Return to roots
Return to roots
The Carter Payne readies for rebirth as an events center; mini reviews of several spots; that trending chocolate muffin from the Olympics (is here) + more food & drink news
Around a decade ago, I remember attending an unusual beer dinner in a local nonprofit’s makeshift banquet room. It was unlike the average, beverage-paired special meals seen elsewhere around town in that it was less formal and scrappier in an underdog way.
I was thinking: who are these kids, making their own beer, plating gourmet courses and working the room with the grace of seasoned service professionals?
Turns out I was just getting to know Jeff Zearfoss and Melissa Howard, who were operating a social enterprise company named Common Cause Catering. They were both sommeliers and cicerones. She had an MBA and business background while he had been managing high-end resort restaurants and volunteering with key community organizations like the Marian House Soup Kitchen. Between them, they had culinary acumen, but tapped Chef Corey Hoff to help move their offerings into a fine dining realm. And they recruited their friend Grant Goodwiler to bring his brewing prowess to the game.
Local Relic Artisan Ales was born a year later, going against the grain of typical breweries. It offered no flagship brews and vowed to never brew the same beer twice. While there’s an allowance to revisit and add a new touch to a prior brew, that credo has led to the creation of almost 1700 unique beers in the last nine years. “Everyone thought we were nuts, but we set a standard,” says Jeff. “We didn’t follow the cookie cutter brewery model, and we proved you don’t have to make the same beer over and over again.” Roughly 500 members of Local Relic’s monthly beer program over the years also demonstrated community buy-in, almost like a CSA for farmers.
A couple years after the brewery’s launch, in 2017, Jeff and Melissa bought The Carter Payne, a historic, former AME Church. It had already been converted into an events center by a former occupant, but they turned it into a community space and taproom for Local Relic.
Subsequent years saw experimental additions of popup food kiosks by Chef Brent Beavers, who eventually came on to be a partner (while Hoff had taken off much earlier and Goodwiler left during the pandemic). Dedicated wine and cocktail bars were constructed to join the beer taps. The Carter Payne effectively became a restaurant inside of an old church — much like Ivywild is a food hall inside an old elementary school — while event bookings continued in a basement-level banquet space mostly. The mission shifted and the scope expanded, still anchored to Melissa and Jeff’s early vision for a community-forward enterprise, but largely focusing on the day-to-day service required of an eatery and drink house.
That’s changing as of Sept. 1, when after the Sunday brunch shift, The Carter Payne will cease restaurant and taproom service and refocus itself as an events center, with a time-tested brewery concept on the side to both fuel its own events — allowing wedding clients to create their own beer, for example — and generate sales elsewhere through new distribution channels.
“We are returning to our home, our roots,” the team wrote in their public announcement last week, calling the transition a rebirth.
“It’s hard to be creative and intentional under the restaurant model,” Jeff tells me at a later meeting. “We struggle getting to do the things we want to do because of the regular grind. When we did catering I hated hauling stuff everywhere, but I loved the people, and creating joy with them. This idea of going back to our roots makes me happy.”
That public announcement also called the return to an events space a “necessary” pivot, acknowledging that the overall financial picture did factor into their decision. When I sat down with Jeff, Melissa and Brent (Side Dish Dozen members and a former employer of mine in Brent’s case), they were transparent in saying they would regularly need to be doing at least double their average nightly covers (in recent months) to stay on sustainable footing for the future. They cited the same factors that have led other local eateries to shutter recently, including high restaurant inflation and labor costs.
To put things bluntly, the restaurant arm was starting to put the whole venture at risk, so it appeared the most logical step forward to preserve The Carter Payne was to focus on the better margins of event bookings, plus sporadic beer and theme dinners to sell seats prix fixe.
Not only will this cut down on his food waste, says Brent — though they have been composting and giving their spent brewery grains to a pig farmer — but he’ll be able to order even more with intention toward seasonality and supporting local producers.
