change. While we definitely want to stay attractive to the existing customer base, we also strive to connect to the next generation. We want to redefine what local Vietnamese cuisine looks like — with an emphasis on a modern experience, an updated and welcoming environment and elevated food presentation.
We aimed at making a menu that was attractive but also simplified and clear. A critical part of that effort was to elevate plating to highlight quality in each dish with fresh ingredients. Our menu aims to maintain the integrity of traditional Vietnamese and other Asian dishes influencing Vietnamese cuisine, but to also broaden their appeal to a mix of audiences. For example, we've enhanced the menu offerings to include several vegan, vegetarian and gluten free options.
We've also incorporated a few Vietnamese dishes, not previously offered on the menu, such as the very popular bánh mi Sandwich, steamed soup dumplings, crispy tofu bites, crispy chicken bites with ginger-soy dipping sauce, and Vietnamese tomato stew (Dau Sot Ca Chua).
Some of the "modern" moniker incorporates the observance of modern eating preferences: such as offering allergy-friendly options and using fresh, high-quality ingredients. We are also tapping into the use of digital platforms such as a digital payment POS at the table, online ordering and integration of third party delivery options such as DoorDash and Uber Eats.
In addition to healthier options, we're proud to increase our product inventory through local sourcing, like our beef and marrow bones used in the beef pho and the beef short ribs, which are sourced locally through Ranch Foods Direct. [A sponsor of Side Dish.] We're also working with an independent, local micro-green business which elevates flavors and freshness on plates.
Our aim at "modern" branding is achieved in part by blending casual with finer dining. We want the experience to bring together the upscale details of food presentation and decor while still providing quick service and the quality of home-made food.
Other changes include:
• Updated decor to create a modern environment. These efforts are probably the most notable, with the entry now providing a centralized view of the entire space — which incorporates elements of colors, light, plants and modern artwork.
• We've incorporated a blend of sustainability by using natural and functional materials in the decor (such as the bamboo furniture, bamboo/ natural light fixtures).
• We express modern aesthetic at the bar to create an updated expression with unique lighting and a sleek look. It’s a welcoming and comfortable space.
• Art and wall decor embraces the elements (wood, earth, metal, water and fire). We highlight this in our vision aimed at taking customers on a journey with a menu complementary to Vietnamese fundamentals: freshness of food, harmony of textures, modern expression and flavorful uses of herbs and vegetables.
Side Dish: Did y’all study with the former owners/cooks and receive their recipes? Tell us about the transition.
Hines: The transition included weeks/months of dedicated kitchen sessions and sharing knowledge so we could observe, practice, train and learn recipes. We also dedicated a good amount of time to learn where to source specific products as well as benefit from specific cooking techniques. I can't say enough about how gracious the Truongs were. They were inviting from the beginning and embraced us through the entire transition. We are still in regular contact and it is clear that their intentions are only to help the restaurant be successful.
Most of the critical kitchen staff stayed in place and it has been wonderful to see the interaction between legacy and new employees. With modern plating and our emphasis towards dietary preferences, we also decided to professionalize the leadership of the kitchen with an experienced Chef. We believe people are a critical ingredient for any business and ensuring people are taken care of and enjoy coming to work are important to us… We wanted to be deliberate with ensuring we could back up what we are advertising in the quality of dishes being served.
Side Dish: Why change anything at all if it had a loyal clientele base? I.e. "if it ain't broke don't fix it."
Hines: To be fair, there is some truth to the concept of "change is inevitable." Our effort is in no way trying to destroy something that a local clientele enjoyed for decades. We were part of that same supportive audience for the past 13 years. But part of this opportunity is getting to introduce who we are as well. We're proud to be a minority-owned and veteran-owned local business. We hope our experience in the local restaurant scene brings confidence and credibility to quality menu offerings and community focus. Monse is a critical piece to the creativity and quality she brings with her menu input and passion for food. Our hope is the change continues to be positively received by the majority and we recognize that you just can't please everyone all the time.
Side Dish: People have griped that their favorite dishes aren't the same, and many have said they won't come back. Would you consider returning to the old recipes, or you'll move forward with the new vision?
Hines: The path to getting dishes just right is a process and takes time. We're still making updates to the menu, but we're excited to be offering a number of our new dishes. Many are based on customer feedback. For the most part, plates come back empty — and with favorable comments. We are already seeing regulars, and we try to approach every table with openness to feedback and consider everyone's input as valuable.
Socrates said: "The secret of change is to focus all of your energy not on fighting the old, but on building the new." This community is filled with fantastic people and we hope everyone who stops in enjoys their experience.
