(Three-headed) dog days of summer
Cerberus Brewing Co. still evolving at it turns eight; what's brewing on the coffee scene these days; businesses revived and rebooted + more food & drink news
Cerberus Brewing Co. is poised to celebrate its eighth anniversary on Sept. 14 and 15 with full event programming on both days. Bands, bike rides, beer releases, brunch and bard games. (Actually that’s yard games; I just wanted to keep my alliteration going. But you can spout poetry while you sip suds if you want.) Anyway, I sat down with staff members recently to check in on what’s new since I’d last dropped by, and what the year ahead holds for the team — which includes a returned Troy Johnson as head brewer after a local brewer shuffle earlier this year.
Chef Malikei Hetherington, who came over to Cerberus in March from a prior year’s culinary service at OCC Brewing, was my primary guide through a list of lively changes. Hetherington worked at a collection of French restaurants in Portland, Ore. before moving to the Springs and has specialized in plant-based cooking in their past career. They have a new menu launching a little later in September, which will retain a few flagship, top dishes but otherwise introduce fall flavors with an emphasis on utilizing as much local product as feasible. “I want to help elevate the perception of brewpub food,” says Hetherington. “Take my French training and elevate ingredients and techniques.”
While at OCC, the chef says they forged a number of relationships with purveyors. One is Centennial Cuts, who sells sustainably-raised Colorado beef products; their retail shop is located just up the street on Colorado Avenue. “One of my goals with this new menu is high quality, integrity and sustainability, while trying to lower costs to make it more affordable,” says Hetherington. And to balance the carnivorous offerings, they’re leaning on their vegan know-how to work several vegetarian and vegan items into the mix and make other dishes customizable.
For instance anything like the bánh mi sandwich (yes, it’s returning to the menu) that gets pork belly, Hetherington’s “secret marinade” maple syrup smoked tofu can be subbed instead. “That tofu gets fried to a crispy exterior,” they say, “but it’s soft inside and smoky and sweet and peppery; simple but complex. It’s gone over insanely well so far as a special.” Cerberus’ smoked brisket grilled cheese has long been its go-for item, updated and refocused last year at this time by original Cerberus Chef Mark LeFebvre. But Hetherington is looking to apply the popular brewpub barbecue technique to non-meat items too, “so that anyone can walk in the door and order something for them.”
Something the chef says they’re particularly excited for is the launch of monthly, prix fixe beer dinners, kicking off September 12 with a five-course dinner to celebrate Colorado’s harvest season. Hetherington teases a Colorado harvest sour and a special pumpkin beer from Johnson as just two pairings. From their food inspirations they cite a smoked quail entrée, troutcakes with sourdough fry bread and wojapi (a Native American berry sauce; Hetherington has part Native heritage) and, well … the whole menu hasn’t been posted yet so I don’t want to steal their thunder. Keep an eye on that event page for upcoming details. “I like to have a theme or story with my dinners,” they say, teasing a planned all-vegan dinner in November, with the monthly events running through Valentine’s Day as the current plan.
Some other things to look out for now and soon at Cerberus:
• An updated weekend brunch menu with weekly French toast specials by culinary team member Haleigh Mulkey.
• Raise Hell for a Reason nights weekly at neighboring sister outfit Seven’s Gate. (Keep an eye out for a big community fundraising event to be announced for Sept. 18.)
• Oktoberfest celebrations, Sept. 28.
• And of course, a final reminder for Sept. 14-15’s 8th Anniversary Extravaganza. (I didn’t even mention the beer pong tournament at Seven’s Gate.)
Local chefs spotlight with Ranch Foods Direct
Though you can make this beef bulgogi recipe from chef Supansa Banker of Chef’s Roots anytime, this is the last week I’m promoting it for our top sirloin Schnip’s Pick cut-of-the-month with Ranch Foods Direct. Next week expect a special recipe from another talented local chef, one who’s recently brought another level of Hispanic fine dining to downtown. (That’s your hint.) Meanwhile, I want to direct you to Ranch Foods Direct’s monthly Food for Thought newsletter, which I recommend signing up for. This past month, they co-featured Banker’s bulgogi recipe and also highlighted two Q&A’s with local chefs. One is Josh Kelly, currently lead mentor for Opus Culinary Program. The other is Side Dish’s July guest chef, Dustin Archuleta of Choice Restaurant Concepts. Here’s one of Archuleta’s answers:
What do you wish more people knew about local food? That local food is easier than people think. They tend to think it’s very difficult, and they have to shop at the farmers market. But places like Ranch Foods Direct and Bread and Butter Neighborhood Market downtown make it much more accessible to anybody daunted by the idea of shopping locally. It’s a supermarket format, whereas keeping up with the farmers markets can be a little intimidating to some people.