Mellisa adds that “this pivot allows us to flex our strongest muscles, creativity and thoughtfulness.” She points out how well suited to the building special events and celebrations are, and they consider themselves one of the most affordable options in town without compromising quality. “I’m not saying ‘we’re the cheap option,’ adds Jeff. “But we believe we are the most unique, creative and customizable. We design our events for you, around who you are and what you want to achieve. Be that a business meeting, hail-and-farewell, nonprofit fundraiser, wedding or whatever.”
And rather than having limited banquet menu options of common event food, Brent says he’s happy to work with clients to make whatever they wish to serve, from scratch with an encouragement to use what local products are available. “We can work within most any budget and figure it out together,” he says, noting he can hit better margins at scale while remaining price sensitive.
Letting go of the restaurant arm is not emotionally easy on anyone who’s a part of the business, and the staff who’ll have to seek work elsewhere to replace full paychecks are especially hard-hit. But the owners are trying to put their best foot forward and focus on the excitement of the transition. They don’t view the retirement of the restaurant component as a failure, as it has helped develop the space to the shape it’s in today. And they look back on many components they’ll always be proud of: job training for entry-level workers; jobs for some people post-incarceration and refugees; creating transparent and equitable pay between front and back of the house; incubation space for performing arts groups; non-commissioned wall display of artworks from hundreds of artists over the years; promotion of hundreds of other emerging artists (and regular patrons) via their beer label art program; and working within and around the community in various other capacities. “For a lot of artists we worked with, this was their first show,” says Jeff, noting that it can be a stepstone to a larger gallery display by way of resumé building.
And all along, the ownership has maintained an eye toward acting in a socially conscious manner. They’re also proud of the many hundreds of unique, interesting and often outstanding beers their team has brewed, plus the mindfully made, intentionally sourced and roundly excellent food they’ve put out. These elements aren’t going away with the pivot, they’ll just be highlighted in different ways.
Getting back to the creativity Melissa spoke of, they aim to curate more monthly events that will remain open to the community just as regular restaurant service was. In other words, you won’t have to wait to be invited to a wedding to enjoy the space. In addition to their membership beer-release nights, they’re planning beer dinners and theme dinners, such as a special Harvest Celebration on Sept. 21. Most of those were formerly hosted on non-restaurant-service nights, but now they can take place on a Friday or Saturday when their regulars are used to coming in for dinner. While some will be multi-course fancy and pricier, Brent says he wants to incorporate more approachable options such as a three-course Puerto Rican dinner somewhere in the $35 per person range, as just one example. But they’re kicking around other ideas already, like dinner theater or possibly trying to team up with their pals at Hillside Gardens for something like a pre-party, small patio concert the night prior to Hillside’s wildly popular summer music series.
As Jeff had told me for last week’s newsletter, “our passion is creating spectacular and memorable events.”
When I sit back down with him later, he reiterates that, saying “when I think of all the amazing things we’ve done, it shows what we’re capable of — for all the cool things we’re going to do moving forward.”
Plus, says Melissa, “we’re a building that’s really well suited for events, that’s been a part of special gatherings and celebrations for 128 years.” With that in mind, they feel like they’re truly coming full circle to where they began. Again, the concept of rebirth, momentarily painful as it may be. Still scrappy and marching to their own beat, as I remember meeting them.
“This is the best path forward,” she says. “We made a commitment to be good stewards of this space when we bought it. Going back to our roots keeps this beautiful old church from being torn down to make way for the next apartment block.”
Join us for our homecoming Sip with Schnip — Aug. 15
Join us for a special Sip with Schnip that’s equal part homecoming (The Carter Payne was the original launch base of this monthly meetup) and celebration (as TCP rocks out in its final month as a restaurant and taproom). We’re throwing down with Fountain’s Frost Livestock. Expect a mini farmers market and Frost ingredients featured on the menu, to include lamb and beef burgers and vegetables. Local Relic will sling their beers and TCP will mix up a fun selection of Ranch Water cocktails.