Side Dish: Can you explain more about the new menu. It seems dishes have been altered to be more health-conscious in some way that gets away from traditional Vietnamese. Is that "modern" word meant to point towards no intention to be strictly intentional? Is it fair to call this fusion, then?
Hines: We definitely don't think fusion applies. Fusion implies combining contrasting culinary traditions/techniques into a single dish. We're elevating plating styles, introducing additional Vietnamese dishes and have added a few compatible Asian dishes to increase options for allergies or gluten free choices without modifying existing plates. Like many countries, Vietnamese cuisine is also heavily influenced by it neighbors (China, Cambodia, etc.) and adding popular dishes that fit the overall focus makes sense. For example, we still offer Lo Mein (previously on the menu) but it’s traditionally a Chinese dish.
Side Dish: Anything else I didn't ask that you and Monse want to say?
Hines: Just a note of thanks for reaching out to get our story out to the public. We're excited for this next chapter in our lives and we're confident that Saigon Cafe will continue to be a local favorite. Many don't understand the challenges of being a small business and the restaurant and scene still needs help embracing the culture behind the food. We're excited for this opportunity.
Visit two:
I drop in for lunch a couple days after receiving the above answers from Hines and try to reframe my approach to a whole new blank-canvas visit. I look for the details he’s described and aim to give grace wherever possible. My reflection of my prior dinner visit is still that we weren’t wowed overall, and found little grievances with each dish — nothing so bad that I’d swear the place off like so many online commenters, but nothing so awesome that I was going to tell friends and return soon.
But here I am for my return review visit, critical glasses on. And I’m relieved to say it’s a better overall experience. We order a starter of shrimp summer rolls, a bowl of pho with raw beef, and a portobello mushroom bánh mi (which reads “vegan brisket” on the receipt).
The summer rolls are ideally light and fresh with snappy cucumber and lettuce filling alongside vermicelli noodles and shrimp slices. Nothing too hard to execute there, but it all comes together with a thick, delicious peanut sauce garnished with generous peanut crumbles.
The bánh mi firstly stars a really nice bread, crispy and flaky on the crust and nicely grill-seared inside. There’s a respectably spicy aioli and well-marinated, highly flavorful mushroom pieces with good umami. Fresh daikon and carrot gift crunch and ample cilantro adds a lot of welcome herbal influence. Simply put it’s a great, light bite and I would be interested to try the other renditions (crispy tofu, chicken, shrimp, pork and beef). My dining mate this go-around seems equally pleased by the plate.
Lastly, to the pho (which I neglected to photograph but it looks like the standards you see everywhere else): It’s pretty textbook by all standards, from fresh fixings to a thick noodle tangle swimming in an aromatic, floral bone broth. I ask for and highly recommend the spicy chili oil that’s delivered to me, which adds the heat I’m craving and makes the included jalapeño coins taste even hotter. Pho is not a dish I have a particular favorite of in town, as there’s many fine options. But I would be happy to return and eat this one anytime.
As you can see, on the whole my lunch and dinner visits were indeed night and day different. In fairness, there’s many dishes I still haven’t tried on the new Saigon Cafe menu that could perhaps paint a more accurate portrait of overall consistency. Maybe there are currently some winners and losers and likely that’s taste-dependent from customer to customer. I suspect some of the online commenters were being a bit superlative for dramatic effect, almost in a retributive way for having their favorite dish changed at all. (That’s not to entirely dismiss their valid opinions.)
For my part now, two visits and a Q&A in-hand, I’m feeling like it’s potentially still early to levy major judgement on Saigon Cafe. It’s not perfect, but it’s sincerely trying and adapting with input. I have seen Monse and Tim be strong operators with the pupuseria (especially through the pandemic) and put good intentions behind the mission at Sivar, too. (That concept is being retired for now, by the way, as they put more focus on Saigon.) I know enough to say they didn’t buy a beloved brand just to destroy it in front of the town like some kid smashing his just-opened birthday present to get a rise out of the room.
I suspect they won’t win all the old customers back, but they aren’t wrong to assume they’ll gain new ones — many with no beef over the way things used to be done. They did the community a solid simply by keeping the Saigon legacy alive and there’s surely time for them to define it for a new generation in whatever way they see fit.
In the end, it’s their prerogative. They bought the place. They don’t have to shut up and cook the recipe. But they will be wise to continue to listen to feedback, as they’ve insisted they are. Perhaps collaboratively the new Saigon Cafe can grow to be the place everyone wants it to be.
No Saigon cafe is absolutely ruined now.
I’ve been working up the gumption to go after pretty much everyone I know who has gone hadn’t had their preferred experience. But I want to give it a try to see for myself.