Meanwhile on the coffee scene:
• Daily Coffee News reported earlier this week that Switchback Coffee Roasters filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy on Aug. 19, citing some specifics of the financial figures involved in the matter, but failing to obtain the whole story on account of not reaching Switchback owner Brandon DelGrosso for comment before publishing. DelGrosso returned my call this week to offer some clarification on the matter. Firstly, it’s just the Shooks Run cafe LLC that filed, not the Hillside nor roastery or company as a whole. DelGrosso says the cash flow at that nearly 10-year-old location is generally good but “not enough to overcome the debt load” as it stands now. He mentions the toll of inflation, saying they were down 13 percent at both cafes last year and 7-8 percent thus far this year. “Filing for bankruptcy allows us to restructure the debt and keep going, to keep me doing what I love to do,” he says. “Business protection is a tool to keep a business going, and that’s what we’re doing.” Both locations remain open for business, so stop by if you want to help turn the tables on the revenue declines and give the business a community boost.
• Humble Coffee sent an email out to its subscribers on Aug. 25 announcing they would be closing their drive-thru location at 2103 Templeton Gap Road that same day, “due to some sudden events and compounding circumstances.” They noted: “We are looking at an opportunity to open a small café right here at the TGap Marketplace across the parking lot.” Meanwhile, they’ve launched a GoFundMe seeking help for that relocation. On that page, they elaborate that: “Our roaster broke down, which we haven’t been able to replace, the ceiling collapsed, the electricity went out and the lights decided to go poof! So, our poor building is on the struggle bus, but it’s okay, it just needs some love and elbow grease.” Donations will go toward tackling that work. Humble’s other locations (at Barnes and Oro Blanco, and 80 S. Cascade Ave. inside the Antler’s Building) remain open.
• Golden Pine Coffee Roasters (roasting arm of former R&R Coffee Café) is now setting up from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursdays outside The Sourdough Boulangerie. GPCR Roaster/Owner Ryan Wanner says he’s getting closer to opening a coffee bar at his long-awaited, new roastery location at 12470 Black Forest Road. It will open under the GPCR banner and Wanner says he’s retiring R&R’s brand “for the foreseeable future.” He says he doesn’t want to confuse past fans who might expect him to offer breakfast plates and house-baked pastries like before. “The new space is a fifth of the size of the former R&R, so no room for anything but coffee,” he says.
Bites & Bits
• On Aug. 10, Omi’s Alpenrose German Deli posted to say that after 70 years in business in Security-Widefield they were beginning to limit hours and looking to permanently close after the holiday season this year. Then, thanks to overwhelming community support in response, they posted again on Aug. 19 to share a screenshot of their page’s strong performance metrics, saying in-part: “If we keep up at this rate we will be able to go back to our regular hours in September. I ended last week in tears thinking this would be the last year we would have my Omi's store. This week I am crying happy tears and my heart is bursting with gratitude for everything this community has done to try to keep our little store alive! You all are amazing!”
• The episode of America’s Best Restaurants featuring The Warehouse premiered Aug. 29. “Every dish was a masterpiece,” said show host J Russell.
• What was formerly called Notes Live at 13141 Bass Pro Drive has been renamed Notes Eatery, but is still owned by J.W. Roth, who’s behind Boot Barn Hall, Bourbon Brothers Smokehouse, Ford Amphitheater the new CS Indy. The refreshed venue now offers breakfast items all day, daily, in addition to a lunch and dinner menu, with regular hours from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Jazz brunches run 7 a.m. to noon, weekends; and the eatery serves until midnight following concerts at the amphitheater. In addition to extended menu items, Notes now offers buy-one-get-one-free breakfast drinks (all day) like mimosas and Bloody Marys. (Side note: In examining the menu against my own musical preferences, I have to say please keep the Phish & Chips away from me. Yes, music-reference puns abound. 🤦🏻)
• Much of the hubbub around the new Ford Amphitheater relates to ongoing noise complaints, as this fresh Colorado Public Radio segment outlines. But the Gazette found a different angle into a story last weekend, which is 7 Colorado local dining options offered at the Ford Amphitheater, including outfits like Scratch Mobile Kitchen Food Truck and The Original Dr. Taco food truck. (As a colleague pointed out to me, the Gazette’s owner Philip Anschutz also benefits from the amphitheater’s ticket sales as its ticket vendor, AXS.)
• In last week’s news briefs, I acknowledged the recent Colorado Sun article regarding top Denver chef/restaurateurs looking to leave the market. A little over a week later, The Denver Post spoke with Walter Isenberg, who told them “well intentioned legislation has crated a hostile economic environment for small businesses.”
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• The Carter Payne: Our final brunch and service as a restaurant is Sept. 1. Come say farewell in style. But keep an eye on our events page for lots of upcoming special dinners and the like, such as Sept. 4’s Whiskey Church with Distillery 291 and the Colorado Spirits Collective and Sept. 14’s Local Relic Monthly Bottle Release Party.
• Ascent Beverage: Join us at Frontline Social Club, 6-9 p.m., Aug. 31 for a tasting with and presentation by 3 Hundred Days of Shine’s founder/distiller Mike Girard. There’ll be special barrel-pick selections, featured cocktails and 3D’s Cigars.