Bank(er) on it: Beef Bulgogi with Ranch Foods Direct
Our Schnip’s Pick cut-of-the-month at Ranch Foods Direct is Callicrate top sirloin, featured in this outstanding beef bulgogi recipe. It’s courtesy our guest chef Supansa Banker of personal chef and catering business Chef’s Roots. She’s made it super easy to execute, with options for an hour-long or overnight marinade. Just click on the image link and you’ll be directed to a short grocery list that includes the top sirloin and RFD beef tallow for pan-searing the meat. Make sure to mention Side Dish when you’re in the retail market for 5% off your whole shopping cart.
Out and about
I’m often eating and drinking more things around town than I end up writing about in Side Dish. Sometimes that’s in pursuit of trying to have a personal life (which I suck at), and other times it’s things I happen upon or intentionally scope out for consideration for coverage. In knowing that I can’t possibly do it all, I try to get better at curating. Some things are just better for social media as quick hits.
Anyway, this week I just wanted to share some photos and brief impressions, partially in service of clearing off my desktop if I’m honest (hello OCD, my old friend). But hey — every business shout-out is a lead for your next meal or drink out, potentially. To say the obvious, I know these impressions are quite limited in scope, and not attempting to be full critiques or reviews of spots. Here goes:
• I finally made a long-overdue visit to Colonel Mustard’s Sandwich Emporium to try the mustard ice cream. My former colleague at the Indy had done our initial writeup years ago (which is mostly how I personally missed some stuff that I made sure was at least globally covered in our food section, as its editor). I remedied the blind spot during Colonel Mustard’s fourth anniversary celebration this past weekend. Taking co-owner Mark Jakusovsky’s advice, I dipped the provided pretzels (included with a cup for $5 total) in the mustard-yellow ice cream (creative adjective here, I know) to sample. The salt pops the sweet and the true mustard essence complements the breadiness; it’s as simple as that. The surprise is that it’s pretty damn good. It’s not stunt food that’s amusing to laugh at but you’d never eat it again. In fact, Jakusovsky says guests kept requesting it after he and co-owner Karrie Williams initially made a batch “as a joke” for a fundraiser.
• When I was at Side Dish Dozen member Goat Patch Brewing’s recent seventh anniversary party, These Girls Got Beef were serving. I’ve consistently heard good things about them (again, from said former colleague who ate). And they’ve certainly benefitted from The Bear’s popularity as one of The It shows of the moment. Why? Because they serve the Chicago-style Italian Beef Sandwich that was celebrated (agonized over) in season one. Not the exact one, of course, but their own authentic take. Get a half sandwich for $9 and you’ll be plenty stuffed. The notably thin-sliced, tender meat is a textural treat with lots of flavor, even ordered dry. But you can also order it wet or dipped (if you don’t mind wet bread, which is off-putting to some) and you get a choice of hot or mild giardiniera; mozzarella cheese can be added too. I go for the hot peppers, no cheese, and really dig the overall bite. The appeal is obvious. You can find TGGB regularly at Storybook Brewing and also they’ve taken over the kitchen at Vultures, 4-9 p.m., nightly.
• Aloha Hawaiian BBQ & Ramen opened five months ago in the former 2000 Wok space at 115 E. Fillmore St. I stop in with a buddy for lunch on the way back from a supply run to Lowe’s for a house project I’m desperately trying to fit into my work life. We’re both shopped out and suddenly hungry as hell. Aloha indeed. The sign on the door promotes no MSG. Everything’s plated in to-go ware, even if dining on site, so expect plastic cutlery and a plastic container. Reggae’s playing. Aside from the brick-colored tile floor and light stone service counter, everything’s black and white, including our vinyl seats. We order a couple pick-two plates, which include two protein choices, rice and a simple shredded iceberg salad with cucumber slices, for a very reasonable $12.59 considering the sizable portions. It’s a value, and we’re happy for the quality at the price. The fried white fish holds a nice, crisp panko breading and tastes good with a tartar or Thousand Island-like Aloha sauce. The barbecue beef and chicken are both totally proficient and well seasoned, with sweet teriyaki sauce on the side if you want to head that direction. The Aloha Fire Chicken with tender, skinless breast strips doesn’t really bring the heat but it has a good spice profile that seems to include some coriander and smoked paprika in a blend they marinate in. That comes through in the slightly granular texture of a bite. We’ll have to go back for the ramen.
• Since Mausam arrived in early April Indian food in the Springs has a new standard of excellence. (Turns out a Michelin awarded chef does make a difference. Who knew?) When I finally dined in late May I was able to confirm all the high praise and hype about the spot. I got another chance to return and take some visiting friends a few weeks ago, and once again I just didn’t feel like climbing too far in my critic brain — I just wanted to enjoy it. (I know that’s odd, given that I usually want to get flowery about the really good meals I eat. Maybe this is some expression of transcendence.) We ordered a spread to share: Papadi Chaat, Royal Corn Tikki and papadam chutney platter appetizers. Butter naan, a rose lassi and lime soda. Then the Goan Fish Curry, Malai Kofta, and Veg. High Protein Biryani for a mostly vegetarian meal. You can view descriptions on the menu, but what you read still sounds vague, like “crispy corn patties with a royal touch.” You just have to see what arrives, and often be surprised, in a good way.
Mausam is almost completely unique to other menus in town. And each dish mesmerizes in its own way. I have chef friends already obsessed with the place. It’s just so fucking good. Don’t know how else to say it. Virtually nothing misses a beat with everything we eat and drink, save for unremarkable naan bread. Strangely, the one bumpy point we encounter is with service; and I’ve heard this from others. We’re going to be a four top, and we arrive earlier than our two guests. We’re seated and left with menus and water, but nobody checks back with us for roughly 20 minutes while we await our friends, who we learn were delayed by a kid thing. Point being we would have ordered drinks and likely a first appetizer and in no fine dining atmosphere with a chef with an M before his/her name would guests be ignored so long waiting for a joiner. I literally had to flag someone down finally, which is embarrassing to me as it feels uncouth. I damn well know I’ll be going back, regardless. Perhaps someday I’ll be ready to try and figure out just how and why this Indian food is so much more complex — what spices and techniques inform that. Until then I’m enjoying the mystery through ignorant bliss.
• Lastly, some other savvy food/drink buds were in town and I made it a point to check out two-month old Nomads in the former spot of The Garden — which had turned into Colorful Colorado as a popup concept last summer. That was via Atlas Restaurant Group’s Aaron Ewton, who’s also behind COATI food hall and who’s still the landlord here effectively. But as you can read in last week’s Springs Magazine, he’s tapped a a couple guys from New Jersey to bring their own concept in, which in short boils down to a backyard barbecue at a bartender’s house. We fully expected to like the place and the cocktails read rather interesting on the menu. But ours are all out of balance or just fundamentally flawed.
The Chimi Gimi looks savory, described well by Springs Mag as “a gimlet built with an Argentinian gin (Principe de los Apostles), a chimichurri shrub, a vinegar based syrup, fresh oregano, parsley, coriander seed, a bit of sherry vinegar and extra fresh lime juice,” garnished with olive oil drops. Ours is sharp and vinegary; tasting notes include “edge of a pickle jar” from one pal.
Next, the Meester Cole Old Fashioned sports whiskey, guajillo, pineapple and bacon. We’re expecting sweet heat with perhaps a rich fat wash and the fruit’s zing. It leads with a musty, wet dog nose from chicharron garnish. I rhyme “zero guajillo” and my other pal likens the finish flavors to orange Tang and party punch as there’s a pungent citrusy finish and the whiskey’s mostly muted.
Come on, Taylor the Latte Boy, bring some redemption. How could bourbon, chicory, macadamia nut, coconut and smoked sea salt not be great, for $16? The words have me hooked; I’m in. But what arrives mainly tastes like Kahlúa (Mr. Black Coffee Liqueur, actually, we’re told) and is sticky sweet, leaving a coating on our teeth that my friend likens to Carnauba wax on gummies. The chef friend sips and responds with “puréed Twinkie and sweet cream.” Much of the salt has stayed behind in the small side ramekin the milk components arrived in for self topping the spirits. We’re honest when asked how we like the drink, and then brought a new side sipper of the batched cocktail base, which our bartender cops to not remembering to shake well before making this drink; it alone tastes more balanced, but by now we can’t get over the existing cloying mouthfeel.
Much as other drinks read alluring, for me it’s already a three strikes you’re out. I’d likely order a tap beer or neat sipper were I to return.
Bites & Bits
• A Fresh Move neighborhood grocery store in Security-Widefield, following a community meeting earlier this week, has announced temporary, limited hours in an attempt to keep its door open. Go shop to support its locally minded efforts.
• The Burrowing Owl has launched a line of grab-and-go vegan and GF dips under the name Golden Root Cos. Items like cashew queso and deviled hummus are now available at Bread & Butter Neighborhood Market.
• Five breweries — Phantom Canyon, Bell Brothers, Brass, Mash Mechanix and Local Relic — have teamed up during the month of August to offer a free Neighborhood Brew Passport. Patrons are encourage to try a featured fruited beer at each tap house, get stamped, and head to Phantom from 4-8, Aug. 30 for a special passport party to potentially win prizes.
• Hillside Gardens has created a wine club, with monthly selections by expert local sommelier Michael “Bucky” Buckelew. (To be clear, not the other Buc-ee.) There’s two tiers available ($46/month standard or $76/month premium — each runs six months), which each get you two bottles a month of “rare and remarkable finds that you won’t encounter at your local shop,” says the venue. (Also catch great food/drink vending, including Bucky’s wines, at weekly Wednesday night summer concerts at Hillside.)
• Springs Magazine did a People’s Choice poll on best pizza spots in town and listed a three-way tie for eighth place and a four-way tie for 13th place. (See how I buried the lead, there? Tee-hee.)
• Grand View at Garden of the Gods Resort & Club has created a new dry bar menu of N/A drinks that dovetails well with the wellness components offered on property.
• The industry lost a good friend and loyal patron earlier this week, who was the victim of a violent crime. I’ve spoken to a number of bartenders close to Dieter Grayfield, who have only the most gracious and kind things to say about him. I was told he participated in the amateur bartending competition at Ultra Flat Black, and The Archive’s Shayne Baldwin wrote a short tribute on a social media to his friend, associating words with him: “character, strength, love, family, empathy, humor, honor and honesty.” You can donate here to Support Dieter’s Family in Their Time of Need.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• The Carter Payne: Book early for our Harvest Dinner on Sept. 21. September is peak season for all things local. Chef Brent will create a five course menu featuring the bounty of the local harvest.
• The French Kitchen: You’ve heard about the famous ganache-filled chocolate muffin made viral by a Norwegian swimmer at the Paris Olympic Village. Well, TFK made their our own version, a limited-time special Paris Chocolate Muffin. Through Aug. 14 only, come in for a fresh muffin at the bakery or take a frozen box of six home (where 25 seconds in the microwaves makes the core all melty and divine).
• Bristol Brewing Company: Grab the gang (and a round of beers) and get ready for hump-day trivia every Wednesday night at 6:30 in the Pub.
• District Elleven: Our Third Wednesday monthly Tequila Tasting Series continues at 6 p.m., Aug. 21 with Tequila Arette. $25 gets you a 1-ounce pour from three tequila varietals plus snack bites from Chef Dustin Archuleta.
• Blue Star Group: The Summer Games at Ivywild! Head to The Gym at Ivywild School from 5:30-9:30 p.m., Aug. 10 to watch the team finals, and from noon to 4 p.m., Aug. 11 for the closing ceremonies. Grab a pizza or empanadas from Decent Pizza, a burger or pretzel bites from Ivywild Kitchen, a sweet treat from Gold Star Bakery and a cocktail from the Principal's Office. Also play Blue Star Group Five Card Draw — collect all five cards by Sunday to win!
• Edelweiss: Have you tried our Stiegl Grapefruit Radler from Austria? It’s clean, crisp and only 2-percent ABV for a refreshing low-alcohol option made with real cane sugar. Sip a pint on our expansive dog-friendly patio.
• Red Gravy: Let us do the cooking for your next gathering of family or friends. Our Family Meal feeds 4-6 people. Choose a salad and a pasta. Have more people? You can buy as many as you need and offer different options. And we deliver via Door Dash!
• Wobbly Olive: Half-priced cocktails from our full menu during happy hours, 4-6 p.m., Mondays through Fridays, at both locations. Pair a drink with our Bang Bang Calamari app or Nashville hot chicken and (crispy hash brown) waffles.
• Ascent Beverage: Head to Edelweiss for their gin-basil cocktail made with Absaroka aged gin.
• Kangaroo Coffee: We're having a community BBQ with our neighbors on Saturday August 17 at our Hillside Coffee House location. Everyone is welcome! Come hang out, enjoy food and drinks, learn about local organizations, and if you haven't already done so, check out our expanded digs. Then take a stroll around Prospect Lake!
• Goat Patch Brewing: Baby Goat Yoga, Aug. 10, three sessions between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. Second Saturday Firkin release, Aug. 10: Calamansi Pale Ale with Coriander. Trivia, 6:30-8:30 p.m., Aug. 14. Therapeutic Thursdays Adult Coloring Night, 6-8 p.m., Aug. 15.
• Eleven18: Come for Pan de Tomate at happy hour, 4-5:30 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday. Garlic toast with slow-roasted tomatoes, whipped goat cheese and spicy tomato jam.
• Rasta Pasta: Start with our garlic bread — six pieces with your choice of dipping sauce (marinara, rosé sauce or Caribbean Curry sauce) for $7-$8. Our “munchies” menu also features vegan, gluten-free Island Chips & Salsa.
• Odyssey Gastropub: We are one of 23 restaurants participating in the Downtown International Food Tour. Come for our Chicken & Waffles and Pioneer Burger.
Upcoming events
• Aug. 10: Grand opening of After Dusk at Salad or Bust. 5 p.m. onward.
• Aug. 13: Raise Hell For a Reason Charity Pint Night at Cerberus Brewing Co. Every Tuesday from 4-7 p.m. $1 from each draft goes to the weekly nonprofit featured; this week it’s Karl’s Canine Krew.
• Aug. 15: Sip with Schnip with Local Relic and Frost Ranch at The Carter Payne.
• Aug. 15: 22nd annual Taste of Douglas County at Castle Rock’s Douglas County Fairgrounds. 5-8 p.m. $10 in advance/$20 at the door.
• Aug. 17: Manitou Springs Heritage Brew Festival in Memorial Park. Noon to 5 p.m. Tastings from 20-plus breweries plus live music and yard games. $10-$55 tickets.
• Aug. 22: Meet The Maker at The Broadmoor's Ristorante Del Lago, with Matt Ray, Mixologist & Experience Team Leader for Buffalo Trace Distillery Bourbons. 2 pm.; $100 includes Buffalo Trace and Wheatley cocktails samplings with small bites served.
Early warnings: Revel: The Urban Arts Party, Sept. 7. Fiddles, Vittles and Vino, Sept. 8. Sober Soiree, Sept. 13.
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Parting shot(s)
Good night, sweet mustache.
At the Andrew’s Last Word going-away celebration this past weekend in District Elleven, bartender Andrew Alverson upheld his end of the bargain and allowed himself to be sheared like a sheep. (Well, just his face, not whole body. Ahem.) Tickets were raffled, at least, so he walked away with some pocket cash for his troubles (something like 450 bones I heard; hmmm, maybe I should try this stunt someday 🤔). Fellow mixologists and chefs were in attendance, as well as District Elleven regulars who wished to pay their respects. You might still see him around town, just not behind the bar, as he moves toward the insurance world. Best of luck, bald face!
Well written- why not ; Schniper is an excellent writer.
Thank you for keeping me in the loop! Give Armchair Expert - Anonymous a listen this week, Cooking Disasters. Maggots, Kitchen fires and Eleven Madison Park.