• Four by Brother Luck: Discover the passion of our Head of Pastry, Chef Marjorie.
• Edelweiss: We just released our seasonal plum cake, called Pflaumen Kuchen in Germany. It’s $7.50 a slice and we anticipate running it only through September, so come see us soon! (You know we’re famous for our desserts, right?)
• Bristol Brewing Company: Saturday night cinema starts at 8 p.m., Aug. 31 in the Bristol Schoolyard. This week: The Emperor's New Groove. BYO chair. Come for a pint and loaded fries from Spark BBQ. Also: Trivia, 6:30 p.m., Sept. 4; winners get prizes!
• bird tree cafe: You have to try our lavender-rosemary-butterfly pea flower Blue Lagoon Latte.
• Kangaroo Coffee: Our 6-month-old Trinidad spot at The Marketplace is featured this week in Side Dish’s Schnip’s Trip to Trinidad. Also, two words: cold foam.
• Red Gravy: Three reasons to see us next week: #1 Meatballs Monday, #2 Happy Hour (4-6 p.m., weekdays), #3 Wine Wednesday (half off all bottles).
• Goat Patch Brewing: Summer Music Series with Tiny Pockets, 6-8 p.m., Sept. 1. Bleating Heart Night, 5-9 p.m., Sept. 3. benefs Fountain Creek Watershed District.
• Allusion Speakeasy: Guess what theme we just launched on Aug. 29? Two hints:
• The French Kitchen: You have only until Labor Day to come in for our French Hot Dogs (the feature item at our Sip with Schnip recently). Also, get your Paris Chocolate Muffins before Sept. 7. And our class calendar now extends into the first half of 2025.
• Blue Star Group: Gold Star Bakery has Baker’s Dozen Boxes of cookies and bars, perfect for Labor Day barbecues and parties. End summer on a sweet note! Order here.
• Odyssey Gastropub: We will be serving an extra day of brunch and bottomless mimosas on Labor Day, Sept. 2, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Join us!
• Rasta Pasta: Bananas and grapes in pasta? Don't knock it til you've tried it.
• Things you can do to support Side Dish: Follow Side Dish on Facebook. And Instagram. Subscribe to the tap&table YouTube channel. And/or follow on Apple, Spotify and other major podcast platforms. Invite foodie friends to subscribe free!
Upcoming events
• Aug. 29-31: FO4R North celebrates its first anniversary across its eateries with live music performances as well as a number of food and drink specials.
• Sept. 6 Popsicle Promenade during downtown’s First Friday. 5-8 p.m. Visit 11 spots to enjoy treats and be entered to win prizes.
• Sept. 7: COATI’s 4th Birthday Party. Noon to 11:50 p.m. Featuring a Taste of COATI tasting and a silent disco.
• Sept. 8: Fiddles, Vittles and Vino at Rock Ledge Ranch. 2:30 p.m. to late. Sample from a variety of local vendors and enjoy beers, wines and spirit pours alongside live music performances. $65 tickets benefit the historic ranch. Organizers are saying this will be the popular event’s final year, so don’t miss out.
• Sept. 13: Sober Soiree at the Meanwhile Block. 6-10 p.m., $100 tickets benefit Homeward Pikes Peak. Samples, chefs, mixologists, live music.
• Sept. 13: Mustard’s Mystery Dinner at Colonel Mustard’s Sandwich Emporium. 6 p.m.; $40/person or $75/couple. Call for resos.
• Sept. 14: Pawtoberfest Beer + Spirit Fest at Printers Hill. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Featuring boozy samplings and food trucks plus pet contests and family activities, with proceeds benefitting the Humane Society of the Pikes Peak Region.
• Sept. 14 and 15: Fiestas Patrias in downtown Colorado Springs.
• Sept. 14: Third annual Best of the West Wing Fest at the Western Museum of Mining & Industry. 1-6 p.m. $40-$80.
Parting shot(s)
Pasta in the Park
Congrats to the winners at this year’s Pasta in the Park fundraiser for TESSA. (You can donate anytime.) I co-judged again, with Chef de Cuisine at Ephemera Nora Dillon, KKTV meteorologist Sydney Jackson and 4th Judicial District Attorney Michael Allen. Our judges’ choice winners were: First Place to ENT and their chef Rosalie Cunningham and her team, who made a Golden Garlic Saffron Cream Sauce with Italian sausage, peppered bacon, and fresh herbs and spices. (Outstanding with a pinot noir, FWIW.) Second Place to KKTV and Third Place to the Gazette.
Margarita at PineCreek
As I noted in a previous newsletter, it’s the Margarita at Pine Creek’s 50th anniversary this year, and they’re still rocking their daily-changing, 3-4 course prix fixe menu and celebrated Sunday brunch service. Of course there’s still ample live music on site and the summer farmers markets. In other words: Business as usual. Translation: Business as excellent. We were grateful to attend a private gathering this past weekend to celebrate the 50th with the crew and its longtime supporters. I snapped some pics to commemorate the occasion in my own way:
